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Fool's Gold

Fool's Gold

Fool\'s Gold

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Fool's Gold

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.6 trad

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Blair

Created/Edited: Oct 21, 2008 / Oct 21, 2008

Object ID: 455577

Hits: 2169 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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The MotherLode Wall is located near the Amphitheater, behind the Thunderbird and Claim Jumper Walls if coming from the Southern parking area. Fool's Gold is a great trad warm up, with good holds and gear most of the way up. The crack near the top takes gear, but not as easily as the bottom of the climb.
Rock quality, like most of Holcomb Valley, is good but sharp on the hands.

The MotherLode Wall is host to 8 sport routes ranging from 5.3 all the way to 5.11c, and all are easy to toprope, climbing the 5.3 to the top and setting anchors. There are 4 Trad climbs here as well. All anchors are in good shape as of 10-19-08.

Getting There

Please see Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Main Page to get to the Southern Parking Lot.
Southern Approach from Parking Lot Rock- Hike thru the forest on a climber's trail past a couple of boulders and walls until Coyote Crag comes into view, it will be the prominent rock outcropping to the North East. One can go many ways to get to the MotherLode Wall from here by going around to the right of Coyote Crag (Best Approach) and continuing on a climber's trail around the back to the base of the MotherLode Wall. Or you can go straight to the Amphitheater ( The area between the Thunderbird and Claim Jumper Walls) and hike up between these walls to get to MotherLode Wall, which sits behind these crags. Turn Left on a faint trail once you have passed these two crags and the MotherLode Wall will be right there.

Route Description

Blocky holds to start with good stopper placements ( #9 or #10 BD) lead around a chockstone right in the middle where the crack starts up to the top. Plenty of good holds aside from the crack as well. Straight up the crack to the top where a good eyelid anchor sits. Rap or lower off.

Essential Gear

-Set of Stoppers
-Cams or Friends to 2"
-Anchor Setup

This route can be done with stoppers only.

First Ascent

Chris Miller, who did many FA's in Holcomb Valley as it was developed in the late 80's and early 90's.


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