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Photo Album
of Cholatse South West Ridge, 1993 Photo Album of Cholatse South West Ridge, 1993  by RobSC

The following pictures were taken during a climb of the South West Ridge of Cholatse in 1993. Although it has been a long time since that expedition, Cholatse is not a peak that sees many ascents, and there are not an abundance of pictures out there showing the route. Our trip began wben John Climaco was looking through an old American Alpine Club Journal and saw a picture of the peak and was overcome by a desire to visit the magnificent Khumbu region and attempt to climb the peak. The pictures below show the ascent made by John, myself, Andrew Brash and Chris Breemer on October 21st of that year, when we repeated the route climbed on the first ascent of the peak.

Mt Emmons,
Uintas, Utah Mt Emmons, Uintas, Utah  by ZeeJay

I had been thinking about climbing Mount Emmons (13440), the fourth highest peak in Utah for some time. It appealed to me because it had a southern approach making it more accesible this time of year. Two other hikes I had recently done in the area, one to the Paul Benchmark ridge, and one to North and South Timothy Peaks, had both had great views of Mount Emmons and its surrounding ridge.

Winter Ascent of Aragüells Winter Ascent of Aragüells  by igneouscarl

In April 2006 my friend Tom and I set our sights on the Maladeta Massif, the damned mountains. In winter no less. We chose Aneto as the logical pinnacle for our endeavours, its summit standing at 3404m above sea level. In fact, we were pretty certain we could be up and down in three days, giving us time to climb Pico Posets (3375m) in the our remaining time. The fact it stood on the other side of the valley didn’t really seem to matter.

We arrived in Benasque, the gateway into Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta, with sore legs and numb bums having spent the past five hours on buses from Barcelona. Twenty four hours later we finally dropped our bags on the shore of Ibonet de Corones, a small mountain lake surrounded by a half moon of jagged cliffs.

Mt Evans:
Follow the dashed line Mt Evans: Follow the dashed line  by HokieJim

Six years ago I had my first shot to summit Mt Evans with some friends from work. I can't remember exactly why I couldn't make that trip but I missed out. They ended up making a successful trip up Mt Bierstadt, across the Sawtooth, and over to the summit of Mt Evans when weather started to move in. Fortunately for them, grace came in the form of a kind-hearted couple from Parker, CO in a Dodge Durango, who offered to drive them all the way back down Mt Evans road and back to their car at Guanella Pass. The story was so touching that I instantly went out and married that couple's niece! Well, okay, so that happened 4 years later, but imagine the surprise as my future wife Karen is telling her aunt and uncle about this guy (me) she met who works for a lock company in Colorado Springs and started hiking 14ers with friends from work back in 2002, who hitched a ride down Mt Evans. Talk about a small world!

Mount Sneffels - Snake
Couloir Mount Sneffels - Snake Couloir  by Andy

At 9:00 AM on Friday, I arrived at the T-rex parking lot near Morrison to meet up with six of the other Brutes (Andy, Fabio, Brian, Adam, Jeff and Mike). We piled our gear in to the back of two vehicles and began our six-hour drive to the Blaine Basin trailhead at the base of Mt. Sneffels. Upon arriving, we sorted through our packs to determine what gear we wanted to bring. Brian and I had originally planned on a ski descent down one of the many couloirs, but we were concerned about adding skis to our already heavy packs and climbing the final and most “technical” section in AT/Tele boots. As it turned out, the final push to the summit was not as difficult as we had imagined, and could have easily been climbed in ski boots with crampons.

Mt. Everest
South Col, Spring 2008 Mt. Everest South Col, Spring 2008  by Kurt Wedberg

Well I’m back in Kathmandu after a wild and wacky year on Everest. The events surrounding this climb are like nothing we’ve seen before. The Chinese were trying to get the Olympic torch to the summit. In the process they closed off the north side of Everest to all other expeditions. They also asked Nepal to close their side of the mountain as well. Although Nepal didn’t close it they restricted access beyond Camp 2 at 21,300 feet until after May 10. Meanwhile many people who were planning on climbing Everest from the north applied for and were granted permits to climb Everest from the Nepalese side. With permits oversold Mt. Everest was more crowded than it has ever been before.

