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The Cleveland Group: The
Forgotten 13ers The Cleveland Group: The Forgotten 13ers  by shknbke

Scrambling sans snow in the high country is coming to an end and this hike has been on the agenda for awhile. We figured we better get down there and squeeze this in before it's too late. The Cleveland Group is a long day as the best way to climb them is up and over Music Pass since there are access issues on the west side. The good thing is you start high at 10560', but you lose about 500' on the other side of the pass that you have to slog back up on the way out! This would be my third and last time to do this.

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Three
Fourteeners in Four Days and a Thirteener Three Fourteeners in Four Days and a Thirteener  by Mike Lewis

On September 12th, 2010, Charybdis took me by suprise and decided to bring me with her to scramble some Fourteeners in California. Okay, so maybe we talked about it a little before-hand. Nonetheless, I was still excited about the idea. The list included Mount Whitney, Mount Langley, White Mountain Peak, and Mount Tyndall. There were also a couple Thirteeners (Mount Solomons and Black Giant)that would be included in a loop from North Lake, over Lamark Col, down Darwin Canyon, up Evolution Basin, over Muir Pass, Down LeConte Canyon, up to Dusy Basin, over Bishop pass and down to South Lake. We had eight and a half hiking days to work with (11 total) and over 100 miles. One of these mountains, Whitney, was something of an icon and I wanted revenge on it after failing to summit it a month prior. Not to mention another week in Charybdis' wonderful company!

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Mummy Mania 2010 Mummy Mania 2010  by Pete Castricone

A single day traverse of the Mummy Range in Rocky Mountain National Park is most often referred to as Mummy Mania and involves summiting Mount Chapin, Mount Chiquita, Ypsilon Mountain, Fairchild Mountain, Hagues Peak, and the namesake Mummy Mountain. In Rocky Mountain National Park, The Complete Hiking Guide, Lisa Foster labels this the “Mummy Kill Route” with a Grade II Class 3 rating. To keep the hike at this rating requires strict attention to finding the path of least resistance—perhaps not an alpinist’s typical game plan. This ambitious undertaking, which demands 5,600 feet of vertical gain and 16 miles of fairly strenuous hiking, can easily be increased in difficulty to Class 4, and several options on the latter peaks exist for some ropeless Class 5 moves.

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Sloan Peak: The Sloan Peak: The "Matterhorn Of The Cascades"  by gimpilator

At 7835 feet high, Sloan Peak is the 22nd most prominent point in Washington State. Catching a glimpse of Sloan from any angle gives a formidable impression. Fred Beckey has noted in his Cascade Alpine Guide that Sloan Peak has been called the “Matterhorn of the Cascades”. The fact that this massive precipitous mountain was not successfully ascended until 1921 speaks for itself. That’s not to say that climbers didn’t try.

I met Beau in a chance meeting this last February at the Perry Creek traihead. We were already familiar with each other from our activity on Summit Post. I could immediately relate to Beau with his passion for peakbagging and affection for the Mountain Loop Highway. In July we met for our first trip together to do Winchester and Larrabee in the North Cascades. Then in September we met again one evening after work to climb White Chuck. Having established a mutual trust and respect for each other, it was time for a real test. One last big climb before the coming snows.

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Mont Blanc
climbing, thoughts and a lot of pain! Mont Blanc climbing, thoughts and a lot of pain!  by PAROFES

On June 27, 2010, after finally manage to travel together, lili (my girlfriend) and I parted. She took a bus leaving Paris to Amsterdam, where she would fly back to Brazil. I caught a bus ten hours later heading to Geneva. In these twenty days together in our trip, we passed through Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Austria, Italy, Spain and France. It was a little tiring sometimes because we walked between 15 and 20kms every day knowing the touristic spots, but in the end everything worked out just fine. Backpacking in Europe, despite the language problem is quite easy. I can say that after almost 15 years as a backpacker, that was the first time I could achieve 100% of planned (all planned by lili). In South America barely gets to 60% for many reasons. In Europe, if you have no aversion to technology, you can eat, drink, buy stamps, mail letters, buy train tickets, bus and subway, all without human contact. There is a machine for everything, everything I mentioned and more.

Calmly, city by city, i did at MY BLOG reports and photographic posts with full details and funny situations. Here I will limit myself to the main goal for the mind after absorb so much Visual History, see all those places which i only read during my private readings or in History college, mental relaxation and reflection in the French Alps!

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Battle with
Gannett Peak Battle with Gannett Peak  by PrinceOfNorway

Our adventure began as we hit the road from Utah to Pinedale. We opted to take the Pole Creek trail. Anyway, on the way Anders was pulled over for going a measly 11 over the speed limit. OK, so he was speeding and got caught... The bad part was that when he rolled down the window a swarm of mosquitoes entered the car adding insult to injury. The Highway Patrolman even made a lame joke about it that was not funny, "Guess I should let you two go so you don't get West Nile Virus...uh heh heh." Anyway, Anders got a ticket and we were left to try to kill as many of the mosquitoes as possible. Anders swerved several times as he hit 5 mosquitoes at once with his hand against the window and windshield.

