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Little Bear - Blanca
Traverse Little Bear - Blanca Traverse  by maverick

We were lured into thinking the worst exposure was behind us when we were faced with the sweetest knife edge of them all… the “Catwalk”...Here, the ridge sharpens to a foot wide and there are no ledges to the side that you can side shuffle over while holding on to the knife edge. You either walk the plank or straddle it and shimmy across.

Lagginhorn and some relaxing Mont Blanc research - part one Nadelhorn, Lagginhorn and some relaxing Mont Blanc research - part one  by Nikman

The weather on that Saturday was very stormy and the Mischabel range around looked as if it was “smoking” from clouds around. This view alone was worth coming up here. A feeling of freedom came up inside me.

To The Top
of Vancouver Island: The Golden Hinde To The Top of Vancouver Island: The Golden Hinde  by vancouver islander

No prizes for guessing why anyone would want to climb the Golden Hinde. It’s the highest peak on Vancouver Island and, beside any other of its many recommendable attributes, it offers the successful climber that unique experience that, at that moment he or she steps on the summit, and for a few fleeting minutes thereafter, they are on a point higher than any other human being on the land mass.

The Cradle
Of The Gods The Cradle Of The Gods  by Gangolf Haub

Quite naturally when you visit an island - especially if it is as mountainous as Crete - you wish to climb its highest mountain. Even more so if that mountain is shrouded in myth, like mighty Psiloritis. As a young boy or girl you were fascinated by stories and legend about the Greek and Roman Gods and at some time or other you heard about Zeus' youth, which he spent in a cave on one of the mountain ranges on Crete. Most often, the Ida Range with Psiloritis is named but some sources - and especially locals - claim the cave lies in the Dikti Range some 50km to the east.

As legends go - there will never be an agreement on the actual size but here, on the eastern slopes of Psiloritis a cave lies hidden, Ideon Andron, in which ancient artefacts were found. The cave could be visited for quite some time until scientists started sifting the ground for even smaller leftovers from the age of the Gods. It is here that the ascent to Crete's highest mountain starts.

A Grand
Epic: Beyer East Face A Grand Epic: Beyer East Face  by Anneka

Often, we go into the mountains with goals. To summit, to explore, to climb a new route, a classic route, to simply have a good time. The list goes on. Once in a while the goal changes due to unforeseen factors. Sometimes the goal becomes simply not to die. We call these epics. In mid-July, that is exactly what happened to my two partners and I on the Beyer East Face (I) on the Grand Teton.

Enlarge Glencoe Spire on the approach to the Beyer East Face I had just settled into the bed in the back of my Toyota 4-Runner (my home for three and a half months this summer) in the Albertson’s parking lot late at night when I got a phone call from Toby. Apparently we were meeting at the Brewpub for beer and to discuss climbing plans for the next three days. I crawled back into the front seat and drove to the pub where Toby and Tim introduced me to Neil, who would be joining us. Several pints later, our plan was set: Tim and Neil would climb the Gold Face on the Lower Exum Ridge, while Toby and I climbed Corkscrew on Fairshare Tower on Monday. Tim would go down that night and Neil, Toby and I would set up a base camp on the Moraine and do Beyer East Face I on the Grand Tuesday, and the Jackson-Woodmency Dihedral on the north face of the Middle Teton on Wednesday.

Thirty Days
in the Cordillera Blanca: A Month of Stunning Scenery and Occasionally
Excruciating Toil Thirty Days in the Cordillera Blanca: A Month of Stunning Scenery and Occasionally Excruciating Toil  by hhsilleck

One year after making a sixteen-day trek through the Cordillera Huayhuash (see our trip report with lots of pictures here), I found myself back in Peru for another climbing adventure. Our plans for this year were ambitious for us, as we hoped to climb up to six summits and ascend to nearly 21,000 feet above sea level. I am particularly fortunate on two counts in being able to attempt such a trip: (1) I have a wonderful wife (Sonya) with whom I love to travel and share adventures, and (2) my wonderful wife apparently has very poor long term memory with regard to the amount of suffering endured during a lengthy trip in the high mountains. After sixteen days without a shower last year, I was lucky even to get Sonya to set a foot back in Peru! This year we were also fortunate to be joined by some of my friends from college, Derek Dalton and his wife Maggie, who were traveling through South America before starting new jobs back home.