Introduction to Alaska Introduction to Alaska  by Brad Snider

I was first introduced to hiking in Pennsylvania. Then in Colorado I took up scrambling, rock-climbing, and the poorly-named “peak-bagging.” Wanting to expand my mountaineering horizons to some of North America’s bigger mountains, I decided to learn glacier travel and crevasse rescue. With little time or resources, however, I decided that signing up for a guided trip was the best way to begin. That is how I ended up in Alaska with American Alpine Institute, at Denali base camp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Our group of ten (2 guides, 8 clients) set up camp in solitude on the hill above Denali base camp, completely surrounded by world-class scenery amidst some of North America’s most magnificent mountains. Denali rose behind us, the summit just visible above a col between Mount Frances and “Lisa’s Peak,” and the ever-impressive masses of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter kept us Alaska newbies in awe for the duration of the trip. The 7-day Denali-prep course covered the basics of glacier travel, rope-work, sled-rigging and pulling, crevasse rescue, and wrapped up with ice climbing.

Neva Via
Juliet to Skyscraper: An IPW 12erfest Neva Via Juliet to Skyscraper: An IPW 12erfest  by shknbke

June is finally here, but with the weird, hard to read snowpack, it has been hard to plan couloir climbs. Around this time last year I enjoyed a challenging climb of the Arapahoes via Skywalker and vowed to visit the enchanting Indian Peaks Wilderness (IPW) more often. If there were 14ers here, this would be a hiking mecca in CO. I sent out a public invite and Sarah and Rob responded. I haven't had the chance to hike with Sarah and Dominic, so it was great that we could final hookup for what turned out to be a great day. Rob and I hiked together on an ill fated postholathon in sugar snow on Tucker Mtn on New Year's Day '07, so it was nice to hike with him again.

Neva is an relatively overlooked 12er that has some inviting lines to climb on its northeast face. The Juliet couloir is in Cooper's new "Colorado Snow Climbs" book as a short climb and is listed in Roach's IPW guidebook as a classic. It also typically doesn't have a cornice, so we decided to give it a shot. I copied Layne's idea of doing a car shuttle so we could make a ridge run over to Jasper, 12660, and Skyscraper.

Gristle's Revenge Gristle's Revenge  by mtn runr

On the morning of February 3, 2007, Joseph Bullough (known affectionately to his friends as Gristle) and Brian Dutton (Dunsum on SP) set out on the classic mountaineering adventure known as the Beatout. They ascended the buttress out of Red Pine in good time and crossed the knife-edge ridge to the base of the Pfeifferhorn. The avalanche danger was generally low with a moderate danger reported on slopes "with recent deposits of wind drifted snow." About half-way up the Pfeifferhorn pyramid, just such a deposit gave way sweeping both climbers off their feet and sending them over the cliffband. They bounced several hundred feet through the exposed rock and came to rest on the apron of snow below the cliff, Joe face-down in the snow and closer to the cliff, and Brian somewhat further down-slope and in a sitting position.

When Brian got his bearings he scrambled back up to Joe, freed his face from the snow, and tried to assess the extent of his injuries (as well as his own.) Brian reports that Joe was semi-lucid but was having trouble breathing. He cleared Joe's airway and got him as comfortable as possible and then retrieved his cell phone and called for help. Over the ensuing hours, even though his own injuries were serious (broken bones and soft tissue trauma), Brian tended to Joe, who was in and out of consciousness and suffering from shock and cold. Brian basically laid on top of Joe and kept him warm and breathing until SAR arrived and took over.

Both climbers were hospitalized. Joe was listed in "extremely critical condition", spent a week in ICU and a month in the hospital.

The Northwest Highlands The Northwest Highlands  by daw37

I left home at 05:55 in the morning for the long drive north to Scotland. Three and a half hours later I arrived at Inveruglas on the banks of Loch Lomond, to climb Ben Vorlich in the Arrochar Alps.

After a short climb on a track it was time to climb the slopes, which involved sixty minutes of steep trackless ascent. On the ridge it was windy but increasingly sunny. On approaching the summit I identified a path on the west face - which isn't on any of the maps or my books. Whilst annoyed to have missed it, I was overjoyed to know I had an easier way down!

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