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StumblingBearFirst Great Adventure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 1972

StumblingBear

After more than 10 days in the Glacier Peak Wilderness we crossed Buck Creek Pass and on down into the Suiattle River valley. We worked our way up a ridge overlooking the Chocolate Glacier. Camped just below snow line. Next morning got on glacier (Cool?) and practiced crevasse rescue by sliding down in one to a shelf about 30 feet down. We climbed to the summit without incident and prepared for the night on top. We had fire fighter's pads, thin closed cell foam. Behind rocks we laid our pads and rigged our plastic sheet tarp over us. I froze my but off all night. I put everything I had, extra clothing, pack etc under me trying to stay off the snow under me. The sunset and sunrise were very nice as were the city lights of Seattle. (Wasn't hard at all getting up before sunrise)Next day headed down White Chuck Glacier. On a steep section , Chip the guy in the center of the rope fell and did nothing to self arrest. I turned and dug in hard but it just pulled me off the slope. I fell aways and was really pissed and was ready this time and got him stopped. I looked to my right and next to me was the guy on the lead of the rope with Chip dangling on the rope below us. Just before he fell I had taken my gloves off for something so my knuckles were all skinned up but other than that all was well. We camped at the small lake at the foot of White Chuck Glacier which was almost covered with snow. The winter 71/72 was a record snowfall year which was only recently broken so we were on snow much of the time while in the Wilderness. There was a nice face of rock there so we decided to rock climb for a while before heading up to join the trail White Pass. From White pass we went on to Indian pass down the ridge on the SW side of the Sauk River. We finally bushwacked down to the Sauk and to the road there.
I am sure many of these places now have route names, names I did not know then, the gear we had would be looked at as junk now (wooden handled ice axes,helmets with cotton webbing suspension, plastic tarp for a tent)but its been a long time since I did this climb but it is still vivid in my memory and was a great adventure.
Posted May 21, 2008 10:41 pm

Dan WinterSitkum Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2003

Dan Winter

Fun climb with the Mazamas. Hungry marmots raided my food at boulder basin. They even got my coffee/cocoa mix!!!
Posted Apr 29, 2008 2:11 am

bmwboarder7East Side Climb
Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2007

bmwboarder7

My buddy Rhane and I attempted the East side, as it looked like a fun challenge. It indeed was. After 16 miles the first day, up and over buck creek pass, we ended up staying at 4200' in a canyon at the foot of Chocolate glacier. The next day we hiked up the canyon, crisscrossing the glacial creek, and climbing up and up. Almost moon like with how little plant life there was in such a big area. We crossed several crevasse fields, and climbed one 30ft ice wall, which we later learned we could have avoided, but didn't know because of the foggy weather. We made it up within 100', but we were loosing daylight fast, and thought there was more scrambling up ahead of us from what we could see, so we turned around. Great trip, didn't see anyone out there for several days. Saw a good sized bear, an elk, deer and some ptarmigan too. We'll be back to finish it.
Posted Jan 15, 2008 11:29 pm

DBakerGlacier Peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007

DBaker

Frostbite Ridge: Man the Approach sucks! Nice classic glacier travel (as one would expect). Remoteness is relaxing, if you like that kind of thing.
Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:36 pm

tacoturnerRoute Climbed: White Chuck / Gerdine / Cool Glaciers Date Climbed: July 31, 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2007

tacoturner

Summited on day 6 of a 31-day (actually, only 20 days in the North Cascades) NOLS Outdoor Educator course from our high camp at 8560' on the Cool Glacier. Came in from the N Fork of the Sauk, continued onward to Dome Peak and the Ptarmigan Traverse, then out via Mineral Park. Beautiful, incredible clear skies and pleasant temps for almost all of those 20 days...
Posted Aug 29, 2007 11:43 pm

Karl HelserWhite Chuck / Cool Glacier...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007

Karl Helser

Perfect summit day weather. Long approach. Very interesting walking on what used to be under the White Chuck Glacier. Had Glacier Gap and the summit to ourselves. Water is still running through the camping area of Glacier Gap. We took four days giving us enough time to R&R along the way...
Posted Aug 28, 2007 12:52 am

YEMCool Glacier
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006

YEM

Mazama climb. A long but easy climb in good visibility. The short icefall was enjoyable. We were blasted by 3 fighter jets flying under the deck. Some of the best views around.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 7:45 pm

PantilatVia Whitechuck  Sucess!

