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Glocknerkamp (Meletzkigrat)
Route

Glocknerkamp (Meletzkigrat)

 
Glocknerkamp (Meletzkigrat)

Page Type: Route

Location: Carinthia / Tyrol (Glockner group), Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.07440°N / 12.69400°E

Object Title: Glocknerkamp (Meletzkigrat)

Route Type: Mountaineering, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: PD, II, 35°

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2003 / Jun 15, 2008

Object ID: 158790

Hits: 7908 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Intro

Information is copied from the main page of Grossglockner:
Meletzkigrat (Glocknerkarkamp), PD, II, 35°
First ascent of Meletzkigrat by A. Gulden, H. Gulden, H. Mechwart, J. Bernsteiner, A. Lackner & J. Rubitsch 27.7.1892. The route was forgotten for long, until E. Meletzki and G. Hecht used the route again 2.9.1925.

Approach

 
Below Glocknerkamp, after...
After crossing Pasterza
 
Climbing Meletzkigrat
DoJo - Climbing Meletzkigrat

Glocknerkamp is also known as Meletzkigrat (Meletzki - Ridge).

You start the tour at the end of Grossglockner road, descend to Pasterza glacier and cross it like on the normal ascent over Hofmannskees. After Hofmannsweg climbs firs rocks and crosses to the Hofmannskees, you decide to take this ridge as a shortcut to Adlersruhe.

Route Description

 
On the upper part of...
Glocknerkamp in June

When Hofmannsweg reaches Hofmannskees you proceed upwards, soon turn back right on the ridge (Gnocknerkamp) and climb over it. Climbing is easy, you choose best passages on the north and south side. On the upper part the ridge becomes steeper (up to some 45 degrees) and you should choose the slopes on its southern side (above Hofmannskees). So you reach the upper plateau and cross it in a direction towards Adlersruhe. From there proceed by the usual ascent to the summit.
 
The panorama from Glocknerkamp
The view from Glocknerkamp

Essential Gear

We did this ascent back in 1983 with skis on rucksacs. It was June and most of the bottom part of the ridge was free of snow. Ot the upper part snow conditions were perfect which might not be the case later in summer.

For the ascent we needed a snow axe and crampons and for the summit ascent the rope too. On Glocknerkamp stay more or less on the ridge - on more difficult places there are also some bolts.

Skiing down over Hofmannskees was of course a great pleasure.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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DoJoRoute Description + Gear

DoJo

Voted 10/10

stay more or less on the ridge (there are some bolts in the difficult parts).
Posted Sep 13, 2006 9:07 pm

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Images

Grossglockner\'s summit ridgeKleinglocknerFrom MeletzkigratBelow Glocknerkamp, after...On the upper part of...The panorama from GlocknerkampMeletzkigrat (Glocknerkamp)
Climbing Meletzkigrat