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Home Made Power Gels -
Energy for Less Home Made Power Gels - Energy for Less  by Travis_

I think we all recognize that power (energy) gels are a convenient way to get extra needed calories, easily and quickly, into our bodies during endurance activities. There are alternatives, but sometimes you just don't have the energy or the stomach to eat solid food (especially at 3:00 am). I am sure we have all forced down dry power bars while hiking, trying to catch your breath between bites, trying to wash it down quickly with water, breathing heavily through your nose all the while. Power gels go down easier, are quick, do no take a lot of chewing and are easy on your stomach. But, they are not cheap. Also, a entire days supply of Power Gels results in a lot of garbage, sticky garbage, sometimes falling on the ground and littering or leaking in your pocket. Why not make your own in a convenient squeeze tube?

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A Tragic
Adventure on Mont-Blanc A Tragic Adventure on Mont-Blanc  by ericvola

15th February 1938

Most climbers will remember the name of Raymond Lambert, the powerful and renowned Swiss guide from Geneva who with Tenzing reached a height around 8500 m(*) on Everest during the 1952 Swiss spring expedition, a new step which contributed to the success of Hillary and Tenzing the following year. Most also will remember that Raymond had specially made shoes, the size of a kid’s due to losing all his toes during a storm in the Mont-Blanc range which did not prevent him to go on climbing extensively in the Alps and later in the Himalayas and the Andes. But few will know of the event which caused the loss of his toes!

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Expedition
Medicine Expedition Medicine  by markhallam

This article is suitable for small groups, travelling light into the greater mountain ranges or other remote mountain areas. It is particularly aimed at trekkers or climbers, intending to go to altitudes of less than 7000 metres – and on straight forward routes, where there is some risk of illness but not great risk of physical injury.

Much in this article still holds true for the higher mountains, so it may still be worth a read if you are off to tackle one of the eight thousanders – or an unclimbed face on a remote Andean peak. But on such as these, risk of illness and physical injury is very much greater and you may be advised to have a seasoned expedition doctor in the party – who has current experience of trauma management as well as altitude awareness.

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Epistemological and Ethical Issues in Roped Climbing Epistemological and Ethical Issues in Roped Climbing  by jacobsmith

This essay is a continuation of my Theory of Alpinism, a work in progress. Much of the theory is focused on the individual - how and why we, as individuals, climb; what this essay will attempt to understand is why so often this profoundly individual exercise is partaken of collectively. There is a certain practical significance to this, even a non-climber could intuit that two linked by a rope is safer than one, but philosophically the issue is much deeper. In order to examine the ethical justifications and implications for roped climbing we must first examine the place of the individual in our cultural tradition.

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Giancarlo
Grassi, the Man of the Crystal Garden Giancarlo Grassi, the Man of the Crystal Garden  by Silvia Mazzani

Giancarlo Grassi was born in Condove (Piedmont, Italy) in 1946, october the 14th; he dedicated all his life to the mountaineering and was also an excellent writer of guide-books. Alpine Guide, member of the C.A.A.I. (Club Alpino Accademico Italiano) and GHM (Group Haute Montagne), alpinist of world-wide renown, he widely contributed to the popularization of the extreme ice-climbing in the Western Alps.

All the great high level classic routes of his epos, included the Walker Spur on Grandes Jorasses at nineteen, didn’t suffice to Giancarlo to make him considered inside its surroundings. His “palmares” doesn’t include only this kind of ascents; he was one of the greatest pioneers of the technical ice-climbing in the Alps during the second half of the Seventies and the Eighties. He explored numberless high mountain’s gullies and an endless number of ice-falls in all Western Alps main valleys; a specialist of the phantom-gullies climb and indeed a true master of the ice-falls extreme climb. The ruling outlook of the Torinese mountaineering didn’t understand nor accept his climbing way and his value was underestimated through several years.