We arrived in Pinedale about 30 minutes later and ate some food at the only place open...a gas station. We drove through town going a respectable 1.5 mph over the speed limit. I might have been glaring the whole time...I don't remember, but it's probably not important. At the end of town the highway veers to the right, so that's the turnoff. We turned left and about 14 miles later we were at the Pole Creek trail head. It was midnight and it immediately began to hail. Bad tidings or blessings in disguise? You decide...

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Vesper Peak Accident/Rescue Vesper Peak Accident/Rescue  by StephAbegg

At 5am, I pulled up at my sister Jenny's house in Seattle. We were on our way to what we planned to be a fun and relatively mellow end-of-summer climb of the North Face of Vesper. We were at the trailhead at 7am and at the saddle looking at the north face of Vesper at 9:20am. The moats did not look like they would be a problem on the glacier below, so we decided to cross the glacier and do the entire route (rather than the ledge bypass that cuts into the route halfway in and is probably the more popular choice these days.) Once off the glacier, we began to climb the north face route. It was a bit wet in areas so we had to bypass on the right of the actual route. This was taking quite a bit of time, but we saw a reasonable way up to where the bypass ledge hit the upper route.

The accident occurred at 1pm. I was about 20 feet above the belay, on 5.7-5.8 terrain; I had set 3 pieces of protection. Suddenly, a rock flake I was standing on broke loose. I felt my left ankle rotate inwards, either as my foot was caught between some rocks or the ankle was torqued out by the rockfall. I knew even before I fell that my foot was badly hurt. I fell cleanly about 15 feet before the rope caught on my highest piece, which had not pulled. I looked down and could see my left foot flopping and my splintered tibia sticking through the inner ankle. Blood and yellowish-white fluid was flowing, but not spurting.

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10 for 10:
A Woman's Place in the Sierra Challenge 10 for 10: A Woman's Place in the Sierra Challenge  by Princess Buttercup

Twelve days I had hoofed around the Sierra, my pack starting at 63 pounds simply because I was too lazy to arrange a resupply half-way through this excursion. My path was, indeed, a path; after all, it was my first extended solo backpack. I wanted to feel somewhat safe, perhaps to have another person come near enough to hear my cries if something were to go wrong. But nothing did, and I came back to the frontcountry a changed woman. Within 2 months I had picked up my life and moved to a small town in the high deserts of eastern California.

Looking back on that trip, I suddenly realized the parallels between it and the challenge lying before me now. The sleepless nights leading up to the start; awakening in the dark to heart rushing, breathing hard as if from some nightmare; the anxiety from pressure poured on myself to be faster, stronger, smarter, to know my mountains in and out; to tell myself time and again that keeping up wasn’t an option, to run my own race, hike my own pace and trust in my skills. I had persevered for twelve days on that grand adventure; the mileage and elevation gain moderately similar to the days ahead, only this time without the 50+ pounds on my back. Not much assuaged my anxiety leading into this, my latest self-imposed bout of work.

Nothing, except the months of preparation, training, learning, conditioning, and trust in my mountains, could calm the fluttering in my chest. The only thing standing between me and my goal, was, well, me.

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Update on
Lizard Head Update on Lizard Head  by Liba Kopeckova

Lizard Head lifts its ragged spire above surrounding ridges and valleys in southwestern Colorado, and is surrounded by 41,000 acre Lizard Head Wilderness Area. The Peak is 13,113 feet high (=3997 meters), and rises 350 feet (=107 meters) above the ridge below. They say that it is the most difficult summit to reach in Colorado. Many advised not to climb it because its rock is very rotten and loose.

"When you reach the base, take a picture and go home"citation from the Guide to Colorado Mountains by Robert Ormes.

I was thinking about this summit for the past 6 months. I hiked around the area, and checked out the peak from all different directions. I picked mushrooms on the trail, I climbed the surrounding peaks, and finally I was brave enough to climb it. I just needed to find a partner who would be willing to climb it with me. Chris from Santa Fe send me an e-mail that he is interested in this peak, and will be coming up to southwestern Colorado the last weekend in September. So, our plans were made. And since we needed only one day to climb Lizard Head, we decided to warm up on some fourteener the day before El Diente Prelude.

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The Pyramid Traverse The Pyramid Traverse  by Kiefer

The Elk Mountain Range is by far my favourite mountain range in Colorado. The rock is resplendent with colour, flowers equally impress with delicate splashes paint, mountains are nothing more than broken cathedrals of strata and for some reason, even the lakes in this area seem wilder, warmer and more intriguing. Indeed, the Elks wouldn’t be what they are if everything wasn’t working harmoniously together. But that’s just it. Is it harmonious? Anyone who has camped or waited through a thunderstorm in this rugged range knows how intense they can be. Wintertime for all extrinsic purposes basically shuts the whole range down save for the few stalwarts who endure the extra miles of approach. The upper echelons of the craggy peaks are a constant struggle between weather, placidity and gravity creating a Parthenon of chaos. Mountains, trying to rip and tear themselves apart: breaking, cracking, splitting and endlessly fracturing themselves into herculean piles of talus and scree. Loose rock and instability is the norm. Indeed, the Elks are, “Evolution in action”.

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