This was my first peak in the Karakoram. Walter Phipps was unwell after our first try on the mountain so I decided to make a solo attempt. The plan was to climb as fast as possible by the most direct line possible from a high bivi. The route went to plan, but the descent down the Southeast Ridge was a bit scary without a rope.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."