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Epitaph, 5.9+

 
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Epitaph, 5.9+
3rd Pitch- 45m- 5.9+/ This pitch could easily be graded 5.10. It involves a sustained fist crack up to the roof. Directly off the hanging belay, place a C4 #5 in the wide flake and traverse left into the corner. It starts out C4 #4 and gives up #3’s intermittently. If I led this pitch again, I would take at least four of each and save one 3 for the traverse and one 4 for the roof pull itself, otherwise place most of them in the wide crack up to the roof. When traversing the roof, the crack allows you to place a few medium sized pieces. Every placement must be well extended to avoid extreme rope pull when pulling the roof and continuing for another 30’ to a fixed belay. Otherwise you will have to set up a hanging belay at the end of the roof on one piece (#4).
Epitaph, 5.9+, 3 Pitches, Flying Buttress, Sedona, AZ, 2012

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rpcamazing!

rpc

Voted 10/10

don't think I even knew of this climb before Dow...& this photo just makes me drool. Wild!!
Posted Oct 11, 2012 3:52 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: amazing!

Dow Williams

Hasn't voted

I know Sedona can be a bit sandbagged once in a while and I thought this pitch was full on for the grade (harder than anything I led on Earth Angel and I led all the pitches on both)...the funny thing is that on MP...they talk about the first 2 pitches...I thought both of those were pretty laid back...so just meandering into this last pitch...half way up... C4 #3 and #4 crack to the roof, I was breathing heavy. It is a wicked pitch and a must do! Stacy and I are going to try and do Scenic Cruise on Sat if it does not rain too much...your beta already printed out as always...you two make everything look fun...cheers Radek
Posted Oct 11, 2012 4:23 pm

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Image Data
Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Oct 10, 2012 11:35 am

Image ID: 819144
Hits: 319 
Object Title: Epitaph, 5.9+

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing