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An
Emotional Rollercoaster – The SP Mini Gathering In Kranjska Gora An Emotional Rollercoaster – The SP Mini Gathering In Kranjska Gora  by Gangolf Haub

Four years – for four years almost I have been a member at SummitPost but so far I have not met a single of my fellow members in person. Virtually, yes – there have been lots of discussions and I think I know some members very well already. But do I really?

Anyway, this is bound to change tonight. Ever since I announced to Vid that I would spend three weeks in Kranjska Gora in Slovenia to have a look at the Julian Alps, we have plotted to meet and maybe climb somewhere. Vid went even further, he suggested a date and a pizzeria, asked other members to join and put up a message on the Europe board. Before I left home he told me Bor would attend and ganesh70 and possible some others. One guy from Hungary maybe wanted to come but I had to leave so I didn’t get to know the details. At Kranjska Gora I had no internet access so I was closed out from any SP-discussions.

But today will be the day, Friday Sept. 14th 2007, at 8:00 p.m. at Pizzeria Kotnik. I’m exited!

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Gone midnight and in need of
a bivvy site. Gone midnight and in need of a bivvy site.  by munroitis

With a hectic work schedule I’d not planned or schemed this trip like the Chris of old. Usually I’d have had my head buried in all manner of books and maps and have trawled the internet for info and excitement (steady). The penny started to drop two weeks before when we’d had our acclimatisation trip with Steve and Rich up Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag. To be honest I’d left all the organisation down to the two of them. So having stocked up on all manner of extra gear Stu, Mark and I set off at the not too unreasonable hour of 07.30. After pranging my back left alloy (just brilliant that on a car less than one month old) on the boulders which surround Mark’s garden it was no surprise when I bit his head off for being a wee bit late. You’d have thought after fifteen years of going walking I’d have got used to his lack of promptness.

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Banner Peak, East Corner Banner Peak, East Corner  by bearbnz

In Secor’s book, not noted for its accuracy, the route is listed as Class 4, and was first climbed way back in 1931 by Jules Eichorn and Robert Underhill, in canvas tennis shoes, with hip belays and hemp ropes. Jules Eichorn , on route grading, wrote: “We had a kind of simplified version of a rating system. If we did not have a rope – it was class 3. If we had a rope, but did not have the right pitons – it was class 4. If we had a rope and pitons (and used them) – it was class 5.” Sounded fun and interesting, I do like steep scrambling.

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Snowmass - Hagerman
Traverse Snowmass - Hagerman Traverse  by maverick

We looked across at Hagerman and assessed the weather situation. We might have just enough time to traverse across before the next wave came in from the South. We needed to move quickly and confidently over tricky terrain.

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Nadelhorn,
Lagginhorn and some relaxing Mont Blanc research - part two Nadelhorn, Lagginhorn and some relaxing Mont Blanc research - part two  by Nikman

After 3 ½ hours I reached the icefield that led to the summit on the last 200 meters of altitude. I put on the crampons again and made those last steps. Two passages needed all of my concentration because there was blank ice and an unsecured fall would have led to deadly consequences even at this relatively easy mountain.

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Little Bear - Blanca
Traverse Little Bear - Blanca Traverse  by maverick

We were lured into thinking the worst exposure was behind us when we were faced with the sweetest knife edge of them all… the “Catwalk”...Here, the ridge sharpens to a foot wide and there are no ledges to the side that you can side shuffle over while holding on to the knife edge. You either walk the plank or straddle it and shimmy across.

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Nadelhorn,
Lagginhorn and some relaxing Mont Blanc research - part one Nadelhorn, Lagginhorn and some relaxing Mont Blanc research - part one  by Nikman

The weather on that Saturday was very stormy and the Mischabel range around looked as if it was “smoking” from clouds around. This view alone was worth coming up here. A feeling of freedom came up inside me.

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To The Top
of Vancouver Island: The Golden Hinde To The Top of Vancouver Island: The Golden Hinde  by vancouver islander

No prizes for guessing why anyone would want to climb the Golden Hinde. It’s the highest peak on Vancouver Island and, beside any other of its many recommendable attributes, it offers the successful climber that unique experience that, at that moment he or she steps on the summit, and for a few fleeting minutes thereafter, they are on a point higher than any other human being on the land mass.

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The Cradle
Of The Gods The Cradle Of The Gods  by Gangolf Haub

Quite naturally when you visit an island - especially if it is as mountainous as Crete - you wish to climb its highest mountain. Even more so if that mountain is shrouded in myth, like mighty Psiloritis. As a young boy or girl you were fascinated by stories and legend about the Greek and Roman Gods and at some time or other you heard about Zeus' youth, which he spent in a cave on one of the mountain ranges on Crete. Most often, the Ida Range with Psiloritis is named but some sources - and especially locals - claim the cave lies in the Dikti Range some 50km to the east.

As legends go - there will never be an agreement on the actual size but here, on the eastern slopes of Psiloritis a cave lies hidden, Ideon Andron, in which ancient artefacts were found. The cave could be visited for quite some time until scientists started sifting the ground for even smaller leftovers from the age of the Gods. It is here that the ascent to Crete's highest mountain starts.

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A Grand
Epic: Beyer East Face A Grand Epic: Beyer East Face  by Anneka

Often, we go into the mountains with goals. To summit, to explore, to climb a new route, a classic route, to simply have a good time. The list goes on. Once in a while the goal changes due to unforeseen factors. Sometimes the goal becomes simply not to die. We call these epics. In mid-July, that is exactly what happened to my two partners and I on the Beyer East Face (I) on the Grand Teton.

Enlarge Glencoe Spire on the approach to the Beyer East Face I had just settled into the bed in the back of my Toyota 4-Runner (my home for three and a half months this summer) in the Albertson’s parking lot late at night when I got a phone call from Toby. Apparently we were meeting at the Brewpub for beer and to discuss climbing plans for the next three days. I crawled back into the front seat and drove to the pub where Toby and Tim introduced me to Neil, who would be joining us. Several pints later, our plan was set: Tim and Neil would climb the Gold Face on the Lower Exum Ridge, while Toby and I climbed Corkscrew on Fairshare Tower on Monday. Tim would go down that night and Neil, Toby and I would set up a base camp on the Moraine and do Beyer East Face I on the Grand Tuesday, and the Jackson-Woodmency Dihedral on the north face of the Middle Teton on Wednesday.

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