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West Wall Warmup West Wall Warmup  by mvs

I'd been looking forward to climbing with Jesse for months, and I knew we'd immediately hit it off. His previous aggressive trips to the Dolomites had succeeded in bagging all kinds of routes I wanted to do, and the attitude he projects in photos and writings was the absolute best kind. Basically always happy and ready for more climbing. So I picked him up at Hauptbahnhof, and after a nice farewell dinner at my home, we loaded the car and headed south. It was great for Kris and the boys to get to meet Jesse, I could tell Kris liked him because he made her laugh.

Supposedly the Dolomites were stormy over the weekend, so I suggested we start with the Wilder Kaiser. It would give him a chance to see another climbing area, and give me a chance to knock off a climb I'd been dreaming about for years. Of course (ahem) it's not exactly an easy climb. Frankly, it shouldn't even be on the menu for a "warm up" or "introduction" climb for anybody. I was kind of aware of that, but still, in execution the length and demanding nature of the climb still surprised me!

Some Afternoon Delight in Yosemite (Photo Trip Report) Grabbin' Some Afternoon Delight in Yosemite (Photo Trip Report)  by marauders

It's 6:00 a.m. and I've been driving for seven and a half hours. Surprisingly, I've felt alert the entire time, allowing my buddies to sleep the night away. Driving west from Benton, California, dawn arrives and I finally begin to feel the first wave of exhaustion. I fiddle with the iPod, trying to find some music to give me a spark. But to no avail; all my music blends together in monotones. I then plug in my buddy's iPod and a musical delight teases my ears. Not just any musical delight mind you, this is "Afternoon Delight". I've never heard this song before and my first thought is "What the devil is this crap?" But after a few minutes, the songs wins me over and a smile spreads over my face:

"Gonna find my baby, gonna hold her tight, ?Gonna grab some afternoon delight. ?My motto's always been, when it's right it's right, Why wait until the middle of a cold dark night??? When everything's a little clearer in the light of day?. Then we know the night is always gonna be here anyway??. Thinking of you's working up an appetite, ?Looking forward to a little afternoon delight."

Time To Buck Up For Buckner
Mountain Time To Buck Up For Buckner Mountain  by Redwic

In my ongoing quest to summit county highpoints and peaks with a lot of prominence, Buckner Mountain has been high on my "to do" list. With some mountaineering friends knowing this, I was recently invited to join several other fellow peakbaggers for a summit attempt of Buckner Mountain, which at over 9112' is the highest point of Skagit County and one of the highest points in Washington.

The plan seemed simple enough. Ascend Buckner Mountain via its southwest slope, considered by many to be the least technical route. As such, this route potentially had the best chance for success if conditions allowed. With an expected trek of nearly 20 miles roundtrip in two days over a wide variety of terrain, we knew it might not be an easy trip. However, with a good team and positive attitudes, we were motivated to succeed.

Mt Pugh Summit 7/10/2010 Mt Pugh Summit 7/10/2010  by beaudaddy85

So where do you hike when you have to be at your Brother In-Law's wedding by 3pm that day at the Tulalip Amphitheatre? Maybe try a quick visit to Mt Pugh’s summit?

After talking with my good bud Cham (SouthernYokel) we decided to leave my place at 2:30AM. The day was expected to be hot and we wanted to travel the snow in the shade. We didn't really know the conditions beyond Stujack, other than one TR a couple weeks ago that showed a picture of someone foot next to the benchmark in the fog.

Tabeguache casts its own
shadow Tabeguache casts its own shadow  by metal4lyf

Back in mid-April I climbed Mount Shavano with Dan and John. The route we chose was exhausting, and by the time we reached the summit we did not have the energy to continue over to Tabeguache. In retrospect I'm glad for this because, had we crossed the uninspiring saddle connecting Tabeguache with its higher neighbor to the east, we'd have robbed ourselves of an experience on this formidable mountain.

For two weeks following our success on Shavano I focused on other climbs, but Tabeguache was always there--truth be told I was apprehensive about returning and not particularly interested in any of the remaining standard routes over Mount Shavano. I'd seen others express the sentiment that Tabeguache Peak is little more than an afterthought when climbed via Mount Shavano, which is currently the only recommended route to its summit. I wanted to meet Tabeguache on its own terms.

Tirol 2, Bavaria 1 Tirol 2, Bavaria 1  by mvs

My wife was getting right tired of me moping around the house complaining about the weather. Family camping trips and he-man adventure climbing trips had been canceled left and right for more than 2 months. The weather was truly worse than Seattle (I looked!). Normally I count on trips in May and June to work off the disposition to soft living that I accumulate every winter like a fresh coat of down.

