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Climbing the Diamond At 18
Years Old Climbing the Diamond At 18 Years Old  by noahs213

This One's for Kevin. One of his dream climbs was to climb the Diamond.

Some people dream about getting a diamond. I dream of climbing the Diamond. Sure the easiest route up it is only a stiff 5.10a but there are so many factors that make the Diamond the most coveted and wanted alpine faces in the U.S. Not only is it really hard but by the time you get to the crux, you have climbed over 1500 feet of vertical ground. That is all vertical on the Diamond. It's all above 13,000 feet. You also experience the cold effects and with this trip, my hands were getting dangerously cold if I did not move them enough. Not many people can handle the exposure you get on this with some of the wildest terrain out there. Two thousand vertical feet below you. So you approach the route with a 6 mile approach. You climb alot of the stiff route with frozen fingers, and by the time you get to the crux, it's probably already snowing/lightning. Then you got a long descent ahead of you. It's a serious objective not to be taken lightly. Not a ton of people do it.

Over these last couple of years, some of you who have climbed with me have seen me really push myself rock climbing wise. Whether that is sport or trad climbing. I got up to leading a couple 5.12's and a ton of 5.11's. When choosing such a serious goal, I chose other climbs in the park to train on. Me and Danny were getting ready for the dream climb. Since I got started in climbing, the Diamond has been a mega goal. It's a huge accomplishment. So many people dream about it but very few complete it. I have read over and over many accounts of it from famous climbers and there books to just trip reports. Everything about it has appealed to me. It's the stepping stone for what I want to do in the future, 8,000 meter peaks, Eiger North Face and etc. I never thought I would achieve it until I was in my 20's. That face is just plain intimidating. World class climbers have trained on it and to climb on the same ground as them, is well tough. It throws everything at you.

Crossing the Sea of Stones Crossing the Sea of Stones  by Vid Pogachnik

Those who seek to read about great adventures will find nothing interesting in this 3-days trek report. What I'd like to tell here is, how great area Steinernes Meer is for long hikes and for those who are looking for ideas, how to plan the visit of the area, to present one of the most beautiful itineraries.

Our goal was first to ascend the two cardinal (also among the highest) summits of Steinernes Meer area and to do a round tour which would show us most of the characteristics of the great plateau. We did the trek our way, of course. That means carrying everything with us (tent, sleeping bags, food and drinks), stopping at mountain huts only in emergency - additional beer, for example. That makes you feel free, dependent only on weather and your own fitness.

Great Day on Kiener's Great Day on Kiener's  by Brian C

Kiener's had been at the top of my list for this summer but a combination of being out of state all summer and poor weather had kept me off Longs. We had decided to give it a go about a week earlier and turned around due to a 3am lightning storm that turned into all day rainy weather. I had high hopes of excellent weather the following week but my partner had a prior commitment to climb Snowmass with a friend of his. Not willing to scrap the day, I got in contact with a fellow from 14ers to climb the Beaver route on Longs instead. The day before the trip, my usual partner's friend broke a toe and freed him up for Kiener's with me. We were back on!

Looking For
The Head Of The Dragon And Slaying The Bear Looking For The Head Of The Dragon And Slaying The Bear  by FlatheadNative

2010 has been an unusual weather year in Montana.

With unusually heavy and late spring/early summer snowfall in the high country and unseasonably cool temperatures in June, July and August climbing in Glacier National Park has been interesting to say the least. Thunderstorms and low clouds have left us unable to climb for many days. There are occassional "nice' days scattered here and there but far to few to accurately predict that the next day to climb will be without threatening thunderstorm and low clouds.

On an August day four of us set of to climb Dragon’s Tail. It was a unanimous choice for all. All but one of us had climbed it before but two of the three climbers were unable to see the summit views due to low clouds and wind. With undaunted courage we set off for the day.

Today would be unlike any other so far this year … the climb and the weather.

Alps 2009:
Sunny Saas summits and single return to Mont Blanc Alps 2009: Sunny Saas summits and single return to Mont Blanc  by markhallam

Not having climbed at very high altitude since the 1980’s I recognised that I needed to put in a bit more training than just nipping down the gym a few times. So this was my excuse to take off to the Alps for 2 weeks on my own last September. This would be my last opportunity to check myself out with altitude, albeit modest alpine altitude. It was also to be a chance to practice a bit of solo climbing and getting into the swing of living in tents again, neither of which I had practiced for a good few years.

This is what I got up to…

I started out by earning myself a telling off from an official who caught me putting away my bivvy gear up by the reservoir in the Saas Fee valley, Switzerland. Fresh out from England I saw an opportunity to start the acclimatisation process off immediately, with a night out at 2200m. So, in the darkness, I had driven my little hire car up there and laid out my new gortex bivvy bag. But it was verboten, I should have been in the camp site 600m below, at Saas Grund – and I was caught at seven in the morning by an exceptionally keen representative of local Swiss officialdom. It made me feel like a young man again. Struggling to produce a contrite expression, I evaded a fine – but inside I was singing - for the weather was perfect!

One Windy
Monday One Windy Monday  by vanman798

I must admit that I knew next to nothing about Oregon’s Mt. Hood. I must have seen it when traveling down I-84 years ago but its image was not in my mind, I did not know anyone who had climbed it, and I’m not even sure I knew that it was the highest point in Oregon! Yet I wanted to climb it, and since we were going to be in the general area I put the idea out there to my friend Josh, and he took the bait.

