Overview
Geographical structure: Eastern Alps > Julian Alps > Razor and Prisojnik group.
The wildest and hardest ridge to appoach in the Julian Alps. From the right: Golicica, Germaljt, Kanceljni, Prevcev stolp and Planja.
Golicica belongs to Razor and Prisojnik group and it is the first mountain in the famous ridge Razor – Golicica. Golicica is on the list of mountains of many mountaineers. But many of mountaineers are afraid of climbing on it because no marked routes lead to the summit of Golicica and there is no easy approach. If you want to reach Golicica you must search passages through the forest and on the upper part over the dwarf pine and over grassy slopes. But now Golicica has more visitors and we can talk about normal route, which starts in Trenta valley from the road on Vrsic pass. But this is still not very famous and popular mountain and I want that Golicica will stay not well-known mountain. It must be approachable for mountaineers, who have climbed something and not for tourists. Those kinds of mountains are for special people not for everyone.
Golicica lies at the start of the ridge that comes from the NE direction from the summit of Razor, 2601m and Planja, 2453m. To the N side it falls down in small valley of Mlinarica. On these slopes is the forest reserve called Kukla. Kukla, 1318m is also the small forest peak on the slopes of Golicica. To the S side Golicica falls in to the Zadnjica valley. This is really wilderness of the most powerful variety. Steep grass slopes, grass airy shelves and other beauties of mountains. On the W side Golicica`s slopes fall down to the road in Trenta valley. Down here are two villages called Pri Cerkvi and Na Logu.
From the climbing standpoint Golicica is not an important mountain because it has too short faces and very hard approaches to the Golicica`s faces. I know only that some ravines on north and south slopes were skied but I don’t have any names of routes and information where these routes are.
Very interesting sport in valley of Mlinarica is canyoning (Descending in hard-to-approach gorges) on the river Mlinarica. The route is settled and secured (you have some screws in the rocks for descending with ropes).
In Winter the gorge of Mlinarica has some interesting waterfalls for ice climbing.
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View from Golicica
The view from the summit of Golicica is amazing. You see all the powerful mountains of all subgroups in Julian Alps.This is for me the best mountain in all Julian Alps with the best view!!!
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Getting There
The detailed map. Red spots are summits, posted on SP. You can see where Golicica is.
The heart of the region is Kranjska Gora resort town, 84 kilometers from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana. Starting point for Golicica is Vrsic pass and then you drive with car to the turn where is a house . This is some turnings above the monument of Julius Kugy. This valley is called Mlinarica valley and it is one of the small valleys of Trenta valley.
By Plane:
If you want to reach Ljubljana by plane check a timetable on the site of Adria Airways, a national airline.
By Bus:
From Ljubljana buses depart towards Kranjska Gora every 60 minutes.
By Train:
From Ljubljana trains depart in Kranjska Gora direction quite often but only up to Jesenice town. There you have to change to bus, which come from Ljubljana anyway.
By Car:
From Ljubljana 84km.
From central Europe via Villach, Austria: Via Karavanke tunnel (around 40km) or Korensko Sedlo pass (around 30km).
From western Europe via Udine, Italy: exit Udine – Villach highway in Tarvisio. Tarvisio – Kranjska Gora 20km.
Maps:
Julijske Alpe - Zahodni del. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000
Tabacco: Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano. No: 019. 1:25000
Routes Overview
On the summit of Golicica leads only one unmarked route butit is hard to find. You can find the description here.There are some waterfalls in walley of Mlinarica for ice climbing.
Golicica is also start of the famous ridge Razor - Golicica.
Crossing ridge Golicica - Razor. UIAA V-/II-IV. 6-10 hours. A lot of possibilities. |
Red Tape
The mushrooms (can you find 3 of them? :-) ) called boletus in the forest reserve Kukla.
No limitations but Golicica is located in the Triglavski Narodni park so you must be kind to the nature and other beauties.
Be careful on beautiful plants and animals in the forest reserve Kukla.
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When To Climb
The best time for climbing on Golicica is from early Summer to Autumn. In Autumn you will see beautiful colors of nature. |
Huts
There are no huts. In the nearness on the Vrsic pass there are many huts. POSTARSKI DOM NA VRSICU hut (1688m) is the highest of the 3 Vrsic pass huts and has most beautiful view. Since it is not accessible by car it remained truly mountaineering hut. It has been built in 1952 on a small terrace bellow the Vrsic peak (1737m), after which pass was named. It has 65 beds, electricity, phone, hot water and its open from June 1st to September 30th. 15 minutes on foot from Vrsic pass. TICARJEV DOM NA VRSICU hut (1620m) is standing on the southern side of Vrsic pass, just by the road. First hut here was opened in 1912 and was named Slovenska Koca (Slovenian Hut). Between 1964 and 1966 a new hut has been built, just by the old one, which was demolished upon finishing the new one. In April of 1975 huge avalanche from Mojstrovka destroyed part of the hut. It has 91 beds, hot water and electricity, phone etc. and is open from May 1st till the end of October. ERJAVCEVA KOCA NA VRSICU hut (1525m) is standing on top of small head, surrounded by larch trees, just by the road, some hundred vertical meters or 1 kilometer in distance bellow the Vrsic pass on the north side. From the hut is beautiful view on the towering Prisojnik (2547m). First hut was built here in 1901. In 1987 it has been decided that old hut is in bad condition and no longer usable, has to be demolished and new one build, at the same spot. New hut was opened in 1991. It has 94 beds, hot water, electricity, phone etc. It is open ALL YEAR. Camping
Camping inside the Triglav National Park is forbidden. Beside the mountain huts there are plenty of hotels and private apartments in the towns and villages, which surround the area. Here are few links where you can find info on accommodations closer and further away:Kranjska Gora
Bovec
Mojstrana
Bled
Mountain Conditions
Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known, thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is below the Triglav.You can observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site. Here is direct link to Wunderground - Kredarica page.
Some weather informatin can also be found here.
