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First Rock, 5.6-5.11c
Mountain/Rock

First Rock, 5.6-5.11c

 
First Rock, 5.6-5.11c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 51.04500°N / 115.1561°W

Object Title: First Rock, 5.6-5.11c

Season: Summer

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Dec 18, 2005 / Nov 18, 2006

Object ID: 167986

Hits: 1953 

Page Score: 73.77%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

First Rock is, you guessed it, the first wall you come to on the right hand side of Heart Creek. Due to the ease of its routes and location, it is probably the most popular crag in Heart Creek, therefore, some of the rock can get fairly worn. The easier routes are to the left and the more difficult ones are to the right.
Dow Williams Dow Williams

Route Description

Routes listed from left to right as you face the wall.

Main Section (left)
Brownout- 5.10c
Potentilla Pillar- 5.8- 10 bolts to anchor, 27 meter rappel. A little worn, not overly challenging.
Heartline- 5.7- 10 bolts to anchor, not very interesting.
A Dream of White Schnauzers- 5.6
Heartfelt- 5.10c
Trio- 5.6- 3 bolts to anchor, short route
Less than Zero- 5.8- 4 bolts to anchor with a roof problem towards the top, short, but fun route
Back to Zero- 5.9- 5 bolts to anchor, nice route
Feel On- 5.10.b
Fell on Baby- 5.10b- 5 bolts to anchor, some of that worn rock I was warning about
Dynamic Dumpling- 5.11a
Survival of the Fattest- 5.10c
Cavebird- 5.9- 7 bolts over fun features to anchor, 18 meter rappel
Pyramid Power- 5.9
Midnight Rambler- 5.10c
Sweet Souvenir- 5.11c
Honky Tonk Woman- 5.10c
Voodoo Lounge- 5.11c
Let it Bleed- 5.10a
Paint it Black- 5.11a
Bitch- 5.11b
Sticky Fingers- 5.10c

Small Section to the Far Right
Dandelions- 5.8- 6 bolts to anchor, fun route
Dead Flowers- 5.10b
Brown Sugar- 5.10a
Heartburn- 5.9
Heartburn Direct- 5.10c
Wild Horses- 5.9

Essential Gear

At least one 60 Meter Rope, Helmet, Climbing Shoes, Some Gear (mostly bolted sport routes though), The Local Guide Book (Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies) and these Topo Maps.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

First Rock Route...Heart...First Rock, 5.6-5.11c