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Epitaph & vicinity

 
Epitaph & vicinity

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.36000°N / 117.88°W

Object Title: Epitaph & vicinity

Route Type: Sport climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.8 - 5.11b/c - ??

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Steve Larson

Created/Edited: Jul 14, 2005 / Jul 15, 2005

Object ID: 165846

Hits: 1907 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


From the intersection of the stream and the approach trail (see "Getting There" on the main Williamson page), head up and right over scree and slabs for several hundred feet until it is possible to head more or less straight up (west). Surmount a couple of steps until reaching a ledge at the base of a large east-facing wall. This is Epitaph.

Facing the wall, there will be a tall, north-facing, pillar-like formation (the “Gateway”) just a few yards to your left, and a much shorter, broad pinnacle to your right. This is Ramblin’ Wall South (the main Ramblin’ Wall is around the corner on the opposite side of Ramblin’ Wall South). There is no walk-off from the top of the crag. To avoid leaving gear or fiddling around with threading the anchor, head for the open shuts at the top of Rest in Peace and lower off. It’s a short climb up from Zappa Lives, and a couple of feet traverse from She’s an Addiction. All routes are short enough to safely lower off using a 60m rope.

Route Description


There are three routes on Epitaph:

Zappa Lives (5.8+) ascends the left side of the wall on or near the arête. 9 bolts. Cold shuts at the top (BYO draws; if you need to lower off and don’t want to leave gear, you can ascend the arête a bit farther (staying on the left side) to the top of Rest in Peace). Mayr and Sweeney’s book rates this 5.8+. I’d go ahead and call it 5.9. The crux is somewhere in the middle, where a short, steep wall with not much in the way of hand holds is encountered.

Rest in Peace (5.10a) ascends the line of bolts about twenty feet right of Zappa Lives. 9 bolts. The crux is found in the first three bolts, though this somewhat odd and sustained climb is hard right up to the end. If you don’t enjoy hanging onto thin holds while trying the clip the anchor, you can move a few feet left on the arête to somewhat easier ground.

She’s an Addiction (5.10b) ascends the line of bolts about ten feet right of Rest in Peace. 9 bolts. The first crux is in the first three bolts. Personally, I found this somewhat easier than the crux of Rest in Peace, but that’s just me. The second crux is encountered high on the route, where a steep wall with little in the way of hand holds provides some entertainment. We did this at the end of the day, and wound up flailing at this point, never finishing the route. I can’t say what lies in store for you past about the seventh bolt.

Ramblin' Wall South has two routes. I have not done either of them. Crossed Out (5.10c) is the short line on the right side of the south-facing wall immediately to your right as you face Epitaph. 4 bolts to the anchor. Schred Central (5.11b/c) is a somewhat longer line up the east-facing side of the crag. 8 bolts to the anchor. Both routes have walk-off descents if needed.

The Gateway has at least two routes. Delicate Embrace (5.10b) is the rightmost one. I have no information on the route to its left. Not sure about the descent or status of the anchors.

Essential Gear


Rope, 11 draws, mosquito repellant.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

View of Epitaph and Ramblin\'...