All aboard the
Totenkirchl-Express! All aboard the Totenkirchl-Express!  by mvs

I was happy to get the chance to show my friend from Seattle the Wilder Kaiser. So few Americans have heard of this amazing climbing mecca which continues to amaze me. We had hoped to head south to the Dolomites, but the weather was very bad south of the alpine crest.

In fact it was supposed to be bad in the north too, but a careful look at the forecast revealed that we could expect some sun in the northern limestone ranges.

Knowing that it could rain at any time, we kept the commitment factor low, and sought out a long bolt protected climb. The Totenkirchl has a great fairly new "sport alpine" climb called the "Totenkirchl Express." Rated VI (about 5.10a YDS), it has 18 pitches in 2400 vertical feet of climbing. The topo advises to bring a few pieces of gear, but mostly quickdraws. It had rained heavily the day before, so we had another reason to enjoy a long clip-up: no squishing around in seeping cracks!

Monster In The Woods Monster In The Woods  by rpc

Given our experience from the previous fall, the approach two days ago went quickly. The bushwhack to the base is not terrible though the very last part is steep and so we fixed a line and rapped in (figuring we'd be done late). With the exception of the last pitch (low 5th slab), we aided the entire line. Aid was hammerless though I did use a cheater stick on P1 to get past a blank section (since my head was not into stepping out of the aiders). With exception of one new-ish looking bolt above the crack section on P1 and one very new bolt at P2 belay (Tyler? Much thanks!!!), all other fixed gear was as one would expect. We ran P1 and P2 together given the condition of fixed belay anchors atop P1.

Straining our guardian
angels Straining our guardian angels  by chris.mueller

After bringing our broken car to the garage, we left Berlin in the late evening hours of Friday 27 April for a weekend trip to the Alps, 700 km and some more away. We wanted to finish the boring winter time and start the alpine season with some easy Ferrata stuff in the Karwendel area near Garmisch-Partenkirchen. While Mathias, a friend and climbing buddy of ours, drove, my wife Juliane fell asleep very fast after a long day of work. Briefly before reaching Garmisch the alps appeared in sallow moonshine and the trip really began to start, as we figured out that we are back in the alps again. Absolutely tired we raised our tent at a camping site near Mittenwald at four in the night and immediately fell asleep. A few moments later a badly drunken guy showed up and shouted and screamed in a way you can hear it all over the place. He complained that nobody cares while he was freezing to death. One need to know that spring time in Germany and even in the Alps began very early this year and the temperatures in the night did not fall below 10° C (50° F). He calls on, until the police arrived ant probably took him. Anyway silence returned and we slept on until 7.30 (excellent 3 ½ hours) in the morning.

Sawatch Bliss, Sawatch Pain Sawatch Bliss, Sawatch Pain  by Brad Snider

It was still dark as I reached timberline after a hefty climb up the switchbacks of Missouri Gulch. Ahead, I could already see the silhouette of the gigantic Mount Belford illuminated by a myriad of stars. I had climbed this mountain before in deep snow; today the ground was bare and I was looking forward to the steep hike. I was on vacation from the east coast, and with one day to hike in Colorado I decided that I should tackle a mountain or two... or five. Several years ago I read Aaron Johnson’s account of Emerald and Iowa Peaks, befittingly entitled “A Secret in the Heart of the Wilderness.” That, along with my desire to climb Colorado’s hundred highest mountains, led me to this beautiful gulch. I hoped to make it to Emerald and Iowa Peaks today, but first I had some unfinished business to attend to.

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