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Gannett Peak Climber's Log

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tigerlillyIf at first you don't succeed


Gosh, is my party the only group that didn't make it?! ha. Camped near Island Lake then in Titcomb Valley (gorgeous). Hoofed it up Bonny Pass (loose rubble). Glaciers running with little rivers of water. Crevasses were all small and you could walk over them easily. Up Gooseneck Glacier... discovered the snow bridge over the bergshrund was melted out. My husband's crampon broke, which he fixed with his wedding ring! Our group pretty much chickened out after seeing the hard ice choice. Hiked back quickly and dodged a nice lightening storm when we got back to our tents! eeek! We'll try again next summer! If you camp at Titcomb, go in and up as far as possible. Start out early on summit day. We left at 5:00am, which in retrospect was a little late. Eat a good breakfast, too! You'll need the energy! August might be too late, too. I think you'll have an easier time going over Bonny Pass in June, when it still has snow on it. have fun!
Posted Sep 5, 2007 4:07 pm

atavistNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2007


Started pre-dawn from Titcomb Basin, the glaciers required careful navigation, summitted via the North Face and arrived back to camp after dark.
Posted Aug 28, 2007 1:46 am

timstab3 Day ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007


3 days on glacier trail. lots of beautiful scenery and an excellent summit day. No ropes just crampons and axe for the steep snow next to gooseneck pinnacle. Standard route was pretty easy.the hike in took more effort the the peak. well worth it
Posted Jul 27, 2007 1:46 pm

lonewolf2401Second Time Lucky  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2007


Wow, what an experience! Our party of four left on the New Glacier Trail on July 14th, and took 2 1/2 days to make high camp just short of the Tarns. Woke at 0400 for an 0530 trip through the boulder field from hell. Met up with three great folks from Poland who had traversed from the Bonney Pass Route. We all proceeded up the standard route to the snow bridge, which was in great shape. Above that, things got interesting, to say the least. The snow slope turned out to be almost all hard ice, with only a few narrow channels of climbable snow. A rope belay from above was used on the right side of the chute, with crampons and ice axe having almost no purchase in the ice. The remainder of the route was awesome, with some easy snow on the summit traverse. We all enjoyed beautiful summit weather, and then saw the grey puffy clouds we all know and love, moving in fast. On the descent of the snow chute, we rigged a rope belay from the highest rock outcropping and began down one by one. In the middle of this fun, while scrambling for traction, it began to rain! Those of us who had to wait halfway down the gully for the others to downclimb got very cold feet, since all of our socks and boots were soaked from the slushy snow. We all made it down and the weather cleared nicely. The next day, we could visibly see the snow gully had become even more icy since our climb. Be advised this part of the climb will prove very difficult from this point on, and a nice alternative route would be the rock rib to the left of the gully. Don't know how long the snow bridge will remain, but it looked good when we left. This trip was my most rewarding ever, with the trip on the Glacier Trail being all the equal of the summit climb itself. I will have photos posted soon. Good luck, climb safe, and happy trails!
Posted Jul 21, 2007 11:10 pm

paclimberThird time's the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2007


Third attempt in three years and finally made it to this awesome summit. From Elkhart Park Trailhead, over Bonney Pass, and then standard Gooseneck Route. State Highpoint # 45.
Posted Jul 19, 2007 6:01 pm

The VorFirst Big Mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2007

The Vor

Awesome climb up standard gooseneck route. Actually wondered over a little to dinwoody glacier and saw quite the large crevasse. Low Snow year so wasn't quite what i was hoping but still had a blast. GREAT AREA.
Posted Jul 16, 2007 3:22 pm

jvarholakalone atop wyoming  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007


Elkhart Park TH to Island Lake to upper Titcomb Basin. Camped at base of Mt. Helen (several awesome lines up Helen....next time).....2am departure over bonney pass for the team....team summitted at 8am (without me, as I hadn't slept in 4+ days and couldn't bear the thought of bonking on the Dinwoody and spoiling anyone's summit attempt).....the Winds are perhaps the most beautiful range in the lower 48.....bluebird days....unforgetable!!!!
Posted Jun 30, 2007 4:48 pm

The edgeHP #50!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2005

The edge

Success at last...
WOW #50...
I am so happy and proud you don't even know it!!!;
#149 in the 50 HP club...
First canadian, first international outside the US...
Posted Mar 14, 2007 4:25 pm

hockeymanAnother solo trip  Sucess!


