Overview

It is a not small mountain, it is a big ridge between the Valsavarenche and the Valnontey (Cogne Valley), most covered by (easy) glaciers.
No difficult routes on this summit that can be climbed in any season, the only problem can be given by the rocks on the higher part when iced.
normal route
First Ascents
- First on the summit (from S-W Arête): G. Yeld, A. Payot and L. Guichardaz, (Aug 09th, 1879).
- In winter: E. Denina and P. Sella, (Dec 30th, 1928).
- W Slope: G. Origoni and L. Blanc, (Aug 23th, 1890).
- N Arête: E. Denina and C. Pol, (Aug 17th, 1928), in descent.
- N Arête E Slope: W. B. A. Coolidge, F. Gardiner, C. and R. Almer, (Aug 19th, 1889).
- E Arête: G. Bobba and E. Jeantet, (Aug 20th, 1887).
- W Slope: Fleurette e Giuliano Calosci, (Jul 10th, 1940).
Getting There
Leave the Highway at "Aosta Ovest" (West), drive through Aymavilles and continue to follow the main street until you arrive in Cogne.HOW TO REACH AOSTA:
- From Italy: Milan - Novara - Ivrea - Pont-Saint-Martin - Saint Vincent - Aosta, or: Turin - Ivrea - Aosta.
- From Switzerland: Bern - Montreux - Martigny - Colle del Gran San Bernardo - Aosta, or: Sion - Martigny - Col du Grand Saint Bernard - Aosta
or: Bellinzona - Lugano - Como - Milano (only direction) - Novara - Aosta.
- From France (also Genève): Tunnel del Monte Bianco (toll) - Courmayeur - Aosta or (less expensive but a little longer, if you come from Genève take the tunnel!): Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo - La Thuile - Pre-Saint-Didier - Aosta.
- From Austria: Brennero - Trento - Verona (only direction) - Brescia - Bergamo - Milan - Aosta.
- Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).
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Red Tape
No red tape.![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() |
When To Climb
Best period is from March to May to amuse a very fine ski-mountaneering tripIn summer months it becomes a fine hike, very good for "apprenticeship".
from October to February it becomes wild
Huts
- Rifugio Vittorio Sella (2584 m)
Conca di Lauson (Cogne)
Tel.: 0039/0165/74310
eMail: info@rifugiosella.com


- Rifugio Federico Chabod (2750 m)
Côte Savolère di Montandayné (Valsavarenche)
Tel.: 0039/0165/95574
eMail: info@rifugiochabod.com


- Bivacco Leonessa (2910 m)
Upper Vallone dell'Herbetet


Camping
Wild camping in the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso is strictly forbidden!Mountain Conditions
- Meteo: you can find all the needed informations at the official site of the Valle d'Aosta Region:
Valle d'Aosta Meteo
Webcam
- WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
Webcam
Books and Maps
BOOKS:- "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Gran Paradiso Parco Nazionale" E. Andreis, R. Chabod, M. C. Santis, Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, prima Ed. 1939; seconda Ed. 1963; terza Ed. 1980.
- "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
- Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e rifugi" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
- I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "Gran Paradiso-La Grivola-Cogne Carta 1:25.000.
- L'Escursionista "Valle di Cogne Carta dei Sentieri" (n°10) 1:25.000.
- L'Escursionista "Tour de la Vallée de Cogne Grand Paradis" Carta dei sentieri 1:25.000.
- I.G.M. Istituto Geografico Militare Foglio 41 1:25000: "Gran Paradiso" Cogne.
- A.IA.T "Cogne Gran Paradiso-Cogne Aymavilles" Walking map 1:25.000.
Information
- REGIONE AUTONOMA VALLE D'AOSTA the official site.
- FONDAZIONE MONTAGNA SICURA Villa Cameron, località Villard de la Palud 1 Courmayeur (AO) Tel: 39 0165 897602 - Fax: 39 0165 897647.
- SOCIETA' GUIDE ALPINE DI COGNE Tel. 347/9473526 – 328/1373728.
- A.I.NE.VA. (Associazione Interregionale Neve e Valanghe).
- A.IA.T. Cogne Gran Paradis via Bourgeois n° 34 Tel. 0165-74040. E-mail: aiat@cogne.org
- Ezio Sport articoli sportivi - via Bourgeois n° 64 Tel. 0165-74204.
Useful Numbers
- Soccorso Alpino Cogne (SAR) Tel. 3482685406.
- Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
- Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
- Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

























