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Frederick Mummery, the man who dared Nanga Parbat Albert Frederick Mummery, the man who dared Nanga Parbat  by Silvia Mazzani

Last February Nanga Parbat has worldwide been the lion's share on the front pages of mountaineering chronicles in reason of the successful first winter ascent by an Italian-Spanish-Pakistani team. Nanga Parbat, after 28 failed attempts, had remained one of the two 8000s, being K2 the second one, never climbed in wintertime. This article deals with the outstanding figure of the first man on earth that in 1895, over a century ago, attempted the first ascent of this majestic mountain by an extraordinary light-weight endeavour. A concept must be clear before start talking about Albert Frederick Mummery: he was a veritable forerunner of modern mountaineering.

Black Hills
7000 Club Black Hills 7000 Club  by panhandletrails

No one seems to know who originally coined the term “Black Hills 7000 Club”. It’s not a term that is used frequently in the Black Hills area, but it does get used by at least some of the local hikers. The term generally refers to the eight named summits in the Black Hills that are at least 7,000 feet in elevation.

Is it a Peak, Mount, or
Mountain? Is it a Peak, Mount, or Mountain?  by StephAbegg

Why is it Mount Baker and Mount Rainier, and not Baker Mountain or Rainier Peak? Are Peaks really peakier and Mounts more massive, or do summit titles follow too much whim and misnaming for any significant relationships to exist? In this project, I use multinomial logistic regression techniques to show that there are in fact numerically significant differences in the topography of Peaks, Mounts, and Mountains.

History and facts of Ouray
Ice Park History and facts of Ouray Ice Park  by Liba Kopeckova

The Ouray Ice Park is a world famous ice climbing area that has absorbed the axe blows of thousands of climbers, new and old, from around the globe. Many well-known ice climbers and alpinists have spent time in this incredible climbing resource. From Ouray Ice Park Guide book by Vince Anderson and Cindy Williams.

Water in the Backcountry Drinking Water in the Backcountry  by Enkidu

Travel in remote areas can often present hydration challenges that are often compounded by weather, elevation and exertion. Often times the only water available is from the nearest lake/stream or snow/ice. In certain instances these sources can be used successfully without any treatment. In other cases successful use requires some form of treatment. Success in terms of drinking water can be defined as follows: The quantity of water available is sufficient to prevent dehydration and the quality of the water is such that the health risk from consumption of the water is acceptable.

Georges Livanos Georges Livanos "Le Grec"  by ericvola

Georges Livanos Alias Le Grec, King of the Calanques, Emperor in the Dolomites, 500 first ascents beyond Verticality. One of the aphorisms he always was found of: "Better one more peg than one man less… especially if that man is me!” Pure amateur, he put 25.000 pegs, opened 500 routes in the Calanques of Marseille, 40 in the Dolomites, around 20 in the Alps and repeated quite a number of big routes in the Alps and the Dolomites. Many of the great names of Alpinism did rope with him, Jean Franco, Maurice Herzog, Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Jean Couzy,Michel Vaucher, Claudio Barbier, not to mention his Italian friends such as Gino Soldà, Armando da Roit, Beppi de Franchesch, Marcello Bonafede, Menegus, Stenico and many others particularly when they came in the Calanques.

Chasing the Light Chasing the Light  by Mark Doiron

Photography is all about light. That should be patently obvious to even the most casual observer.

Abalakov in history and in
ice Abalakov in history and in ice  by Liba Kopeckova

The Abalakov thread, or V-thread is ice protection named after Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. To know how to make a proper Abalakov (=v-thread) should be a requirement for anyone climbing multi-pitch ice routes. It is easy to create, it doesn’t require leaving expensive gear behind, e.g. rappeling on an ice screw, and it is very safe. I have used abalakov’s in anchors, even as an protection when running out of screws, and mostly it is used for rappel.

A rebel plant - Helleborus
niger A rebel plant - Helleborus niger  by selinunte01

Autumn and winter is coming to central Europe and to the Alpine regions and with them the dying of the plants, the falling of the leaves, the decay of all what is sprouting, blossoming and producing fruits and seeds during spring and summer. Soon enough there is the first snow, covering the ground, giving a definite stop to plants life. Light your oven, prepare your skies and wait till springtime for the first tiny blossoms to reappear…… You are wrong!

necessary and sometimes black art of getting down The necessary and sometimes black art of getting down  by ExcitableBoy

Standing on top of a summit, after congratulatory hugs and handshakes, I make it a point to say out loud, ‘We’re half way there.’ I say this not necessarily for my partner’s benefit, but for my own. Statistically, more accidents occur while descending mountains than climbing up them.

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