Cascade Volcanoes > Glacier Peak > Climber's LogGlacier Peak Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| bmwboarder7 | East Side Climb Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2007 | |
| My buddy Rhane and I attempted the East side, as it looked like a fun challenge. It indeed was. After 16 miles the first day, up and over buck creek pass, we ended up staying at 4200' in a canyon at the foot of Chocolate glacier. The next day we hiked up the canyon, crisscrossing the glacial creek, and climbing up and up. Almost moon like with how little plant life there was in such a big area. We crossed several crevasse fields, and climbed one 30ft ice wall, which we later learned we could have avoided, but didn't know because of the foggy weather. We made it up within 100', but we were loosing daylight fast, and thought there was more scrambling up ahead of us from what we could see, so we turned around. Great trip, didn't see anyone out there for several days. Saw a good sized bear, an elk, deer and some ptarmigan too. We'll be back to finish it. | |
| Posted Jan 15, 2008 11:29 pm | ||
| DBaker | Glacier Peak  Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007 | |
| Frostbite Ridge: Man the Approach sucks! Nice classic glacier travel (as one would expect). Remoteness is relaxing, if you like that kind of thing. | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:36 pm | ||
| tacoturner | Route Climbed: White Chuck / Gerdine / Cool Glaciers Date Climbed: July 31, 2007 Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2007 | |
| Summited on day 6 of a 31-day (actually, only 20 days in the North Cascades) NOLS Outdoor Educator course from our high camp at 8560' on the Cool Glacier. Came in from the N Fork of the Sauk, continued onward to Dome Peak and the Ptarmigan Traverse, then out via Mineral Park. Beautiful, incredible clear skies and pleasant temps for almost all of those 20 days... | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2007 11:43 pm | ||
| Karl Helser | White Chuck / Cool Glacier... Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007 | |
| Perfect summit day weather. Long approach. Very interesting walking on what used to be under the White Chuck Glacier. Had Glacier Gap and the summit to ourselves. Water is still running through the camping area of Glacier Gap. We took four days giving us enough time to R&R along the way... | |
| Posted Aug 28, 2007 12:52 am | ||
| YEM | Cool Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006 | |
| Mazama climb. A long but easy climb in good visibility. The short icefall was enjoyable. We were blasted by 3 fighter jets flying under the deck. Some of the best views around. | |
| Posted Aug 20, 2007 7:45 pm | ||
| Pantilat | Via Whitechuck | |
| One day ascent from NF Sauk via Whitechuck Basin | |
| Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:14 am | ||
| mbollino | Sitkum Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2002 | |
| Nice and easy climb. Fantastic views of lower Cascade peaks from the summit, unique among Cascade volcanos. Descent entailed the longest and best glissade of my life! Reason enough to go back! | |
| Posted Mar 7, 2007 6:27 pm | ||
| flahaut | Long Approach | |
| Long Approach. Going up and over Dissapointment Peak left our party quite exposed. | |
| Posted Jan 22, 2007 1:08 am | ||
| nodbod | Cool Glacier | |
| Awesome climb. Definately the funnest volcano climb in Washington | |
| Posted Jan 19, 2007 10:41 pm | ||
| Andy Dewey | Route Climbed: Disappointment Peak Cleaver Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2006 | |
| Camped at White Pass, started at 6:30am and summited at 3:30pm after making a costly mistake by attempting to go up the Gerdine/Cool Glaciers around Disappointment Pk. Cool was so broken it was too dangerous to ascend without a rope, so we had to turn back and go directly over Disappointment Pk which took a long time. Got back to camp 10:45pm after 16 hrs of climbing :( Still a fun time though. | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2006 1:13 am | ||
| osatrik | Frostbite Ridge - 3rd try is the charm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1999 | |
| Bailed one year at the Rabbit Ears due to party inexperience. Bailed another year in the crater when a climber was injured (crampon gash) dropping into the crater, just as I was enjoying the steep ice on the other side of the crater -- so near and yet so far. Four OSAT climbers, Dick W, Bill L, Jenny G and I, finally did the route in 1999, but summit conditions were foggy and we actually pulled out our compasses to get to the right quadrant of the crater on the way out. | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2006 3:51 pm | ||
| brother | Gerdine/Cool Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006 | |
| What a great place to climb! Great party (Bob and Ty), solitude, strenuous approach, great weather, nice glaciers. The summit was calm, the view fantastic. | |
| Posted Aug 21, 2006 8:51 pm | ||
| gcap | South Ridge / Gerdine / Cool Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2006 | |
| Turned back by low visibility, rain and high winds two days in a row... First trip on a glacier and no regrets. Despite the weather had a great time with great company and learned a lot. I will be back. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2006 12:58 am | ||
| RandyS | Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006 | |
| The route description on this site is excellent and it saved us a lot of time on the approach. Upper Foam Basin is a little difficult to negotiate and find the easiest traverse route from above, but the photo on this site taken from the other direction shows it quite well. The temperatures on the trip were brutal - in the 90's with no wind. On our 4 day trip, we made first camp at White Pass; our intended high camp the second day was Glacier Gap but the heat and exhaustion from the first day got us only to 6700' in the moraine of the former White Chuck Glacier. The only remaining portion of the glacier is the high, southeast portion. We got a 3 a.m. start on the third day from our high camp but with no moon, high overcast and almost total darkness, negotiating the upper moraine was slow. Once above Glacier Gap, the route was straight-forward. The Gerdine Glacier was fairly gentle with no crevasses in the upper portion. We stayed just below a rockfall field off of Disappointment Peak and then negotiated a 100 ft section of blue ice where the Gerdine met the Cool Glacier. From there, we stayed close to Disappointment Peak to the col and then easy scree/ash and a final steep snow gully to the summit. 8 hours from high camp and 4 hours down. Return to car from high camp was 8 hours on the last day. My suggestion for this route is to make it as early as possible to ensure snow travel where the White Chuck Glacier used to be. | ||
| Posted Jul 24, 2006 5:21 pm | ||
| Snidely Whiplash | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1985 | |
| A really beautiful mountain in a beautiful setting. My favorite of all of the volcanoes. | |
| Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:27 pm | ||
| mandrake | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003 | |
| Bit cloudy and cold down below, but weather improved remarkably. Clear and tremendous views off of the summit. | |
| Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:40 pm | ||
| Norman | Route Climbed: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-7, 2005 | |
| Fantastic mountain to climb! Remote area with few people. Perfect weather for climbing friend Nick and myself. Took three days, no one else on the mountain on summit day. It is about 30 miles round trip via N Fork Saulk trail. | |
| Posted Sep 9, 2005 10:46 am | ||
| cgclimber | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 04, 2000 | |
| Came back for seconds. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:59 pm | ||
| cgclimber | Route Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 06, 1999 | |
| My first time on a glacier. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:57 pm | ||
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