North Cascades > Forbidden Peak > Climber's LogForbidden Peak Climber's Log
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| dan-o | Fun Route  Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2012 | |
| Great way to finish the endless summer of 2012. | |
| Posted Jan 8, 2013 10:44 am | ||
| Diggler | better luck next time Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2011 | |
| Attempt with Faith. After doing the grueling approach in the rain the previous day/eve, camp & mountain were socked in the next morning. Didn't clear up until 11ish, & we both decided that would be way too late of a start. Boston Basin in beautiful, at any rate, & I plan to be back :) | |
| Posted Oct 3, 2012 3:59 pm | ||
| Josh Lewis | Great Climb via West Ridge Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2012 | |
| I agree with Matt's statement. The route was pretty mellow but was a lot of fun. But I admit I was a bit tired when it was over. The glacier is very melted out, now it's getting to the point where the crevasses reach rock bottom. I would definitely recommend this to a friend. | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2012 12:56 am | ||
| Matt Lemke | West Ridge Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2012 | |
| Climbed the west ridge in late season. Not much snow on the approach glacier. We climbed the western most scratch gully to the west of the major snow gully due to all the snow melted out. This was class 3 and 4. Contrary to what is said below, the gully was quite nice and NOWHERE near as loose as we were told. A few cams made it easy while simul-climbing up. I never thought the climbing on the ridge itself was harder than 5.5 | |
| Posted Sep 22, 2012 11:37 pm | ||
| zoomloco | east to west c2c | |
| incredible route (east ridge) and setting. highly recommended, amazing alpine route with excellent exposure. west ridge downclimb was nice too, rapping not necessary. Labor day 2011. One party on west ridge, no one else on mountain. c2c ~14 hours | |
| Posted Sep 13, 2011 3:32 pm | ||
| SKI | 12 Hours West Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011 | |
| C2C. Lot's of people on the ridge unfortunately. The descent via the ledges was horrible what a pile of cat litter. Be careful with people rapping above you. Good chance you'll be dodging missiles! | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2011 9:26 pm | ||
| ExcitableBoy | West Ridge. North Ridge | |
| Climbed the West Ridge as my first mixed snow and rock alpine climb. Nice intro. Did the North Ridge from the toe, car to car in a day with MVS. | |
| Posted Dec 28, 2010 9:16 am | ||
| apachedino | Do NOT climb the "4th class" gully Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2010 | |
| The supposedly 4th class gully to the left of the coulior is full of a heinous amount of loose rock that many times gives the impression of being solid until you pull on it. Some very large boulders (almost car size) would move if pulled on. I would highly recommend not doing the 4th class gully. It was wet and full of steep vegetation and had very, very few options for protection. That said, we had great weather and the views are amazing. Would like to come back and try the coulior when it is in season as this peak and surroundings are absolutely gorgious. Once out of the gully things were fine, but we had started too late and were not making the fast time we had hoped after being rejected by the coulior and making slow scary progress in the gully. Flying/driving/hiking in the day prior and getting a little lost in the dark after leaving the woods the day before had worn on us and 8 AM is not an alpine start, especially in September. | |
| Posted Sep 25, 2010 12:34 am | ||
| PeakBeggar | west ridge Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2010 | |
| did not get to the top because of novice exposure experience. Our "guide" wanted to keep moving up over the crux and beyond but myself and another wanted to head down. Also due to our slow pace | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2010 3:40 am | ||
| Buckaroo | West Ridge Solo Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1994 | |
| Did the rock to the left of the initial couloir. Met a buddy of mine on the route who was also soloing. | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2009 12:40 pm | ||
| MountaingirlBC | Oh Yeah! Life is Good! Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009 | |
| Most excellent day out on bomber rock (well, once you top out of the gully anyway!). Simulclimbed the West Ridge in approach shoes. Nothing hard... just spectacular views and super fun climbing. Scary rock fall in the gully made things more interesting than we would have liked. Set up a proper rap station with a rap ring near the top but that still only gets you 2/3 of the way down. | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2009 3:44 pm | ||
| lukic | East Ridge Direct Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2009 | |
| Fun, easy route. Just under 13 hours car to car. The East Ledges were a pretty straight forward descent route. | |
| Posted Jul 20, 2009 1:29 am | ||
| klwagar | west ridge/east ledges Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009 | |
| Beautiful day, lots of marmots! Even one near the summit. Route in perfect conditions. | |
| Posted Jul 1, 2009 6:21 am | ||
| TheRootster | Another NOLS summit | |
| That was a good summer...1984. Years later I was in Talkeetna, Alaska, and took a stroll through the cemetery, which has a marker listing all the mountaineers who have bit the big one on the local peaks. Alas. there I saw the name of one of my NOLS instructors from this trip...Tom Walter...who died in an avalanche on Mt Foraker in 1992. Happy Trails, Tom! | |
| Posted Jun 23, 2009 12:48 am | ||
| Tom Fralich | West Ridge Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009 | |
| Bill Ayers and I climbed this classic route in beautiful clear weather despite a non-ideal forecast. We hiked up to camp in Boston Basin and only felt a few sprinkles. When we woke up, the tent was totally engulfed in cloud, but we set off following the track towards Forbidden. At around 4:30, we broke out of the cloud and watched a fantastic sunrise, with peaks poking through the cloud layer in every direction. We reached the ridge at 6AM and simul-climbed to the summit in about 90 minutes. The descent went quickly and we even managed to score a ride in a dump truck back to the trailhead. | |
| Posted Jun 13, 2009 12:17 am | ||
| lloyd | West Ridge | |
| The coulior was in great shape for us, but new snow on the ridge made for slow going. We had the route to ourselves and visibility was nill. We got back down the coulior right before dark with still limited visibility and ended up bivying. Next time I'll bring a gps and wait for clear weather! | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2008 11:01 pm | ||
| joepa | West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008 | |
| Climbed WR with Kristy. Had to use rock gully to left of snow couloir. Descended east ledges. | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2008 7:43 pm | ||
| kgriggs | East Ridge Direct Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007 | |
| Climbed it with JoePa read two below this. | ||
| Posted Sep 28, 2007 5:31 pm | ||
| DBaker | Not so forbidden, now eh?! Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007 | |
| North Ridge route- low to mid 5th class rock with some rather steep (and somewhat slushy) snow sections. Took a solid 3 hours of wandering to find our camp again, however- mark it with GPS or somesuch, it all looks the same in the dark. | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:27 pm | ||
| joepa | East Ridge Direct Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007 | |
| Great climb, good exposure. Just under 8 hours from BB to summit. East ledges descent not bad at all. 5 rappels, traverse and downclimb to the gully. About 3.5 hours from summit back to camp. Hurried back to the car in 1.5 hours. | |
| Posted Sep 10, 2007 3:00 pm | ||
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