The ascent over its NW ridge is a nice, very easy climbing route. In winter, despite of one of the biggest ski arena (Nassfeld) in Carinthia nerby, the tour ski descent from the summit is still a pleasure. And if you have the logistics and decide to ski down towards the north, you already have a real tour. In summer, for a real hiker, the ascent from Moederndorf parking place, 612m, through Garnitzenklamm (canyon), on Kuehwegeralm (1480), Kuehwegertoerl (1914) and by the NW ridge to the summit would be one of the finest in the region – due to its variety, big elevation gain and at the end already easy climbing details. Finally in the north towers of Gartnerkofel harder climbs are also possible.
As a curiosity - the summit also has its Slovenian name: Krniske skale. Not so long ago also the lower part of Zilja valley was partly populated by Slovenian people.
The geography of this small massif is seen on the map below. The summit has two heads. Towards the North many ravines are falling, separated by wild rocky ridges. The NE ridge consists of three towers, named Gartnerkofeltuerme, the NW ridge is similar, but more compact. It sends three ravines towards Nassfeld, between them rises an interest tower, called Wilderturm. South of the main summit a separate ridge is stretching in the W-E direction. On the other side of the saddle there's first the Suedgipfel (South Peak), 2154m. A rocky ridge is then going towards the E and finally reaches Kuehwegerkofel, 2136m.
Otherwise the geology of this area is very diverse. While the upper rocks are made of Schlern Dolomite (some 228-237 million years old), lower layers of rocks (specially on the southern side of the massif - mountains: Meledis, Pizzul, Auernig, Corona, Carnizza) are of Carbon-Perm sedimentary rocks.
The upper part is too complex to discuss it more here, but it illustrates why the canyon of Garnitzenklamm has such a great rock diversity. The lower part is showing how the highest, most rocky part of Gartnerkofel is made of Schlern dolomite (Middle Triassic - Ladinian, some 230 million years old).
Getting ThereFor a broader view see: Carnic Alps – Eastern part.
When reaching Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo you can drive up the hill by a mountain road till Plattner Haus, 1625m. From there the summit can be reached in 1:30h. And there's yet another option. From below the pass (on Austrian side) a chair-lift can bring you up the hill till the altitude of 1880m. To the summit there is only some 45min walk-up.
Garnitzen Klamm (canyon, gorge) can be entered from below from Moederndorf. You turn in Hermagor/Mokrine towards the south and drive till the end parking place on 612m.
Hikes and easy climbs
The summary of hiking and scrambling routes, graded by hiking standards. If you know more routes, please let us know.
1. SW approach
Easy walk-up. Good path. Very frequented. You can use a chair-lift till 1880m.
2. NW ridge
3. Through Garnitzenklamm
Long ascent. Nice gorge. End part like #2. Tip: Have a bike on Nassfeld pass.
4. Nassfeld ski tour
Medium hard ski tour. You can use a chair-lift till 1880m.
5. Ski tour over Kuehwegeralm
You ski down on the other side, so think how to come back on Nassfeld.
1. South-west approach. From Watschiger Alm, 1625m, or from the upper station of Gartnerkofel chair-lift, 1880m, to the saddle between the south summit, and the main summit, from there to the top. 1:30h from Watschiger Alm or 0:45h from the chair-lift station. Easy, marked.
2. North-west ridge. From Watschiger Alm, 1625m, on Kuehwegertoerl, 1914m, and by the ridge on top. 2:00h, marked, easy climb (UIAA I). Very nice!
3. Through Garnitzenklamm. From Moederndorf parking place, 612m, through the beautiful Garnitzenklamm (gorge), on Kuehwegeralm, 1480m, further on Kuehwegertoerl, 1914m, and by the NW ridge to the summit. Descend on Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo, where the deposited bike is waiting for you! Zoom down to your car! Great tour, combining a beautiful gorge, alpine meadows, easy climb and joyful bike descent. Good 6 hours of ascent, all the route is marked!
4. Nassfeld ski tour. Over ordinary ski slopes from Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo (or by chair-lift). On the upper part same as #1. From the saddle 2 hours. Medium hard ski tour (only on top a bit steeper).
