Welcome to SP!  -
good memories ... Vallina d'Amola
Trip Report

good memories ... Vallina d'Amola

 
good memories ... Vallina d\'Amola

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.21070°N / 10.70270°E

Object Title: good memories ... Vallina d'Amola

Date Climbed/Hiked: Nov 30, 1967

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Fall

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Nov 13, 2009 / Apr 27, 2010

Object ID: 573141

Hits: 1834 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 


Sad to become old ...
sometimes at night, instead of watching/sleeping in front of the television, I like to go back in the years :
I open the box containing my old photos and slides and begin to dream and remember ...

 E' brutto invecchiare ...
certe sere, invece di sonnecchiare davanti alla TV mi piace tornare indietro nel tempo :
prendo la scatola che contiene vecchie foto e diapositive e comincio a ricordare e sognare ...


In the late Sixties and the early Seventies for my (short) summer holidays there was only one site : the Brentei refuge in the Brenta Dolomites.
I used to meet there some guys, coming from various regions of Italy but owners of old relatives houses in Val Rendena.
They were belonging to a climbing group : the "Rampagaroi".
We climbed together some classic routes of Brenta becoming friends and, of course, out of summer holidays we happened to meet also in our towns.

I could often meet one of them (his nickname was "Cialàpa") that was living in Milano but was also owner of an old house in Fisto (a small hamlet of Spiazzo Rendena).
Among his friends there was a famous mountain guide : Clemente Maffei (Guerèt) that, when free from his work, used to phone us just to find friendly partners to climb some amusing route that he couldn't do with his clients or to open new routes ... his way of life was : on saturdays and sundays I MUST climb.

All OK when late september or october weekends where in good weather ... but when the weather was not so good ?
No problems : there was the Vallina d'Amola !!!

This valley was really smart :
  • an untarred road allowed us to arrive by car up to the old, abandoned but well kept, barracs of the Company that built the dams.
  • from the barracs in a little time we could arrive to the wonderful granitic slabs of the ridge descending from Monte Nero
  • under the rain (not so infrequent) we could fastly come back to the barracs from the routes or the summits
  • the summits belonging to this ridge were very rarely climbed, some even never climbed : virgins !
  • that kind of Granite (the Presanella one) was not slippery even if wet
  • the routes were not long (200-350m) so that when weather was good we could climb 2 routes a day, when raining only one
  • the pitches were normally short (20-40m) and the belays were good so we didn't need pitons or other safety stuff
  • the difficulties of the routes were the "classic" ones : from III to V+ (5.2-5.8) the ones that could be safely climbed without gear

    We spent some weekends climbing on the N walls of :
    Corno del Pedertich, Pedertich, Punta Mara, Punta Teresa, Punta Amneris, Punta Angelo and others whose name is no more in my (old) mind
    (the names of the summits come from the names of Guerèt sons ... the Punta Angelo was his last climb, while opening a new route on the NNW edge, roped with the bridegroom of his elder daughter, they fell down , ...)

    Then life (work, family etc) changed and we lost each other ... I found new climbing partners and new very interesting areas (Masino, Mont Blanc group and Dolomites that are, I think, the best ranges in the whole wide world)
    In the autumns we started to climb in the "modern" way : rock shoes, friends, nuts, short structures, very difficult routes (up to 5.12) etc. ... but it was not as amusing as those weekends.
  • alla fine degli anni '60, inizio anni '70 esisteva un solo posto per le mie brevi vacanze estive : il rifugio Brentei in Brenta
    Mi trovavo abitualmente con ragazzi più o meno della mia età, emigrati dalla Val Rendena in varie regioni d'Italia ma che d'estate, complice il possesso delle antiche case di famiglia, si ritrovavano.
    Facevano parte del gruppo dei "Rampagaroi".
    Arrampicando insieme su alcune vie classiche in Brenta diventammo amici e, naturalmente, ci capitò di ritrovarci anche "a casa"

    Con uno di loro (soprannominato Cialàpa) mi trovavo abbastanza spesso perchè abitava a Milano, pur avendo una vecchia casa a Fisto (frazione di Spiazzo Rendena)
    Fra i suoi amici c'era una famosa guida: Clemente Maffei (Guerèt) che, se libero da impegni con i clienti ci telefonava per "combinare" in via amichevole qualche salita che non avrebbe potuto fare con i clienti o, addirittura, qualche via nuova.
    Il suo stile di vita portava al di sabato e domenica si DEVE arrampicare.

