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Last Call for Rock Climbs! Last Call for Rock Climbs!  by mvs

Dan Protz and I had the first weekend of November free to climb. We went to the Dolomites for a grab bag of easy climbing. I was hoping to climb Torre Venezia after reading Radek's great report. But I was worried about cold and also felt out of shape for difficult climbing. Let's just do "5.easy" as a way of getting out and saying goodbye to the summer mountains!

Arches and
Behind the Rocks Photo Trip Report (November 6-7 2009) Arches and Behind the Rocks Photo Trip Report (November 6-7 2009)  by Scott

Several of us met at the mouth of Courthouse Wash near Moab at 8 am. After meeting, we split into two groups and the two groups went our separate ways. The group we (Kimberly and I) chose was a combination of old friends/acquaintances and new friends. AJ, Mark, Mark, Rebecca and Justin came. I already knew Justin and AJ from previous trips, but the other ones are new friends.

The first route of the agenda was a route known as U-Turn. It isn’t quite a climbing route and it isn’t quite a canyoneering route, though it is often referred to as either, but was more of a scramble up to the top of an interesting dome followed by a descent of a minor drainage via a few downclimbs and rappels.

With Lolli
in Snowdonia With Lolli in Snowdonia  by Big Benn

I had said goodbye to Lolli and dadndave and family at Stansted at the end of that August 2008 trip. More of an “au revoir” really as Lolli was keen to come back and walk the Snowdonian mountains with me again. So, early in April 2009 Lolli did indeed return and after meeting at Heathrow Airport we headed off to Beddgelert. A lovely village where I had found the Bistro was a superb place to base myself for what had become frequent visits to the area.

The Bistro has just three rooms for B&B, and they were all full for our planned four night stay. But they had booked us into a small stone cottage just up the road: and ideal place to base ourselves for three days of hard walking. Being close to the Bistro also meant we would breakfast there, (full cooked English style every morning!), and enjoy their lovely evening meals.

Expedition to Mount Sir Alexander: Success and Epic Third Expedition to Mount Sir Alexander: Success and Epic  by chris_goulet

August 14, 2009: Camp 8 had been established at 2750m (9000ft) elevation on the highest plateau of the Kitchi Icefield, just far enough from the massive Southwest wall so the rocks that often crash down the mountain wouldn’t obliterate the tent. I crawled out before breakfast to go crap. Being a conscientious mountaineer, I walked in blowing snow for five minutes to do my business under rocks. After I was done, I turned around and a whiteout fog had made the campsite vanish, and my tracks were obliterated! I advanced into the white void, vaguely going upwind while hard snow crystals whipped into my eyes. When I was sure that I had gone too far, I retraced my steps back to the rocks. “You idiot, you should have brought the compass!” I tried another direction, then another, until finally a faint shape materialized on the fourth wandering. PHEW! Back to the castle.

Bones, Better Trip – Rocky Mountain National Park Broken Bones, Better Trip – Rocky Mountain National Park  by Stu Brandel

Two weeks before a long planned Rocky Mountain trip this last summer, a bike crash on the way to work resulted in my acquisition of a broken left elbow and wrist. Gone was my lovingly prepared itinerary for a week of scrambling with my 12 year old son Evan, longtime hiking partner Dennis and his 18 year old nephew Anthony. In truth, my original itinerary overlooked several important aspects of the trip (like the fact that our wives Deb and Mona would be accompanying us, as well as my disabled daughter Hannah). So my trip plans needed to be reset as much as my bones did. I thought it would be interesting to compare the itinerary I had first developed versus the one I re-fashioned in light of my injuries.

3 x 4'000:
a good week in the Alps. 3 x 4'000: a good week in the Alps.  by andre hangaard

During a week in August (15-21 August) 2009 I was blessed with fantastic weather and was given the opportunity to experience three beautiful 4'000'er in Valais-region of the Swiss Alps.

