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klwagarwest ridge/east ledges  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009

klwagar

Beautiful day, lots of marmots! Even one near the summit. Route in perfect conditions.
Posted Jul 1, 2009 6:21 am

TheRootsterAnother NOLS summit  Sucess!

TheRootster

That was a good summer...1984. Years later I was in Talkeetna, Alaska, and took a stroll through the cemetery, which has a marker listing all the mountaineers who have bit the big one on the local peaks. Alas. there I saw the name of one of my NOLS instructors from this trip...Tom Walter...who died in an avalanche on Mt Foraker in 1992. Happy Trails, Tom!
Posted Jun 23, 2009 12:48 am

Tom FralichWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009

Tom Fralich

Bill Ayers and I climbed this classic route in beautiful clear weather despite a non-ideal forecast. We hiked up to camp in Boston Basin and only felt a few sprinkles. When we woke up, the tent was totally engulfed in cloud, but we set off following the track towards Forbidden. At around 4:30, we broke out of the cloud and watched a fantastic sunrise, with peaks poking through the cloud layer in every direction. We reached the ridge at 6AM and simul-climbed to the summit in about 90 minutes. The descent went quickly and we even managed to score a ride in a dump truck back to the trailhead.
Posted Jun 13, 2009 12:17 am

lloydWest Ridge  Sucess!

lloyd

The coulior was in great shape for us, but new snow on the ridge made for slow going. We had the route to ourselves and visibility was nill. We got back down the coulior right before dark with still limited visibility and ended up bivying. Next time I'll bring a gps and wait for clear weather!
Posted Sep 6, 2008 11:01 pm

joepaWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008

joepa

Climbed WR with Kristy. Had to use rock gully to left of snow couloir. Descended east ledges.
Posted Aug 8, 2008 7:43 pm

kgriggsEast Ridge Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007

kgriggs

Climbed it with JoePa read two below this.
Posted Sep 28, 2007 5:31 pm

DBakerNot so forbidden, now eh?!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007

DBaker

North Ridge route- low to mid 5th class rock with some rather steep (and somewhat slushy) snow sections. Took a solid 3 hours of wandering to find our camp again, however- mark it with GPS or somesuch, it all looks the same in the dark.
Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:27 pm

joepaEast Ridge Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007

joepa

Great climb, good exposure. Just under 8 hours from BB to summit. East ledges descent not bad at all. 5 rappels, traverse and downclimb to the gully. About 3.5 hours from summit back to camp. Hurried back to the car in 1.5 hours.
Posted Sep 10, 2007 3:00 pm

jasonconnellWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007

jasonconnell

Great climb on great rock! Hiked into Boston Basin Friday night, climbed Forbidden Saturday and camped in the Basin again, Sunday Climbed Sahale and descended via Sahale Arm.
Posted Jul 12, 2007 5:48 pm

PantilatWest Ridge and East ledges  Sucess!

Pantilat

West Ridge (2005) and East ledges (2006) in 2.5 hours from car to summit
Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:22 am

Casey BatesEpic day.
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2006

Casey Bates

This climb is the single reason I am now motivated to learn how to lead trad; I could not switch leads with my partner and he was beat. We got off route in the gully and could not finish ascent. Witnessed sunrise and sunset from the glacier below the couloir. Huge rock calved off in basin below our rappel.
Posted Oct 10, 2006 11:12 pm

OutdoorpartnerRained out
Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006

Outdoorpartner

Waited around at base camp for a weather window, but it was still too wet. I recommend waiting until at least July to try climbing this mountain.
Posted Oct 5, 2006 5:29 am

Steve LarsonTorment-Forbidden traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006

Steve Larson

Did the West Ridge as part of the Torment-Forbidden traverse w/ dug. Stunning views, lots of fun and lots of smoke from the fires in E. Washington.
Posted Aug 29, 2006 11:34 pm

thundercloudWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006

thundercloud

Climbed with the clucksters, but who is the real climbing chicken? Enjoyed the WR rock a ton! Gully not great either way. First 1.5 miles of approach were a chore, but not bad afterwards. Set up bivy in the woods prior to park boundary, as we couldn't get a Boston Basion permit...permits full, but didn't seem to be that many folks up there. Beware of the viscious attacking marmots.
Posted Aug 16, 2006 4:19 pm

Aaron DyerWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006

Aaron Dyer

We also had trouble descending the west ridge snow gully. Could have used 2 ropes or another descent.
Posted Aug 15, 2006 3:12 pm

cluckWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006

cluck

Snow in the coulior was mostly melted so we opted for the 2nd gully to the left which Becky describes as 4th class down low and grassy 3rd class above. Description was correct but fails to mention that the gulley is loose and offers little protection. In my opinion, this gully was the emotional crux of the route. Climbed the ridge and only met one other party (who was doing the Torment-Forbidden traverse). Downclimbing back to the notch took as long as going up. Raps in the gully were problematic and wasted some time freeing stuck ropes. Nice to have 2 X 60M which got us to the snow. What I've learned from this trip? If you do Forbidden West ridge, go earlier in the season so you can climb snow in the couloir.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 10:26 pm

OznidRoute Climbed: East Ridge Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006

Oznid

This route is harder, more exposed than the west ridge. Of course, it's lots of fun. Great views of the Boston Glacier. Watch out for rope drag!
Posted Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am

OznidWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2005

Oznid

Did this as part of the traverse. The west ridge is great - an easy romp on great rock with out-of-control views!
Posted Jul 29, 2006 2:33 am

setrentRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!
The couloir is the crux of this route. Steep snow and a moat, or loose unprotectable fourth class rock are your options. Once on the ridge, the cimbing is moderate, and the views are outstanding. Well worth the trouble to get there. Downclimbed the entire route as well as the couloir. Climbed the East Ridge on 07-12-08. This is a much better route than the West Ridge. An easy approach, better climbing, and a straight forward descent make it a pleasurable outing.
Posted Dec 23, 2005 2:01 am

marcminishRoute Climbed: East Ridge Direct Date Climbed: September 8, 2005  Sucess!

marcminish

The approach was a long tedious talus field. We did not have to cross a glacier except for a small ten foot section. We did not use our crampons. The technical parts of the route were fun but the descent was a nightmare. If I had it over, I would definitely pick a different climb because the good parts did not justify the long approach and dangerous descent. Climbed with fellow SPer Paul Ivaska.
Posted Sep 20, 2005 10:17 am

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