This was my first peak in the Karakoram. Walter Phipps was unwell after our first try on the mountain so I decided to make a solo attempt. The plan was to climb as fast as possible by the most direct line possible from a high bivi. The route went to plan, but the descent down the Southeast Ridge was a bit scary without a rope.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe