I first visited Cabana Margherita in 1982, but it was a real pleasure to return with rgg and Alasdair all of 31 years later (OMG - I really must be old now!). Weather & conditions better than we had back then - an even more amazing place to spend the night than I remembered. Not very comfortable though - biggest problem was being much too hot - surprising considering we were at over 4500m. They need to work on ventilating the hut a bit better - maybe inhibited opening windows by the 2500m drop just outside!
rgg - Jul 12, 2013 11:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013
From Rifugio Gnifetti
After our original plans to climb the Dufourspitze and Nordend from the north failed because of an overdose of soft snow, we drove around from Switzerland to Italy to explore the Monte Rosa area from the south. The snow conditions were much better here, and we went over almost every little peak along the route from Rif. Gnifetto to Capanna Margherita - we only passed on Pyramide Vincent because we had already climbed it yesterday, and on Lyskamm East because we didn't like the look of the cornice high on its eastern ridge when we viewed it from Pyramide Vincent yesterday.
Eelconl - Mar 21, 2013 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Oct 8, 2008
Autumn 2008
With sleep in the hut.
Batistuta - Feb 21, 2013 7:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2012
from gnifetti hut
warm and sunny weather on the top, perfect day. it was my second climb to C.Margherita and really enjoyed it.
From Monte Rosa hut. Beautiful views of the matterhorn on the way and we trekked all the way from Zermatt and back to Zermatt on the way down. SPICY summit ridge climb, we encountered mixed conditions-steep snow, ice, steep rock scrambling with crampons. Free soloed the entire route with Matthew Sharples. Descended opposite side down icy chute with fixed lines which were iced over. Using a hand line was a little sketchy as usually these sections would be rappelled. Massive storm and powerful thunder overtook us right as we got down the mountain. We were scared witless and almost ran down the mountain because the air was so charged with electricity, got a bit spooked and I even felt a fuzzy sensation, sort of like a little jolt at the very upper part of my forehead.
Climbed from Citta di Mantova. Found it to be fairly long walk but great when you arrive at the summit and are at your final destination for the day!
p-mike - Sep 7, 2011 2:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2011
Normal route from Ref. Gnifetti
We have reached the Margherita hut, but we renunced at the Zumstein, it was too cold and the wind too strong, we will go there the next time...
mooliczek - Aug 30, 2011 12:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2011
Final point
Our final target that day. After climbed up several surrounding peaks, we arrived at Capanna Margherita quite tired and sleepy. Nice service in the hut :)
A part of our trip around Monte Rosa's plateau.
Climbed in perfect weather with Igi.
Valtho - Aug 26, 2011 4:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011
Magnificent hut
We came from the Quintino Sella hut and climbed Lyskamm Il Naso, Lowenshohe and Parrotspitze before. We reached the hut finally in a afternoon snow storm but what a great hut at 4500m!
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 1982
Most amazing hut in the Alps!
Climbed the Signalkuppe in 1982 and spent 2 nights up at the Margarite Hut, up on the summit. The low atmospheric pressure was apparent when one of my companions opened a container of milk powder, which then erupted like a mini-volcano, plastering him in milk powder from head to foot.
hansw - Dec 18, 2010 7:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2000
From the Sella Hut
From the Sella hut we went over Il Naso (4100 meter) on to the Monte Rosa trail. In good but windy conditions we traversed the Parrotspitze before reaching the Margherita hut on top Signalkuppe. Coming next morning there was no visibility and we had to cancel Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze and instead delicately find our way down the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa hut in poor visibility. (July 27, 2000).
Fifth and last summit of the day...phew! Enjoyed pizza in the hut and then started the long way down back to the valley. Tiring, but an absolutely super day!!
Martina Marmoška - Jul 29, 2010 11:44 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2010
from Gnifetti
From Gnifetti hut. Monte Rosa is really glacier safari...Perfect.
hernberg - Aug 9, 2009 4:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009
Nice pasta in the hut
Went up for a meal and a drink in the Margerithahut, nice pasta and what a wiew!
BigLee - Jul 13, 2009 7:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2009
Acclimatisation
Used for acclimatisation. Started the climb from approx 100m above the Monte Rosa hut where we were camped. Did not use rope as glacier in good condition still.
markthejock - Aug 14, 2013 11:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2013
Nice location for a hutGreat views from the highest hut in Europe. As mentioned by others, it was warmer inside than you'd expect!
Rafa Bartolome - Jul 17, 2013 1:06 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2013
a dream comes truethe last peak of our wonderdull holidays in monte rosa. Spectacular place with amazing dawn
markhallam - Jul 14, 2013 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013
Repeat visitI first visited Cabana Margherita in 1982, but it was a real pleasure to return with rgg and Alasdair all of 31 years later (OMG - I really must be old now!). Weather & conditions better than we had back then - an even more amazing place to spend the night than I remembered. Not very comfortable though - biggest problem was being much too hot - surprising considering we were at over 4500m. They need to work on ventilating the hut a bit better - maybe inhibited opening windows by the 2500m drop just outside!
rgg - Jul 12, 2013 11:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013
From Rifugio GnifettiAfter our original plans to climb the Dufourspitze and Nordend from the north failed because of an overdose of soft snow, we drove around from Switzerland to Italy to explore the Monte Rosa area from the south. The snow conditions were much better here, and we went over almost every little peak along the route from Rif. Gnifetto to Capanna Margherita - we only passed on Pyramide Vincent because we had already climbed it yesterday, and on Lyskamm East because we didn't like the look of the cornice high on its eastern ridge when we viewed it from Pyramide Vincent yesterday.
Eelconl - Mar 21, 2013 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Oct 8, 2008
Autumn 2008With sleep in the hut.
Batistuta - Feb 21, 2013 7:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2012
from gnifetti hutwarm and sunny weather on the top, perfect day. it was my second climb to C.Margherita and really enjoyed it.
Daria - Sep 22, 2012 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2012
Gorgeous areaFrom Monte Rosa hut. Beautiful views of the matterhorn on the way and we trekked all the way from Zermatt and back to Zermatt on the way down. SPICY summit ridge climb, we encountered mixed conditions-steep snow, ice, steep rock scrambling with crampons. Free soloed the entire route with Matthew Sharples. Descended opposite side down icy chute with fixed lines which were iced over. Using a hand line was a little sketchy as usually these sections would be rappelled. Massive storm and powerful thunder overtook us right as we got down the mountain. We were scared witless and almost ran down the mountain because the air was so charged with electricity, got a bit spooked and I even felt a fuzzy sensation, sort of like a little jolt at the very upper part of my forehead.
Silvia Mazzani - Sep 2, 2012 5:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 1992
Punta GnifettiWith my loved Inti.
alcol - Jan 6, 2012 5:20 am
Nornal Route from Rifugio MantovaGreat ascent with no problems up to the Capanna Margherita
ivanriva - Oct 16, 2011 6:01 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2006
Normal routeFrom rif.gnifetti
cabouckaert1 - Oct 15, 2011 11:19 am
Great summit!Climbed from Citta di Mantova. Found it to be fairly long walk but great when you arrive at the summit and are at your final destination for the day!
p-mike - Sep 7, 2011 2:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2011
Normal route from Ref. GnifettiWe have reached the Margherita hut, but we renunced at the Zumstein, it was too cold and the wind too strong, we will go there the next time...
mooliczek - Aug 30, 2011 12:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2011
Final pointOur final target that day. After climbed up several surrounding peaks, we arrived at Capanna Margherita quite tired and sleepy. Nice service in the hut :)
A part of our trip around Monte Rosa's plateau.
Climbed in perfect weather with Igi.
Valtho - Aug 26, 2011 4:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011
Magnificent hutWe came from the Quintino Sella hut and climbed Lyskamm Il Naso, Lowenshohe and Parrotspitze before. We reached the hut finally in a afternoon snow storm but what a great hut at 4500m!
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 1982
Most amazing hut in the Alps!Climbed the Signalkuppe in 1982 and spent 2 nights up at the Margarite Hut, up on the summit. The low atmospheric pressure was apparent when one of my companions opened a container of milk powder, which then erupted like a mini-volcano, plastering him in milk powder from head to foot.
hansw - Dec 18, 2010 7:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2000
From the Sella HutFrom the Sella hut we went over Il Naso (4100 meter) on to the Monte Rosa trail. In good but windy conditions we traversed the Parrotspitze before reaching the Margherita hut on top Signalkuppe. Coming next morning there was no visibility and we had to cancel Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze and instead delicately find our way down the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa hut in poor visibility. (July 27, 2000).
icypeak - Sep 25, 2010 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2010
Climbed from Mantova HutFifth and last summit of the day...phew! Enjoyed pizza in the hut and then started the long way down back to the valley. Tiring, but an absolutely super day!!
Martina Marmoška - Jul 29, 2010 11:44 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2010
from GnifettiFrom Gnifetti hut. Monte Rosa is really glacier safari...Perfect.
hernberg - Aug 9, 2009 4:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009
Nice pasta in the hutWent up for a meal and a drink in the Margerithahut, nice pasta and what a wiew!
BigLee - Jul 13, 2009 7:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2009
AcclimatisationUsed for acclimatisation. Started the climb from approx 100m above the Monte Rosa hut where we were camped. Did not use rope as glacier in good condition still.