Finally the summer came, and some friends and I embarked on a crash course to use some good weather well. By the end, I felt avenged. All was right with the world again...no more moping!

For all you guys and gals out there just tryin' to "get 'er done" with limited time and weather. Hell yes!

and Křižák = bohemian sandstone climbing Adršpach and Křižák = bohemian sandstone climbing  by Liba Kopeckova

The Prussian King Frederick the Great said this: " Who has not seen the rocks of Adršpach, the Royal Chapel in Grussau, and the Ossuary in Sedlec, has never yet laid eyes on the nature, splendour, or art". I have to admit that I have not seen the mentioned chapel, but the ossuary is Sedlec is truly amazing. In 1800 John Quincy Adams, later President of the United States, was travelling in the area. He described Adršpach in his book "Letters of Silesia" as follows: "Adršpach is remarkable for its great number of free standing rock formations, oddly group or isolated, rocks such as I have never seen before....

The Ruth
Glacier and meeting a climbing legend! The Ruth Glacier and meeting a climbing legend!  by dfrancom

My recent trip to the Ruth Gorge, Alaska was an incredible experience filled with adventure, challenge and acquaintance with legend. It began with an invitation from my friend Ben in January this year. I remember the phone conversation going something like this, Ben said, “I bought a plane ticket to the Ruth Gorge in May, you should come?” I knew my decision would be to go. And thus began the start of a visionary trip. It would be Ben, his friend Jeremy, and myself to go.

The planning and preparation for Alaska was an adventure by itself. Maps, guide books, equipment, and avoiding additional luggage costs were just some of the things that demanded my attention. It was during my search for a good map that I became acquainted with the name of Bradford Washburn. Anyone that knows anything about the Alaska range knows that Washburn mapped the range and also took hundreds of photo's showing each angle of the peaks. Washburn's photos would inspire climbers like myself for generations to come. We decided the southwest ridge of peak 11,300 would be a good start to satisfy our mountaineering desires. As our trip dates of May 13th to the 23rd came closer I realized just how much money this trip was going to cost, but that is another story that my wife will tell me for a long time.

Glissades of St. Helens The Glissades of St. Helens  by EastKing

Originally this weekend Nartreb, Jimbopo and his brother Josh as well as another were going to climb Rainier but with all the accidents and avalanche danger recently that did not look like a good idea. Add on a shaky weather forecast and Rainier was dead. So the bailouts were Hood and Saint Helens. We all went down to Hood just a day after Nartreb's flight to Seattle and went for Hood.

Unfortunately jetlag took it toll and Nartreb was very sick at the start of the climb up Hood. He tried to make it through he had a hard time eating and drinking and at 9200 feet it was time for him to turn around. I felt bad for him but it was the correct call because Hood takes great concentration and if you are 100% you can get seriously injury. He will get Hood easily next time. I went down with him while Josh and Jimbopo went to the summit of Mount Hood. They later made the summit while we stayed back at the car with or two-way radios handy to monitor there progress. Jimbopo will right the TR probably in the next couple of nights.

down the U-Notch on the Palisade Traverse Bailing down the U-Notch on the Palisade Traverse  by StephAbegg

The Palisades is the most alpine subrange in the Sierra and contains some of the Sierra's highest peaks, its largest glacier, and most stunning scenery. This is a trip report for the Thunderbolt-Starlight-North Palisade-Polemonium-Sill traverse, a classic route that traverses five of the major Palisade peaks, all above 14,000 ft. This five-summit route is often referred to as the Palisade Traverse, although there also exists a "full" Palisade Traverse which much longer and has only seen two successful ascents (the FA in 1979 which was done with pre-placed caches and took 7 days to climb, and 1984, which was done over two summers).

It is possible to do the traverse from Thunderbolt to Sill (or Sill to Thunderbolt) in a single 22-mile car-to-car push, but Mark Thomas and I wanted to enjoy the beauty of the area (and do some night photography!), so we established a wonderful camp on the lower Palisade Glacier. We planned to do the Palisade Traverse in a day from basecamp. However, we ended up only climbing Thunderbolt, Starlight, and North Palisade before darkness forced us to forgo Polemonium and Sill and descend down the couloir from the U-Notch. Fortunately, though, we successfully climbed what are thought to be the three most aesthetic summits of the traverse.

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