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Escalavrado
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Escalavrado

 
Escalavrado

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, South America

Lat/Lon: 22.4783°S / 43.00358°W

Object Title: Escalavrado

County: Guapimirim

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Big Wall, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 4613 ft / 1406 m

 

Page By: Mountainfriend

Created/Edited: Aug 10, 2006 / Aug 10, 2006

Object ID: 214543

Hits: 7861 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Overview

Escalavrado ( Scratched ) is the first big mountain of Serra dos Órgãos National Park looking from the south side. An imponent spire arising in the Atlantic Forest, reaching 1406m above the Sea level. Ecalavrado has a rounded form in all sides, elapsing the rock erosion by winds, rains and weather changes. The road to Teresópolis town , BR-116 cross the base of Escalavrado, making easy the acess to the south and east routes. At the base is possible to see how this big wall is tall , slippery and exposed. This mountain localizes at the south portion of Serra dos Órgãos National Park.
Looking to North from the summit, we see two important mountains : Dedo de Deus ( 1695m ) and Dedo de Nossa Senhora ( 1430m ); To the East , Jacarandá Protection Area ( Atlantic Forest Reserve ); To South , Rio de Janeiro State slopes and Guanabara Bay; To West appear the Castelos do Açu Altiplane ( 2200m ).
Escalavrado
Escalavrado East Face

Getting There

Escalavrado has the easiest access to climb the big walls inside SONP, starting the route close to the BR-116 road, just few steps from the asphalt. After Guapimirim town, in the base of Serra dos Órgãos, drive more 15km up the mountains and, just in the main Escalavrado Wall have a little parking car to reference the start.
Rio de Janeiro – BR-040 to north – BR-116 to North – Mage town – Guapimirim town – Escalavrado. 80 km of distance from downtown Rio de Janeiro.
BR-116 road put you in front...
Escalavrado is the first big wall of Serra dos Órgãos National Park


Red Tape

No fees or taxes to climb the mountain. For your safety, notify the Serra dos Órgãos security about your climbing.
To make trails inside the forest, I recommend an experient guide.

Camping

There aren’t any places to camp on Escalavrado or in the base. The forest is close and without good areas to bivouac or camping. There aren’t brooks or water sources in the trail.

External Links

Serra dos Órgãos National Park
Guapimirim Photos

When to Climb

All seasons are good to climb Escalavrado but, be careful with Summer season – Storms could punish brave climbers. The South and East routes are protected by shadows after 12:00.
Storms near Escalavrado
Escalavrado and the rainforest


Routes

Abuso Route
D5 7º VIIa A2+
Michel Cipolatti, Miguel Monteza, Léo Siqueira, Alexandre Siqueira e Guilherme Fonseca , 2002.

Variante Cabeça de Batata

Miguel Monteza e Patrícia Duffles, 2003.

Variante Chatron Backes
difficult??
year??

Face Oposta do Escalavrado
4º A1
André Ribas, Antônio Carlos Magalhães e Mário Luiz Rodrigues Arnauld, 1977.

Helio Paz Route
Difficult??
1983.

Infinita Highway
6º VIsup (A1/VIIb)
Miguel Monteza Rego e Lauro Cavalcanti, 1998.

Variante Thales de Garcia
??
1989.

Xenólitos Perdidos do Imenso Monolito
D4 6º VIsup E3, 800m
Miguel Monteza, Guilherme Fonseca e Patrícia Duffles, 2003.
Aperitivo Route
Climbing in Escalavrado