We would be climbing Mt. Hood as a two man team, and as we learned about the mountain we found out that it is glaciated and the site of related crevasse rescues, accidents, and even deaths. Mountaineering mostly in the Utah Mountains where glaciers do not exist and crevasses are not typically a concern, neither of us had any practical experience with negotiating glaciers and as such we had some learning to do. Our initial training came through a Utah County based climbing club which we are both members of. Through the club we received an introduction to rope travel, tying and using prussic knots, and setting up snow anchors. Understanding that on Mt Hood we would have only our combined knowledge to keep us safe, and to perform rescues should the need arise, we both spent time reading up on glacier travel and rescue techniques. We even got together and set up 3:1 and 6:1 pulley systems in my backyard. We also figured out how to use an ATC as part of a ratchet system to pull a partner out of a crevasse. A couple of weeks prior to our scheduled trip, we set out on a practice run up local Mount Timpanogos where on the snow covered slopes adjacent to Emerald Lake we practiced arresting falls while roped together, setting up anchors, and rescuing each other out of imaginary crevasses. Armed with our newly acquired knowledge and practice we felt we were ready for Oregon’s tallest mountain.

East Ridge (SE Face) - In
the Rain East Ridge (SE Face) - In the Rain  by Klenke

As we walked the old road up Goodell Creek I could not help but wonder how long this road had been around and how long it had been in disuse. It seemed kind of improbable to me that a road would have gone up this valley at all, but it only made it four miles to Terror Creek. The Goodell Creek valley extends northward into some of the meanest Cascades around and for a lot farther than where tributary Terror Creek comes in. I asked John Roper what he remembers about the road from his Newhalem childhood and he said it existed when he was a kid and was probably built in the 1930s. In the winters he used to sled down its initial incline out of town. And he also would fish (generally unsuccessfully) in Goodell Creek up the road a ways at fishing spots they called “Little Hole” and “Big Hole.” In the 1960s you could drive to “Straight Shot Creek” about two miles up the valley. After that the road was overgrown back then (already in the span of 20 years). But today this road facilitates easy access to the footings of the Southern Pickets because, although it starts out brush-encroached, it has a good trail along it. Without the road, it would be a horrid nightmare trying to hike the denseness of it. I suppose a trail might have been built instead. Or a route up and over Mt. Ross and “The Roost” might have been the standardized approach.

At Terror Creek we crossed on a high log a few yards downstream of this one, which is still there but now water runs over the top of it (I think rubble has dammed the under side of it). The log we crossed on was about two feet in diameter and very slightly inclined to the north bank. It was perfectly shimmy-able. But did I mention it was high? Yes, it was a good 12 feet off the deck with the rushing torrent below flowing wildly around big head-splitting boulders. We shimmied, we crossed. End of story. Apparently, this threesome that arrived at Terror Creek at the same time as us chose to do the 10-minute ’shwack upstream to the Pullen-Brisbine log from the weekend before.

"This area makes me nervous"  by Dean

Time is flying my friends, really flying. While looking through my pictures the other night, I came across the album of pics that brought back vivid memories of one of the highlight hikes of 2003. While not much has changed on Mt. Adams, a lot has changed for me. Of course I am now 7 years older (and hopefully wiser) but I have since retired from a dental practice in Kennewick Washington and moved across several states to the state of Utah where I am now involved in the education of dental hygiene students, a wonderful way to share my knowledge and experience with up and coming professionals. I am also living in a state that is loaded with mountains and things to do. As I approach my 70th year, I still feel young and vibrant and much of this I owe to my friends who I have developed over the past 7 years. Lucky is the man who has friends like Bob, Dennis, Rick, Bill, Kadee, Greg, Mike, Eric and the list could go on and on. No need to put last names here, you know who you are. Many many thanks. I dedicate this trip report to the guy who started it all, Bob Bolton. To you Bob, I offer my finest salute and thanks. And of course, a special thanks and salute to my wife, without whose understanding and support of my mountain passion, none of this could have happened.

One more note: This hike was toward the end of my first major season of hiking and climbing and had many many special events and climbs but this one is worth highlighting because the pictures do it so well for me.

Gun Shots
Fired, But Still A Success On Mt Larrabee & Winchester Mountain Gun Shots Fired, But Still A Success On Mt Larrabee & Winchester Mountain  by beaudaddy85

Our plan was to meet Saturday evening at the Yellow Aster Butte Trailhead. This is found just off of the Mt Baker Highway 542. Even though Gimpilator’s Suzuki Bandit has 1,200cc of muscle, it wouldn’t be a good match for the rugged road that climbs up to Twin Lakes at (5,200’). So I planned to taxi him up the last couple miles. We planned to bivy at the lakes for the night and hit the trail early Sunday morning for the southwest gully ascent to Mt Larrabee. A possible Winchester Mountain (6,521’) summit was thrown into the plans for an added bonus.

Rugged, Red Larrabee has been on Gimpilator’s list of summits to climb for some time now. His passion for this summit has been alive far beyond our time knowing each other. I could hear the stoke in his voice just talking about this state border massive.

The Holly
Sawtooth The Holly Sawtooth  by Holk

Papa Smashy (aka my Subaru) has just swerved sideways off the road and into a ditch, taking out a vertical road reflector, but I’m only half startled for a second or two before losing consciousness again. This occurrence took place one year ago, after my friend Isaiah and I climbed Thielsen - I guess pushing the limits on a thirty-six hour day was our way of having a post climb celebration. The plan was to camp at the Thielsen trail and head out early, but to our surprise the full days work and five hour drive south hadn’t hindered our enthusiasm to begin climbing, so without delay off we went into a moonless night where the stars never seemed so bright! Pre dawn light began to emerge behind the Sawtooth range at four o-clock, silhouetting Howlock and Thielsen. Isaiah and I arrived below the summit pinnacle at five forty five, just in time to see the sun rise over the horizon. This trip revealed to me the Sawtooth ridge (Howlock) to the north and Hollys ridge leading off to the east. I knew I’d be back sooner or later to check these areas out, namely Thielsen East Peak.

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