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Cneifion Expedition Cneifion Expedition  by igneouscarl

After a summer of planning, my Dad and I finally managed to find a free weekend to spend climbing in North Wales. Both of us mountain enthusiasts, we were keen to tackle a long route which would put us high out of the valley and onto a summit. Having had quite a prolific year of climbing and walking in Snowdonia, I was keen to do a novel route that would be isolated from the majority of weekend warriors and outside of my familiar experiences of the national park.

A quick study of ‘Scrambles & Easy Climbs in Snowdonia’ cross referenced with the excellent ‘Rock Climbing in Snowdonia’ by the late Paul Williams quickly drew our attention to the alpine style climbs leading into and over Cym Cneifion (the Nameless Valley), with over 240m of easy climbing and scrambling that would put us onto the Gribin ridge, a grade one scramble that lead onto the summit plateau of Glyder Fawr (999m).

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Elbrus 2007 Elbrus 2007  by nab1ug

Having just landed in a town called Mineralnye Vody onboard a Tupolov 154 after a 2 hour flight from Moscow, the three of us are pretty happy. we are happy because the plane didn't leak too much AVGAS before taking off, the wings didn't fall off, and the already wasted russian co-passengers pretty much knocked themselves out on vodka and schnapps about halfway through the flight.

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The Grand Teton The Grand Teton  by dfrancom

I wanted to climb the Grand Teton this year not only because this Mountain is so incredibly attractive and majestic, but because my girlfriend Sunnie would be climbing it for her first time. We made the plan to climb the Grand in a single day, car to car. We left Logan around 9:00 P.M. on Friday August 8th.Unfortunataley the weather was terrible on our drive to Jackson. I watched the weather report and it said the storm would clear out by the next day. We hoped the weather report would be true, but things looked bad! Lighting was everywhere and increased as we drove toward Jackson. Just when we thought we would be rained out, things looked better as we arrived in Jackson. In fact, by the time we drove through town there was no rain at all. Arriving at the Lupine Meadows parking lot at about 1:00 A.M. on the morning of the 9th we could see stars everywhere above our heads. We could not believe our eyes after all the rain we had driven through. Talk about good timing, it was FANTASTIC!Sunnie writes,Daniel and I started hiking at 2:00 a.m. (right on schedule).

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Clinging to the Bullion
Divide Clinging to the Bullion Divide  by Brad Snider

Nearing the end of our three week trip out west, my wife and I had enjoyed near perfect weather from Montana to Wyoming. But now, as I decided to tackle my first climb in the Wasatch, a cold front was pushing in–promising steady 20-30 mile per hour winds and a chance of snow ahead of the main storm. It wasn’t the best of timing, but it would have to do. We were surrounded by some magnificent mountains, and I knew I would regret it if I did not at least make an attempt at some of them before our vacation drew to a close. The most obvious choice of route for me was the Bullion Divide, which includes seven mountains and some fun class 3 scrambling.

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Mount
Moffett Mount Moffett  by Bombchaser

June 19th, 2008, I landed in Adak, Alaska. The town of Adak is located on Adak Island approximately 1400 miles south of Anchorage, Alaska. I’m an explosives technician and I came here to begin a three month contract searching for left over military explosive ordnance. On Adak Island the highest point is Mount Moffett at 3824 feet above sea level. When I arrived in Adak the entire mountain was covered in tens of feet of snow. When I left Oregon I did not bring any of my mountaineering equipment. If I had brought the gear I could have had a number of possible routes up the mountain to choose from. Sometime around mid-July I decided to have my mountaineering gear mailed to me. The mail moves very slow here at times. For the first few weeks I was on the island I experienced a number of storms. Most of these storms were fairly cold and on occasion the top of Moffett would receive another light coating of snow on the exposed rocks. When July rolled in the storms were milder. After a series of mild storms the vast majority of snow had melted. There was still considerable snow in the ravines and along some of the ridge crests. I began studying the mountain and various topographical maps. I soon found on the west side of the mountain a long exposed ridgeline to attempt an ascent. The ridge comes in from a more remote portion of the island. I plotted a route along this ridge. I planned to descend using the much easier southeast ridgeline. This is the route that past hikers and climbers have used. I’m not sure how much the southwest ridge has been used. I wanted to do a sea to summit climb, and that’s why I picked the southwest route. My work schedule on Adak Island was eleven hours a day, and six days a week. So I would have to hope for a good weather day on my one day a week off.

