Great route done it many times. You can skip the 6th pitch and rap of some slings on the right side of the second headwall. You don't get to the top but you skip the horrible ridge traverse. Definitally not for the timid. If like to place a lot of gear this is not the route for you. The second pitch i put in 2 horrible pieces in 150 feet.
can't remember the exact day I climbed this. Fun route. Perhaps better to free solo since you can't place much gear so you just essentially solo and drag up the rope. First pitch is the most difficult, rest is pretty easy. I followed the first pitch, but I climbed this again in March 2006 and led the first pitch.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."