Sierra Mountaineering Club - French Direct Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2016
An expedition team organized and supported by Sierra Mountaineering Club out of California climbed this route in July 2016. Two teams of three successfully summited. This is a spectacular mountain and an amazingly aesthetic ice route, well worth the attention it gets.
Had a lot of fun on this one after climbing Quitaraju's NF. Started from camp at 10:30 am due to many climbers on route. By than majority were getting off. Got back to camp at 4:30pm. 6 hours camp to camp.
First big mountain ascent. Amazing ice once we got a bit above the bergschrund. Shared the route with 4 other rope teams (total of 10 climbers) which made for a lot of debris being knocked back down the route.
Climbed with T. Haines. First 2.5 pitches after bergshrund were good snow then it turned into ice at flutings. First pitch of ice was short and about 75* at most and not very great ice, but not bad. Seven pitches on ice total. Last six pitches had amazing, very plastic ice. Last pitch had a short section of 80*-85* ice for 20´ then the second half of the pitch was steep snow that tools didn´t really hold on, but a little balance gets you to the top. Amazing mountain. Amazing route. Ferrari was closed due to a huge cornice on the summit ridge.