Page Type: Route
Tyrol, Austria, Europe
47.56170°N / 12.30270°E
Half a day
Created/Edited: Jul 22, 2003 / Nov 14, 2006
Object ID: 158354
Page Score: 73.06%
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South below Ellmauer Halt
See the main page! To Gruttenhuette you need from Wochenbrunnen Alp 1h 30min. From the hut you continue northwards by a marked path to the route entry (around 30 minutes).
Jaegerwand The traverse below the South wall
Approaching the south face of Ellmauer Halt, the marked path goes north-eastwards, where it enters good grassy ledges, which cross the whole south face towards the Rote Rinnscharte (2099m). The ledges are comfortable, although narrow and in the beginning they are not secured with iron. Before the Rote Rinnscharte a few passages are secured with pegs and steel cables, but there are no major difficulties. Then comes the Jaegerwand, across which a ladder of pegs helps (just a meter below is scree, and this "famous pasage" looks strange to me; may be, it is because of snow).
Just below the summitClimbing and scrambling again upwards, we soon reach the west ridge. The direction is more and more turning to the right (eastwards) and soon we reach the point where route divides in two variants. The right one is probably more beautiful. It climbs vertically over a step, uses a few narrow ledges and reaches the broad ledge, named Maximilian-Strasse. Also the right route must climb over a vertical passage (ladder), which lies at the end of a narrow ravine. After the both routes join, you climb easily over scree and ledges to the small wooden hut, standing just below the summit. To the big cross you have now only a minute or two.
Essential GearThe route is exposed to hot sun, so start early. Be aware of lightning, which on Ellmauer Halt represents one of major dangers. On the upper part there is some danger of falling debris, so a helmet may also be a useful part of equipment.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.