Trailhead: Renclusa/Hospital de Benasque.
Time: 4h from La Renclusa. 5h 40 min form Hosp. de Benasque.
This is the normal route in summer when the access of Col de la Rimaya is impossible. The route had a chimney of 25 meters of II+.
Getting ThereSee the main page for approach.
The firts part of the route are the same of Aneto and Maladeta-col de la rimaya, to the Portillón Superior. After a few of meters of the entry in the glacier of Aneto we leave this route (with a lot of people generally walking in east direction) turning to north side. Is possible the way in lefy side over the plain glacier or in the border of right side with the glacier under the ridge north of Maladeta. In both cases the direction is evident to the wide col in the north (Collado Maldito).
Is not necessary to reach the Col Maldito, a few meters before is the access to the chimney under the peak of Maladeta. It's the first chimney from the Col to right side. The access generally is possible to august but at the end od august and september with less snow is difficult reach the rocks. The ramp of snow had 35º to the bottom of the chimney.
The chimney is narrow and vertical (II+, 25m) to reach the upper exit in the ridge (3275m). Not anchorage for rappel to descent.
The ridge is easy with great blocks of stone to reach the summit of Maladeta for the south side (3308m).
Crampons and ice axe in the walk of the glacier and the access to the chimney.
Harness and rope with strings to tie it if you want make a rappel in the chimney to the descent.