    Tutto bene se a fine settembre e ottobre il tempo nei weekends era bello .. ma quando non lo era ?
    nessun problema : si va in Vallina d'Amola !!!

    Questa valletta era veramente "furba"
  • una strada sterrata permetteva di arrivare in macchina alle vecchie baracche, abbandonate ma in ottimo stato, usate per la costruzione di dighe e condotte (Val Nambrone)
  • dalle baracche in breve si arrivava alle splendide placche di splendido granito della cresta che scende dal Monte Nero.
  • sotto la pioggia (non rara) potevamo tornare in fretta al riparo dalle vie o dalle cime
  • le cime di questa cresta erano sempre deserte, alcune addirittura vergini
  • il granito (quello della Presanella) non era scivoloso nemmeno se bagnato
  • le vie non erano lunghe (200-350m), col bel tempo ne facevamo 2 al giorno, con il brutto ci accontentavamo di 1
  • i tiri di corda erano normalmente corti (20-40m), le soste molto buone e così non ci serviva la ferraglia
  • le difficoltà delle vie erano quelle classiche dal 3° al 5°+ e quindi si potevano affrontare senza bisogno di altro che la corda

    Passammo alcuni fine settimana sulle pareti del Corno del Pedertich, Pedertich, Punta Mara, Punta Teresa, Punta Amneris, Punta Angelo e altre cimette di cui non ricordo i nomi
    (i nomi erano stati dati dal Gueret, primo salitore, in omaggio ai figli ... la Punta Angelo fu la sua ultima arrampicata: mentre apriva una nuova via sullo sperone NNO insieme al futuro genero, caddero ...)


    La vita (lavoro, famiglia ecc) cambiò e noi ci perdemmo
    ... trovai nuovi compagni di cordata e nuove aree molto interessanti (il Masino, il Bianco e le Dolomiti che sono, per me, le più belle montagne del mondo)
    Negli autunni si incominciò ad arrampicare in modo moderno : scarpette, friends, nuts, strutture corte, vie estreme ecc. ... ma quei fine settimana erano più divertenti.


  • Corno del Pedertich

    the Pedertich
     
    Pedertich N wall
     
    Pedertich
     
    The Pedertich seen while descending from Punta Angelo : I didn't succeed in taking a photo with the blue sky ...the first key passage
    above the slanted slab there is a slightly overhanging one
    the exit, in the right side is not so easy and, of course,
    we didn't use any protection
    the fine dihedral in the mid part at the end of it a very delicate crossing to the left (no photos, we were in the rain ... ) gives access to the last wonderful uniform slabs that lead to the summit



    Punta Mara - Punta Angelo & Punta Amneris

     
    Punta Angelo e Punta Amneris
     
     
    Punta Mara - East wall
     
     
    Punta Mara - East wall
     
    seen while descending after climbing the Punta Mara E wall one has to climb (if he likes and the weather is good enough, the ridge in the skylinesometimes it happens that the sky is blue ... but only up to the 4th pitch :)the wonderful steep slab giving access to the ridge




    Images

    Punta Mara - East wallPedertichCima Laengthe PedertichPedertich N wallPunta Mara - East wallPunta Angelo e Punta Amneris

    Comments


    [ Post a Comment ]
    Viewing: 1-2 of 2    

    silversummitI like this!

    silversummit

    Voted 10/10

    But it's not so sad to be old! I like to think of my early years hiking, camping etc. as part of what I am today.

    Great writing!

    Posted Nov 13, 2009 8:35 pm

    Gabriele RothRe: I like this!

    Gabriele Roth

    Hasn't voted

    no, till you have fine memories ...
    but it was really better when I could feel safe on vertical rock and roped with good friends sharing the same goal : climbing must be amusing !
    tks, ciao :)
    Posted Nov 14, 2009 3:15 am

    Viewing: 1-2 of 2