5. Ski tour over Kuehwegeralm. Start on Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo and ascend the summit like in #5 (2 hours). From the summit ski down by the ascent route only till the saddle between the main summit and the Suedgipfel, 2154m. There turn left, towards the SE, and ski down the nice valley. Where distinct rocks are splitting the valley, take the left passage (towards the N) and ski down to Kuehwegeralm. From there use a mountain road to ski down in Gail valley. If you don't have two cars, go to the ski arena and take a cable-car up to Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo.
- SW wall. G. Renker, 1930. II, I.
- SW pillar, Direct route. F. and P. Unterluggauer, 1987. V (can be detoured), IV, 200 m.
- SW wall, Direct route. II, I, 200 m.
- N wall. L. Patera, 1904. I.
- NE ridge. J. Kollnitz, H. Raditschnig, K. Wiggisser, 1929. II, I.
- Wilder Turm, N wall. Unknown climbers. IV, IV-, III, 100 m.
- Wilder Turm, E wall. F. Wiegele, H. Strobl, S. Lederer, 1970. V+, 20 m.
- Wilder Turm, S pillar. S. Szöke, W. Dauschan, 1987. VI+ (right entry), V+ (left entry), V+, V, 90 m.
- Wilder Turm, S wall. P. Holl, H. Gallhuber, 1977. A2, A1, AE, IV+, IV, 130 m.
- Wilder Turm, W pillar. F. Steinwendner, M. Truppe, 1970. IV, III. 180 m.
- S summit, E ridge. I. Ridge can be reached on several places, we detour difficulties by the left side.
- S summit, N wall. P. Holl, F. Wiegele, H. Gallhuber, 1978. V-, IV, 200 m.
- S summit, S pillar. F. Unterluggauer, W and F. Wiegele, 1985. IV, III. 400 m.
- S summit, SW couloir. F. Wiegele, F. Unterluggauer, 1987. IV, in winter 70°, 200 m.
- S summit, S tower, N wall. Wiegele, H. Glantschnig, 1985. III, 25 m.
- Däumling, NE edge. F. Wiegele, Lamp, 1954. V, IV-, 30 m.
- Däumling, W edge. P. Holl, H. Gallhuber, 1976. V, A2, A0, 60 m.
- Däumling, S wall. E. Lomasti, 1978. V+, V, 100 m.
- Kühwegerkofel, N pillar. P. Holl, F. Wiegele, W. Kovsca, 1977. V, V-, A2, A1, 250 m.
- Kühwegerkofel, N chimney. E. Lomasti, E. Di Marco, 1978. V, IV, 250 m.
- Kühwegerkofel, E-NE wall. F. Unterluggauer, W. and F. Wiegele, 1986. III+, III, 150 m.
- Kühwegerkofel, S ravine. F. Wiegele, H. Glantschnig, F. Unterluggauer, 1985. III, 360 m.
- Kühwegerspitzl, W ridge. II (on N summit) and I (on S summit).
- Kühwegerspitzl, SW wall. F. Wiegele, W. Kovsca, 1977. IV+, IV, 100 m.
- Kühwegerspitzl, S edge. F. Wiegele, C. Jost, 1957. IV+, IV, 170 m.
- Kühwegerspitzl, E wall. F. Wiegele, B. Kaiser, 1958. III, II, 130 m.
- Eastern Gartnerkofelturm, N ravine. F. Wiegele, G. Pichler, 1956. III+, III, 150 m.
- Eastern Gartnerkofelturm, SE wall. F. Wiegele, B. Kaiser, 1956. III+, III, (direktni izstop IV) 100 m.
- Middle Gartnerkofelturm, S approach. III, II, 140 m.
- Middle Gartnerkofelturm - Western Gartnerkofelturm, III, II.
- Middle Gartnerkofelturm, S chimney. IV, III, 150 m.
- Western Gartnerkofelturm, SW wall. F. Wiegele, B. Kaiser, 1956. III, II, 130 m.
Red TapeNo restrictions.
Mountain Huts And CampingFor the usual ascent no hut or camping is needed. Otherwise on the Nassfeld area there are many hotels and private pensions. In Gail valley there's a tourist resort at Presseger See, with an official camping place.
The northern ascent is considerably longer. I have no information if sleeping would be possible on Kuehwegeralm. In the middle of Garnitzenklamm there is a shelter, where you could sleep in emergency (high water or impossible escape from the gorge). But it's only one good hour walk from the starting point, so no big use for the mountaineering ascent.
When To Climb?Gartnerkofel can be climbed any time of the season. In winter the upper slopes require some care and a proper equipment.
Live cam: here.