Escape From Poland, 5.10d

Escape From Poland, 5.10d

3rd Pitch- 50m- 5.10/ These next two off-width pitches are the stand out pitches/rock for both the Polish Route and Escape from Poland. They consist of parallel (wide) splitters up a steep face. Supposedly they have been combined with an 80m rope, but that felt to me (I led both pitches) to surely involve a short bit of simul-climbing not to mention the need for hauling up more large gear. Much is made of the hanging belay between these pitches, but I found it to be a decent stance and not as bad as most big wall hanging belays if you are use to that. The belay is best made as the right side crack starts to get wider (beyond 5”) and you look to transition to the next crack left where there are hands for 50’ or so. During this transition, you will find a small crack to build the perfect gear belay in. The 3rd pitch was quite a bit more strenuous than the 4th in my opinion. The upper portion of the right crack works you a bit physically. The start of this 3rd pitch is discussed at detail via summit logs but is actually fairly straight forward. Protect with a C4#5 up and left from the ledge and then traverse right to a horn and sling it, then back clean the #5 and proceed with more face traversing to the crack up and right starting near the large corner. At approximately 40m, start noticing the crack up and left and consider your belay in the next 10 meters or so. Incredible Hulk, High Sierra, June, 2013
Dow Williams
on Jun 28, 2013 10:13 am
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 854385

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