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From Koritnica valley, north ridge
Route

From Koritnica valley, north ridge

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.37000°N / 13.67000°E

Object Title: From Koritnica valley, north ridge

Route Type: Climbing UIAA III/II, ferrata

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Walk up and secured climbing

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Feb 28, 2005 / Feb 28, 2005

Object ID: 164132

Hits: 2015 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


a
The view on Koritnica valley from the top of Jalovec.

The starting point is the village Log pod Mangartom that is approachable over the border pass Predel (from the north side) or from the village Bovec (from the SW side). The village Log pod Mangartom is located on the start of the Koritnica valley.

Route Description


From the parking space on the start of Koritnica valley first you walk some kilometers in the long valley. Then you come on the crossing and there the valley becomes steeper. To the left goes the marked route on the Kotovo sedlo (pass) and on the Managrt. To the right goes the route on the pass Cez Brezice (1980m) and then on the notch Skrbina za Gradom (2277m). You follow the signposts for the right route.

a
Jalovec above Koritnica valley.

You start ascending steeply over the scree slopes to the foothills o the west face of Veliki Ozebnik and Jalovec. When you come to the start of the face you will climb some meters over the face with help of iron ropes. Your goal is the valley between the Plesivec (2185m) and Mali Ozebnik (2324m). After the climbing you will ascend steeply in valley and you will admire beautiful faces of Plesivec (on the right) and of Jalovec (on the left).

Soon you will reach the pass Cez Brezice. From the south side comes the marked route from Bavscica valley.. But you continue in the east direction to the notch Skrbina za Gradom. You must be careful on secured parts.

On the notch you leave the marked route and start ascending in the south direction to the north ridge of Pelc nad Klonicami. Now we start climbing on the ridge but first we climb in some small ravines then higher we come on the ridge. Climbing is around UIAA III but mostly around UIAA II. Some parts are airy and if you have some good feeling for orientation you cannot have big problems. Just before the summit you will reach the small notch and then over the airy upper part you will come on the summit.

You descend by the same route. On some parts maybe it`s good descend with help of the rope.

Only for good climbers. This route is very long and you must have good weather!


Essential Gear


Good hiking shoes, helmet, rope and other climbing equipment.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.