Hiked in off the reservation. Dinwoody route. Very intimidating as a solo. It was along way in and wiht no one else a accident would have been deadly. Full gear was used and required. Lots of snow. This was my first big mountain solo. Was living in Lander at the time.
Posted Mar 7, 2007 5:10 pm

skunk apeTitcomb basin  Sucess!

skunk ape

Soloed from Bonney pass, Snowy day but fun.
Posted Feb 27, 2007 2:00 am

patascentGooseneck Glacier to the Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2006


Camped on top of Bonney Pass...beautiful star filled sky and not a single mosquitoe. Left for the summit at 4 a.m. No snow until we reached the glacier. Made our way to the Gooseneck pinacle and dropped about 10 feet into the Bergshrund. Fun climb/ice traverse on the way out. Two steep snow pitches and then mostly rock scrambling to the summit. We rapelled the steep snow and the bergshrund on the way down, made our way across the glacier, up Bonney pass, broke down camp, descend Bonney pass and hiked out as far as we could until it got dark...what a day. Wind Rivers are amazing. Can't wait to go back without the climbing gear.
Posted Feb 11, 2007 3:56 am

mtnhxcRoute Climbed: Gooseneck Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2005


I climbed Gannett during the third week of my NOLS course after comming up the Grasshopper and Gannett Glaciers from the Orange Wall. We camped at about 11,250' directly below the Grasshopper Glacier, and climbed the glacier and the ridge to the summitt the next day. The weather was perfect and the views were amazing, especially the sunrise from about halfway up the Gooseneck Glacier. We left the next day via Bonney Pass and Knapsack Col before camping about a mile west of Peak Lake. Excellent climbing and one of the most memorable parts of my course.
Posted Nov 6, 2006 4:33 pm

PellucidWombatNice Dayhike via Titcomb Basin-Gooseneck Pinnacle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2006


I had a twisted plan to hike this peak in less than 24 hrs RT from the Pole Creek Trailhead and on August 21st I carried out this plan with my friend Joel Wilson. We started out extremely sleep deprived, which slowed us down, but we still managed to complete the hike in 23:36! See our trip report for more info and photos.
Posted Aug 24, 2006 8:42 pm

osatrikSHP # 36, in 1990  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 1990


Number 36 of my 49 state high points, number 35 for Vanessa. We went with a group of 8 we hooked up with via Highpointers. We sat out a snow squall in a bergschrund on the way up, and waited out a thunderstorm above the Gooseneck Pinnacle on the descent. But what a wonderful adventure. We did a 5-day trip from the north (Debois) side, and had a packer bring in our climbing gear.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 8:04 pm

Mountain JimStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 1993

Mountain Jim

Long approach, but it's more than worth it. Beautiful peak in a beautiful mountain range.
Posted Aug 2, 2006 2:31 am

zoinkElkhart-Titcomb-Northface  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006


Started from Elkhart went up Titcomb. Summited on the northface. Had to leave the glacier as a crevasse had openened up. Covered the last 700 or so verticle feet on rock. Took about 13 hours largly due to slowness on my part.
Posted Aug 1, 2006 9:37 pm

AlpinistCold Springs - Gooseneck Glacier Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2006


Classic and challenging climb. My partner and I were the only ones on the mountain that day. This is my 16th state highpoint and the most challenging so far, mostly due to the long approach.

Trip report.
Posted Jul 30, 2006 8:04 pm

SawtoothSeanTop of Wyoming  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006


Used the Elkhart Park Trailhead to Titcomb Basin the first day. Summitted without use of ropes or protection on day 2 and out on day 3. The glacier was mostly closed up and the steep snow was stable and great for steps. The most challenging part was the approach with a large pack. Save some weight and leave the pickets, ropes, harness, ice-screws home if your going in July and have some experience.
Posted Jul 17, 2006 4:38 am

IamLubosjune climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006


6 day trip from the Dubois side with 4 other guys. We summitted on the fourth day. The route to the top was much more technical than I had expected. Gannett makes Rainier feel like a walk in the park. However, it was a very rewarding climb with a superb scenery. TR is at http://www.iamlubos.com/highpoints/gannett/gannett.htm
Posted Jul 7, 2006 2:44 am

NanitaDFrom Trail Lakes Ranch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 1993


The "Woolly Bully" expedition hiked the Glacier trail by Double Lake, Star Lake, and Honeymoon Lake. On our second day we were excited when we finally glimpsed Gannett and our route up the Gooseneck Glacier. The next day we had a magnicificant day for our climb. Returning to our camp by about 4:00 we celebrated with backcounty "Yukaritas" made with limeade, Y.J. (Yukon Jack) and clean glacier snow. We mixed some "decent helper" made of Y.J. and wildberry punch to help us down boogie on down the unending switchbacks to the Trail Ranch Lakes trailhead.
Posted Mar 31, 2006 1:06 am

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