
| Been dreaming about climbing this route for a while. Finally got on it. One of the highest snow years in recent history meant that we had mid-July snow conditions in mid-August. Camped at Lake Ann. Got slightly sidetracked through the upper chimneys and lost about an hour finding the right way. Winnie's slide and Hell's Highway were all snow (no ice). Didn't protect either; they were both around 50-55 degrees though. Summit pyramid was mostly rock. Ditched all our gear at the base of it and just took some water up. Really fun scrambling, but a big group knocked some rocks down as we were getting off the gully and they were starting to rappel. Please consider downscrambling the gully rather than rappelling to prevent rockfall through the gully (it is very easy to kill or seriously injure someone as there is nowhere to go to avoid rockfall and rappelling is much more prone to generating rockfall). There is no exposure and the vast majority of it can be downclimbed facing out.
Ended up downclimbing the lower chimneys in the dark and couldn't quite find the trail after getting off the chimneys(apparently lots of parties have gotten lost in the dark in that spot). Spent a few hours under the stars until people started coming up from Lake Ann and we could see headlamps on the trail. All in all, a mini-epic 25 hours camp to camp. Wonderful climb and route though, and the Perseids were lighting up the night sky as an added bonus! |