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Punta Rossa dell'Emilius
Mountain/Rock

Punta Rossa dell'Emilius

 
Punta Rossa dell\'Emilius

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Aosta Valley, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.66580°N / 7.38135°E

Object Title: Punta Rossa dell'Emilius

Activities: Mountaineering

Elevation: 11158 ft / 3401 m

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: Aug 23, 2007 / Aug 8, 2013

Object ID: 327891

Hits: 5030 

Page Score: 90.48%  - 32 Votes 

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Overview

The Punta Rossa dell'Emilius (not to be confused with the many others having a similar name) is, considering as an integral part the near minor summit of Punta des Laures (3367m), a regular pyramid with 4 ridges and 4 sides; if not, the mountain has a strange big "S" shape, connected with the Punta Garin (3451m) and the Monte Emilius (3559m).



First Ascents

  • First on the summit: W.A.B. Coolidge, F. Gardiner con Christian e Rudolf Almer, (August 30th, 1891).
  • In winter: Anselmo Falcoz, (March 11th,-12th, 1939).
  • W Wall: Agostino Ferrari and B. Glarey, (Sept 14th, 1898).
  • W-NW Edge: Armando Poli and Massimo Ceccarelli, (May 23th, 1970), in ascent.
  • W-NW Edge: Osvaldo Cardellina, (Jul 12th, 1990), in descent.
  • N Wall (Punta West): Osvaldo Cardellina, (Jun 08th,1997).
  • N Wall (Punta Centrale, couloir of right): Walter Bianquin, Osvaldo Cardellina and Ilario Antonio Garzotto, (Aug 23th, 1965), in ascent and descent.
  • N Wall (Punta Centrale, couloir of left): Anselmo e Pierluigi Falcoz, (Aug 09th, 1932).
  • N Wall (Punta Est): Anselmo Falcoz and Luigi Mondini (jul 05th, 1964).
  • N-E Arête: Gerolamo Segato, (1910).
  • E Wall: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, (Aug 25th, 1974).
  • S-SE Arête: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, (Jul 25th,1976).
  • S Wall (Punta West): Osvaldo Cardellina, (Jul 12th, 1990).

Getting There

BY CAR:

A) Pila
  • From the Aosta Est exit of the Motorway take SS 26 toward the city. Carefully follow the signs that point to the popular ski resort of Pila. Past the town of Pont Suaz, Strada Regionale n° 18 starts to climb; after a few hairpins it reaches the City of Charvensod 746m, 3 km from Aosta. Another 10 km will take you to the Village of Peroulaz 1382m; a final 5 or 6 km and a few more hairpins will eventually bring you to Pila 1807m.
B) Gimillan, Valle di Cogne
  • From Torino, Milano, etc: Motorway A5. Exit at Aosta Ovest. Drive to the nearby Aymavilles. Follow in the directions for Valle di Cogne.
  • From Switzerland: through the Grand St. Bernard Tunnel or the namesake pass). Drive to Aosta, then follow signs for Courmayeur along SS.26. Just past Sarre, turn left, in the direction of Valle di Cogne.
  • From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass). It isn't necessary to take Motorway A5, you can drive along SS.26 in the direction of Aosta. Before reaching the Village of Sarre, follow the sign and turn right towards Valle di Cogne.
    After Aymavilles, Regional Road n° 47 crosses the Villages of Vieyes (1142m), Epinel (1452m) and Cretaz (1499m) and then arrives at Cogne (1534m) after a total of about 25 Km. Follow the road signs for Gimillan and Lillaz to a round-about, recently built in proximity of the St. Anthony Chapel, then go left along the scenic route leading to the Village of Gimillan (1787m), 3 km from Cogne. Usually no parking problems.
BY PLANE:
  • "Corrado Gex" International Airport, Saint Christophe (Aosta).

Da sinistra: la becca di Nona...
From left: Becca di Nona (3142m), Monte Emilius (3559m),
Punta di Leppe (3305m), Punta Rossa dell'Emilius (3401m) and Punta Garin (3448m)

Route

Monte Emilius and the ridge between Vallone di Comboè and Comba di Arbolle
From left: Panoramic view from Colle Garin of the ridge between
Vallone di Comboè and Comba di Arbolle, Monte Emilius, Passo dei tre Cappuccini
and, on the right, the silhouette of the western summit of Punta Rossa.

From Pila: (famous and crowded ski resort just above Aosta - Cableway or Bus service), to the Chamolé Lake (2311m), using chairlift or on foot, and on to the homonymous pass (2641m), through it go down to the comfortable Refuge Alpe di Arbolle (2510m); toward East till the Lago Gelato (2956m), herefrom you must go up in direction of the almost always snow-covered north face of the Punta Rossa. From the Refuge paths 14 - 102. The route goes up to the close Colle di Arbolle (3154m), then, along the blocks and debris making up the NE ridge, leads to the Eastern summit (3400m), climbing a prominence at about 3200m (first on N side then on E side) requiring attention (exposed and bad quality rock). Going on along the ridge toward West the route leads to the Summit of Punta Rossa (3401m).