Pantilat

One day ascent from NF Sauk via Whitechuck Basin
Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:14 am

mbollinoSitkum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2002

mbollino

Nice and easy climb. Fantastic views of lower Cascade peaks from the summit, unique among Cascade volcanos. Descent entailed the longest and best glissade of my life! Reason enough to go back!
Posted Mar 7, 2007 6:27 pm

flahautLong Approach  Sucess!

flahaut

Long Approach. Going up and over Dissapointment Peak left our party quite exposed.
Posted Jan 22, 2007 1:08 am

nodbodCool Glacier  Sucess!

nodbod

Awesome climb. Definately the funnest volcano climb in Washington
Posted Jan 19, 2007 10:41 pm

Andy DeweyRoute Climbed: Disappointment Peak Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2006

Andy Dewey

Camped at White Pass, started at 6:30am and summited at 3:30pm after making a costly mistake by attempting to go up the Gerdine/Cool Glaciers around Disappointment Pk. Cool was so broken it was too dangerous to ascend without a rope, so we had to turn back and go directly over Disappointment Pk which took a long time. Got back to camp 10:45pm after 16 hrs of climbing :( Still a fun time though.
Posted Sep 3, 2006 1:13 am

osatrikFrostbite Ridge - 3rd try is the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1999

osatrik


Bailed one year at the Rabbit Ears due to party inexperience.
Bailed another year in the crater when a climber was injured (crampon gash) dropping into the crater, just as I was enjoying the steep ice on the other side of the crater -- so near and yet so far.
Four OSAT climbers, Dick W, Bill L, Jenny G and I, finally did the route in 1999, but summit conditions were foggy and we actually pulled out our compasses to get to the right quadrant of the crater on the way out.
Posted Sep 2, 2006 3:51 pm

brotherGerdine/Cool  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006

brother

What a great place to climb! Great party (Bob and Ty), solitude, strenuous approach, great weather, nice glaciers. The summit was calm, the view fantastic.
Posted Aug 21, 2006 8:51 pm

gcapSouth Ridge / Gerdine / Cool
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2006

gcap

Turned back by low visibility, rain and high winds two days in a row... First trip on a glacier and no regrets. Despite the weather had a great time with great company and learned a lot. I will be back.
Posted Aug 16, 2006 12:58 am

RandySGerdine/Cool Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
The route description on this site is excellent and it saved us a lot of time on the approach. Upper Foam Basin is a little difficult to negotiate and find the easiest traverse route from above, but the photo on this site taken from the other direction shows it quite well.
The temperatures on the trip were brutal - in the 90's with no wind. On our 4 day trip, we made first camp at White Pass; our intended high camp the second day was Glacier Gap but the heat and exhaustion from the first day got us only to 6700' in the moraine of the former White Chuck Glacier. The only remaining portion of the glacier is the high, southeast portion.
We got a 3 a.m. start on the third day from our high camp but with no moon, high overcast and almost total darkness, negotiating the upper moraine was slow. Once above Glacier Gap, the route was straight-forward.
The Gerdine Glacier was fairly gentle with no crevasses in the upper portion. We stayed just below a rockfall field off of Disappointment Peak and then negotiated a 100 ft section of blue ice where the Gerdine met the Cool Glacier. From there, we stayed close to Disappointment Peak to the col and then easy scree/ash and a final steep snow gully to the summit. 8 hours from high camp and 4 hours down. Return to car from high camp was 8 hours on the last day.
My suggestion for this route is to make it as early as possible to ensure snow travel where the White Chuck Glacier used to be.
Posted Jul 24, 2006 5:21 pm

Snidely WhiplashRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1985

Snidely Whiplash

A really beautiful mountain in a beautiful setting. My favorite of all of the volcanoes.
Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:27 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003  Sucess!

mandrake

Bit cloudy and cold down below, but weather improved remarkably. Clear and tremendous views off of the summit.
Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:40 pm

NormanRoute Climbed: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-7, 2005  Sucess!

Norman

Fantastic mountain to climb! Remote area with few people. Perfect weather for climbing friend Nick and myself. Took three days, no one else on the mountain on summit day. It is about 30 miles round trip via N Fork Saulk trail.
Posted Sep 9, 2005 10:46 am

diceyRoute Climbed: Frostbite ridge, Kennedy glacier Date Climbed: July 2001, 2002
Haven't made the tipy top on either attempt...argh!
Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:47 pm

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