Snowbound Sequoia National
Park Oct. 2009 Snowbound Sequoia National Park Oct. 2009  by peninsula

The Mountaineer’s Route is well known among peak baggers and my choice for this year’s entry into Sequoia National Park. The initial objective of photographing Mt. Whitney from the small lake below Thor Peak (Thor Lake) was to be followed on day two of this nine-day excursion with a climb over the Whitney-Russell Pass.

This year’s trip began with blue skies after parking near the trailhead at Whitney Portal, Oct. 8, 2009. I had hardly gotten underway when I came upon a party of several climbers, one of whom I was acquainted previously from the SummitPost website, a fellow poster who goes by the alias, Chief. It was Chief who first suggested Thor Lake as the ideal location from which to photograph Mt. Whitney. It is a small world indeed. We exchanged introductions, had a few good laughs, and I continued on my way.

Sass Pordoi, the
Sass Pordoi, the "Fedele/Dibona"  by mvs

"26 pitches! Really?" Danno couldn't believe it, though it was equally hard to believe that the upper part of the wall, which was all we could see from the Sella Pass was a mere 8 pitches. "The scale of these mountains is insane."
We'd just finished climbing a Sella Tower, and the Pordoispitze Wall glowed in the last sun.
"Damn, I have to go back to school next week," moaned Garon. And thusly, his part in the tale to follow came to a premature end.

But Danno called me a few days later, we were both having trouble getting our work done in the sudden heat wave that struck Munich.
"Do you think we could climb the Pordoispitze together?" he said.

Smoke Signals Smoke Signals  by Gangolf Haub

For most of us there are mountains which don't fit, mountains which seem to have a will of their own and which won't let you get to their top, no matter what you do. For me the worst foe of that type is Peitlerkofel / Sas da Pütia, which has thwarted me twice and which afterwards had the nerve to smile mockingly down on me as I returned to my car and took off. But this account is not yet closed and in the end I will be the one to be mocking! Similarly there are other mountains which I had given up climbing in my early days and on which recently I have been able to get my own back, one of which is Dürrenstein / Picco di Vallandro, the second highest standalone mountain in the Prags Dolomites / Dolomiti di Braies.

It is a beautiful mountain with an easy ascent route which on a fine day can lure hundreds of people to its summit. It is famous for its panoramas towards the Sexten / Sesto Dolomites as well as the Prags / Braies Dolomites and thus a must-go for anyone who visits the region. Ten years ago, in September 1999 we tried twice to climb it, both times being defeated by rainy weather. During the second attempt we were willing to go to the top no matter how much rain would pour down. But then rain turned into storm – storm turned into thunderstorm – thunderstorm turned into flood. And we fled the inhospitable mountain blotting it out of our minds for a whole decade.

Epic, fail:
the southern California 14er link-up Epic, fail: the southern California 14er link-up  by seano

The efficient peak-bagger typically climbs the Sierra 14ers in six outings (listed from north to south): Thunderbolt through Sill, Middle Palisade, Split, Williamson and Tyndall (usually separately or as an overnight), Russell through Muir, and Langley. However, the peaks naturally divide into two groups, Thunderbolt through Split and Tyndall through Langley, and speed climbers have climbed each group as a single, mostrous outing. Since the trailheads for Split and Tyndall (Red Lake and Shepherd Pass, respectively) are much lower than those for Thunderbolt and Langley (South Lake and Horseshoe Meadows), the groups are climbed north-to-south and south-to-north.

I was feeling a bit cocky after my last (successful) epic, and had managed to repress memories of the worst parts, so I thought it was time to try something similar in the Sierra. Thunderbolt to Split would be treacherous this time of year, but Langley to Tyndall fit the bill. My plan was to summit Langley near first light and Tyndall at dusk, making the most of the short day to navigate unfamiliar and/or difficult parts of the route. If I could summit Langley around 6:00 and Tyndall around 7:00 or 7:30, the whole thing would be roughly 20 hours.

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