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L'Affaire Freney L'Affaire Freney  by ericvola

August 29 1961: the ‘Last Great Problem of the Alps’, The Central Pillar of Frêney, is solved by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Djuglosz and Don Whillans. But in French eyes the honours go also to René Desmaison, Pierre Julien, Yves Pollet-Villard and Ignacio Piussi. Desmaison seemed unable to accept the facts of the respective Pillar ascents and set about denigrating the British achievement while inflating his own – a fiction in which he was supported by the all-powerful Lucien Devies, the veritable godfather of post-war French mountaineering. Only now, half a century after the landmark climb, has the record been put straight in the French mountaineering press.

I became aware of Desmaison’s claim to have at least shared the first ascent on reading a recent biography of him by Antoine Chandellier, a journalist on Le Dauphiné Libéré, a regional newspaper in the French Alps. Entitled La Montagne en direct – La vie de René Desmaison (Guerin 2010), the book gives René’s version of the celebrated climb. In it Chandellier refers to Chris and Don as ‘an employee of a tinned food manufacturer and a plumber and zinc worker’, implying that no integrity could be expected of such characters. Being a friend of Chris, I saw red and started a quest for the facts.

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Patrick Edlinger Patrick Edlinger  by ericvola

Patrick Edlinger died Friday the 16th of November from a bad fall in his home in La Palud-sur-Verdon (Alpes de Hautes Provence), he was 52.

Patrick was at the start of a phenomenom which occurred late in 1982 with Jean-Paul Janssen's film 'Life by the fingertips' which had the greatest impact ever in the French public by putting an incredible strong light on the beauty and pleasure that rock climbing could bring. The craze he created resulted in large numbers of youngsters adopting rock climbing and most of the schools building climbing walls in the schools vicinities.

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Years on Holy Cross Years on Holy Cross  by Kiefer

At 14,005ft, Mt. of the Holy Cross is the third lowest of the Colorado Fourteeners. This religious and antiquated icon was officially named a Fourteener in 1964 and is the northernmost Fourteener in the massive Sawatch Mountain Range. It is Eagle County’s highest peak, located just outside the small railroad town of Minturn. The peak carries an impressive 2,100ft of prominence yet cannot be seen from I-70, Hwy 24 or even from Tigiwon Road (which means, ‘friend’ in the Ute language). Mt. of the Holy Cross lays well hidden deep within the confines of the Holy Cross Wilderness and is further protected from sight by neighboring Notch Mountain. Although Shrine Pass, so named for its views of the cross, does offer good vistas of the mountain.

The first reported and official sighting of the cross occurred on August 29th, 1869 when a Mr. William Brewer reported seeing a cross of snow from atop the summit of another Fourteener, Gray’s Peak. Undoubtedly, there have been sightings previous to this and one popular legend (since discredited) goes that two Spanish monks, close to death and hopelessly lost in a massive blizzard were ready to just give up and die, freezing to death. Suddenly, the clouds momentarily opened up revealing a cross of snow thus saving the priests from death. Due to the renewed sense of direction, the two priests were able to continue on their way to the New Mexico territory (early 1700’s).

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The 1961
drama of the Central Pillar of Freney The 1961 drama of the Central Pillar of Freney  by ericvola

11th July 1961:


seven climbers are caught in a huge storm on the Frêney Central Pillar, very near the top of Mont-Blanc. Five days later, a helicopter brought three survivors to Courmayeur

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More Poetic
Than Arbitrary – Destination, Return, and Achievement in Mountaineering [Part
2] More Poetic Than Arbitrary – Destination, Return, and Achievement in Mountaineering [Part 2]  by jacobsmith

Most American mountaineers will be familiar with Ed Viesturs’ catchphrase, “summiting is optional, coming home is mandatory.” There are two general interpretations of this statement, and of the entire concept of return. The first, most simple, and probably closest to what Viesturs meant, is to calculate risk so that one lives to fight another day, meaning that even if one must, at one point, give up a summit attempt, one may return, and continue to climb elsewhere, so that the total amount of climbing accomplished is increased in the long term. The other interpretation is best summarized by Willi Unsoeld,

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