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Grand Teton Climber's Log

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JanGRoute Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: June 27, 2004  Sucess!


Grand Teton has been called by some " America's Matterhorn." I went to Jackson with my 22 y/o son Christoph to get some rock-climbing experience prior to climbing the " real " Matterhorn. We certainly got some great experiences with the Grand!

Exum Mountain Guides assigned us to Doug Coombs, a famous extreme skier, during our 3-day stay. We practiced rock climbing on different pitches (on all kinds of rock walls) during our first day with Doug. On day 2 we hiked from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle. There was still snow on the ground; indeed, Doug had skied from the top of Grand Teton one week previously. There was just a handful of climbers at the camp. The sky was clear when we arrived but it got quite cold during the night.

We left at 4:35AM for the final climb. The rock surface was dry and there was no ice cover at any point on the ridge. The crossing of the void at " Wall Street " was somewhat nerve-racking while the " Golden Staircase " was the perfect climbing pitch for me. We were able to complete the rest of the ridge climb without major difficulties. Doug was an outstanding guide; he gave us the needed support at critical points of the climb.

We enjoyed the fantastic panorama after reaching the summit at 9:45. The descent was via the Owens-Spalding route; we were back at the Lower Saddle at 1PM just before afternoon showers began. To summarize, Grand Teton is a fantastic place to get great rock-climbing experiences and the Exum guides are the best. Christoph and myself were both able to put into practice at the Matterhorn (less than 6 weeks later) all that we had learned at the Grand.

Posted Nov 16, 2004 11:26 pm

MikeBRoute Climbed: Lower Exum/Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July, 2004


Short of the summit by 300' due to some route finding issues. