Ewetopian Crack | [ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ] |
Ewetopian Crack with a #4 BD offset in a pin scar. Fun, fun, fun!!! Photo taken on pitch 3 of Virgin Wool on Sheep Rock (Apr. 22, 2007).
Comments
[ Post a Comment ]| rhyang | What are those ? | | 
Voted 10/10 | hey Radek, which offsets do you use / like ? | | Posted Apr 25, 2007 7:50 pm |
 | | rpc | Re: What are those ? | | 
Hasn't voted | these are the BD ones. I have one set of HB offsets and (based on my very limited experience) I like placing them better somehow. | | Posted Apr 25, 2007 7:56 pm |
| The Chief | OH OH OH AHHHHH.... | | 
Voted 10/10 | Excuse me, I have to go change my undies now! What a fit eh...BOMBER!!! What a crack and such a classic route! BD's work much better in Arches and all around the MOAB Area in the soft stuff, than HB's do. I actually modified my MET Curves so as to fit just like the BD's. This is from my very extensive experience! Nice report!!
| | Posted Apr 25, 2007 9:25 pm |
| | rpc | Re: OH OH OH AHHHHH.... | |
Hasn't voted | Thank you very much Chief.
"BD's work much better in Arches and all around the MOAB Area in the soft stuff, than HB's do. "
I'm happy to hear that as I blew the rei dividend on a handful of these BD ones :) | | Posted Apr 25, 2007 9:42 pm |
| Dave Daly | Boner! | | 
Voted 10/10 | Fits like a glove!! C0....HA! Excuse me while I attend to a certain "need"!
| | Posted Jun 8, 2007 12:31 pm |
| | rpc | Re: Boner! | |
Hasn't voted | heheheh :)
A great route! Probably the best aid cilmb we've done to date (& this is the best pitch). | | Posted Jun 8, 2007 1:37 pm |
| kamil | good one! | | 
Voted 10/10 | I understand you aided on it... I used similar sizes (DMM's) as active pro on some scary trad routes in England and Wales (but never tried to fly on them :)
cheers,
kamil | | Posted Feb 3, 2008 6:22 pm |
| | rpc | Re: good one! | |
Hasn't voted | thanks Kamil! Yeah, bulk of this route is aid. I have been using these Black Diamond offset nuts for free climbing a bit too but also have not had the pleasure of falling onto one :) | | Posted Feb 4, 2008 11:55 am |
| sjarelkwint | Great placement! | | 
Hasn't voted | Great placement, thats one you can take a flyer on :-)
Took a flyer on a DMM micronut once which was way more doubtfull placed than this one and kept me from flying!
I keep sticking to the DMM's but not sure if you can get them in the US?
Great tripreport btw! | | Posted Jan 7, 2012 11:35 am |
| | rpc | Re: Great placement! | |
Hasn't voted | thanks S.
"I keep sticking to the DMM's but not sure if you can get them in the US?"
I think so ...isn't DMM making these things based on an old HB patent or some such thing? | | Posted Jan 10, 2012 12:58 pm |
| | sjarelkwint | Re: Great placement! | |
Hasn't voted | yeah, advantage is they are waaay easier to place, really love their nuts! If you know someone who has them try to use them on a climb and you'll badly fall in love with them! | | Posted Jan 10, 2012 1:36 pm |
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