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Aura - A Brocken Spectre on
the Loose Aura - A Brocken Spectre on the Loose  by Gangolf Haub

Common Sense dictates that you take a slow approach during your first outing after having spent half a year behind the computer screen. However, with me common sense is a poor dictator, which can be observed every year in September as we (girlfriend Judith and I) try to recover from our first vacation day after having returned from one of our epic first day enterprises.

However, there are more serious dictators than common sense, weather being one of the most serious ones. In September 2008 a Sunday of on-and-off rain forced us to stay in the valley – Upper Vinschgau or Val Venosta Alta. We managed 15km and 800m of altitude and got drenched several times. So the epic was spared for the second day – or was it? Upon our arrival we had lunched at the shore of Reschensee / Lago di Resia and while doing so had observed a long but easy looking ridge on the opposite side of it: it connects Piz Lad in the north with Äußerer Nockenkopf / Dosso di Fuori in the south and has two more summits in between: Piz Nair and Jochgrubenkopf / Piz Russenna. And that’s where we decided to spend day two this year.

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Earl Peak and Iron Peak Earl Peak and Iron Peak  by EastKing

With the calls of iffy weather on the western side I had a strong desire to head east to the Teanaway Region. Jason and Fran were head off to Malcolm Mountain so I luckily talked them into dropping me off a little up the road so that I could do Iron Peak. So how did Earl Peak involved here. Well after looking at the map I felt this strange confidence to do both. I knew I was going to have to be quick and not mess around on any summit, because both of these mountains are larger and tougher than Malcolm Mountain.

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My experience on the
Matterhorn My experience on the Matterhorn  by mvs

Whew. Now for the somewhat intimidating final climb. After the fixed ropes we felt "naked" on this high roof of the world. We kicked steps in the snow carefully and sometimes found a metal bar to wrap the rope around. We passed a statue of Saint Benedict (?) right below the summit, and tiredly (for me anyway) climbed to the high level ridge that marks the Swiss summit. Wow. It had been a big climb. Normally we shake hands heartily. This time Theron gave me a big ol' hug. "Congratulations man!"

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How Not to Hike the Grinnell
Glacier Trail How Not to Hike the Grinnell Glacier Trail  by silversummit

This article is based on a hike I took with a group, Sunday, July 31st, 2005 on Grinnell Glacier Trail, Glacier National Park; a 11 - 12 mile roundtrip hike considered by most to be moderate in difficulty. The actual writing was prompted by reading Tim Sharp’s insightful “Mutiny on Gray Wolf Peak” found here on SummitPost.

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Tannheimer
climbing Tannheimer climbing  by mvs

Josef and I were tired of the cold, rainy weather hanging over the northern alps for so many weeks. We had a clearing forecast for Saturday, so we drove out to the Tannheimer Mountains where we hoped for snow-free rock climbing in the sun. Everything "interesting" above 1800 meters or so seemed to be snowcovered, and it was unseasonably cold for September.

We wanted to combine the Schusterführe Route with the upper part of the Südpfeiler. That would be provide 8 pitches, several of which would be pretty hard for us (grade VI+, or about 5.10b YDS). We climbed the first two pitches without trouble, but even as the weak sun was warming us up, clouds came streaming in from the west. Josef tried to puzzle out grade VI traversing moves on the third pitch even as I was shivering at the belay. He gave up, so I went to try, but got stuck at the same place. Now my fingers were frozen and going numb. Curses!

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