From Gimillan: (1787m) go right starting from the car park of Gimillan: after few meters the indications for Lussert Lakes, St. Marcel Pass, etc. are found. The pathway is indicated by the yellow circle 9A and by yellow strips marked on stones along the route. The path begins going immediately uphill, then the slope decreases as we go beyond a little Chapel dedicated to the Virgin (1836m). Soon the path resumes to go up and splits in two, before it begins to penetrate into the Grauson Valley: it's possible to continue following the right one that goes down as far as the Ecloseur Bridge (1904m), but in such a case we must go up again; it's better to follow the left one that, in practice without losing height, arrives at the bridge under the Alpeggio Pila (2025m), cross it and, following the stepped pathway, overcome the rocky bastion beside a fine waterfall (at the left). At this point the path turns right markedly, entering, high on the torrent, into a small valley; by an alternation of steep and slight slopes, it reaches a panoramic cross, on the edge of a pleasant plateau (superb view of the far La Grivola!). The path goes through the meadows, slightly descendind: after the Alpi di Grauson Vecchie (2271m), crosses the torrent on the Pikaciù Bridge and by a steep trail beside the stream, reach the wide upper part of the Grauson Valley. At the junction before Alpeggio Pralognan (about 2400m), instead of going straight ahead along the pathway n°4 leading to the head of Vallone di Grauson, go left till to Alpeggio Grauson Nuove (2540m), where once there was the burned Tentori Bivouac. Along grassy slopes toward the Lago Inferiore di Lussert (2721m), then aftee passing a prominence, to the Lago Medio (2800m) and to the Lago Superiore (2906m); herefrom, following toward South the stream, remount fastly to a 4th small lake, almost always iced (2926m). Following toward W across a small gorge and passing over the S spur of the Punta des Laures at about 3100m you can get the small basin under the Pas du Valaisan, easily accessible along debris.
The S-SW ridge is easy and requires some turnarounds on W side in its last part.

Advice: The S-SW ridge is to be avoided from Arbolle Valley, the access to Pas du Valaisan is very steep and dangerous for stone falls. On the contrary the access from Grauson/Lussert Valley is very easy and safe.
Best way to go down is toward Grauson/Lussert or along the NE ridge.

Equipment

High mountain gear: rope, ice axe, some bindings.

Huts

  • Rifugio Alpe Arbolle
 
Monte Emilius GROUP
Rifugio Alpe Arbolle

Difficulties

  • N-E ridge PD (low difficulties).
  • S-SW ridge EE, F+ (easy, can be climbed by experienced hikers).

 punta Garin, col Valaisan  and punta Rossa
Punta Garin 3448m, Pas du Valaisan 3196m and Punta Rossa dell'Emilius 3401m seen from Punta Laval 3091m.
From Lago Doreire
From the shore of Lago Doreire Superiore, in Vallone di Grauson, a view of the heart of the Emilius Group, including Punta Rossa between Tour Grauson (on the left) and Emilius (on the right).

Campings

Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2500m, from darkness until dawn).
Punta di Laures...
Punta di Laures (3367m) and Punta Rossa dell'Emilius (3401m), NE sides

Mountain Condition

  • Meteo: you can find all the needed informations at the official site of the Valle d'Aosta Region:
    Valle d'Aosta Meteo

Webcam

  • WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
    Webcam

Books and Maps

BOOKS:

  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
  • "Guida del Monte Emilius", di Osvaldo Cardellina Editore in collaborazione con il Club Alpino Italiano Sezione di Aosta, Dicembre 1978 (in Italian).
  • "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta", di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio, Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia–Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del Mont Avic", di Giulio Berutto e Lino Fornelli - Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, Marzo 2005 (in Italian).
  • "Ascensioni 1964-1969" Diario Alpinistico di Ilario Antonio Garzotto (unpublished).
  • "Diari Alpinistici", di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2013 (unpublished).
    MAPS:

    • Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta Turistica 1:50.000.
    • Hapax Luglio 2000 "Les Sentiers" Comunità Montana Monte Emilius 1:25,000.
    • L'Escursionista "Conca di Aosta-Pila-Monte Emilius" Carta dei sentieri (n°4) 1:25.000.
    • L'Escursionista "Valle di Cogne Carta dei Sentieri" (n°10) 1:25.000.
    • Enrico Editore Ivrea-Aosta "Gruppo del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
    • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Carta delle Passeggiate ed Escursioni in V.D.A. Conca di Pila-Gressan" 1:20.000.

    Important Information

    Useful numbers

    • Soccorso Alpino Cogne (SAR) Tel. 3482685406.
    • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
    • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
    • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

    Acknowledgements

    I am greatly indebted to my friend Osvaldo Cardellina for his fundamental support.

    Images