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From Velika Dnina
Route

From Velika Dnina

 
From Velika Dnina

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Object Title: From Velika Dnina

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: UIAA II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Aug 11, 2004 / Jan 4, 2007

Object ID: 161790

Hits: 2865 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Approach

 
The valley Velika dnina.
Velika Dnina

The tour on Oltar from west starts in Bivouac I (in Velika Dnina), 2180m, which is also the starting point for many other tours in surrounding mountains. So, let me first describe how to reach the bivouac.

The long wall, which Skrlatica and the neighbouring mountains show toeards west (beautifully seen from Vrsic) ends on the northern side in Velika Dnina basin. So, the bivouac there can be reached from Krnica valley (see the approach of Krnica hut on the main page).

From the mountain hut in Krnica, 1218m, we go by the marked route towards east, as for the normal approach on Spik from south. The marked path first goes by the long ravine, called Gruntovnica (actually coming from Spikova skrbina). Where the marked path for Spik turns left out of the ravine, we continue by the ravine, till it splits, or actually divides in many smaller. Here we turn ringt, where it's most easy and ascend steep over grass and terraces all the time towards right. Although it is not marked, we can follow a tiny path. When we reach a steep, rocky ravine, we use it to go straight uphills, climbing over a few easy steps and finally exiting on broad screes under the north face of Skrlatica. From here on we cross screes on their bottom part towards left, orienting ourselves on the lowest rocks of Velika Ponca pillar. There's a bivouac. But it is hanged some 50 meters above the bottom of rocks, so we must ascend screes on the right and use a narrow ledge to reach the bivouac. From Krnica hut 2h 30min.

Route Description

 
The route from the valley Velika Dnina on Veliki Oltar
On the summit ridge

From the Bivouac I we continue the ascent right of Velika Ponca rocks, allways over scree till their upper part. We shall enter an open rock face, not hard for climbing, which is falling from the notch between Velika Ponca (on the left) and Oltar (on the right). We continue over easy rocks and soon discover that we can best advance by a narrow ravine. When it gets closed, we seek for a passage on the right side of the rock (or over the rock - there's a peg on top of it) and continue above the barrier over easy rocks towards the notch. One more narrow ledge on the northern side of a rocky barrier and we reach the notch. Till here, you can also reach from north, from Martuljek over Kacji jezik (Snake tongue - usually snowfield).

From the notch towards the summit of Veliki Oltar a ridge leads, which has only one bad point - it is too short! Climbing by it is so beautiful and joyfull, never harder than 1st degree, open on both sides and it hits the summit itself.

From Bivouac I to the summit you'll need less than 2 hours.

Essential Gear

Good shoes, a short rope, a helmet.


Overall grading (by hiking standards)

On Sasa's beautiful picture below the screes (snowfields) below Skrlatica are seen, the pillar of Velika Ponca (mountain on the right) and Veliki Oltar - the summit next to it.



0. General: from 1218m (hut in Krnica) to 2621m (summit), exposition W, not marked (only partially weak trail) rock climb.
1. Effort: 1400m, 4h 30min,
2. Power: 4 - hard,
3. Psyche: 4 - hard,
4. Orientation: 4 - hard.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

The Winter conditions in...The panorama of Martuljek...The route from the valley Velika Dnina on Veliki OltarSkrlatica NW sideThe valley Velika dnina.