The famous 4.000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Ayas Valley)

The famous 4.000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Ayas Valley)

Aosta Valley/Suisse, Italy, Europe
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Overview

The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 4.000 meters peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the Dente del Gigante, Grandes Jorasses, Breithorn, Roc, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Lyskamm.
 
La Valle d'Aosta è una delle regioni italiane più conosciute nel mondo per suoi grandi Massicci Alpini, Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e Gran Paradiso. Ma ci sono anche altre moltissime vette famose di oltre 4.000 metri tra le quali si ricordano il Dente del Gigante, Les Grandes Jorasses, il Breithorn, il Castore, il Polluce, l'Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, il Roc, la Dent d'Hérens e i Lyskamm.

Ayas Valley (Monte Rosa)

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BREITHORN 4.165m
First ascent: Henry Maynard, Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean-Baptiste Herin, Jean-Jacques Herin and Jean Gras, (Aug 13th, 1813).
Difficulty: F.
Difference in height: About 685m. From Plateau Rosà.
Refuge: Rifugio Guide del Cervino (3.480m). Places when open: 40.
Ascent time: 3,30-4,00 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.
 
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ROCCIA NERA / SCHWARZFLUH 4.075m
First ascent: ohn Stafford Anderson, Ulrich Almer and Aloys Pollinger, (Aug 16th, 1884).
Difficulty: AD/AD+
Difference in height: About 600m. From Plateau Rosà.
Refuge: Rifugio Guide del Cervino (3.480m). Places when open: 40. Bivacco fisso Rossi-Volante (3.850m).
Ascent time: 4,30-5,30 hours.
Descent: From SW Wall or along the same route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.
 

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POLLUCE / POLLUX 4.091m
First ascent: Jules Jacot, Peter Taugwalder and Josef-Marie Perren, (Aug 01th, 1864).
Difficulty: PD+/AD-.
Difference in height: About 2.400m. From Saint-Jacques.
Refuge: Rifugio Guide della Valle d'Ayas (3.425m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 16 places.
Ascent time: 8,30-9,30 hours.
Descent: Along the ascent route.
Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia - Alpi Pennine (Vol. 2)" di Gino Buscaini - Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, Luglio 1970 (In Italian).
  • "Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2014 (inediti).
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta", di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio, Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
  • "I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.
MAPS:
  • Kompass "Breuil/Cervinia-Zermatt" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Cervino e Monte Rosa" 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. "Cervino Monte Rosa" Bologna 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Rosa Alagna e Macugnaga" (n° 10), 1:50.000.

Important Information

Useful Numbers

  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto n° 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Valanghe Tel. 0165-776300.
  • Bollettino Meteo Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.


Geography
Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.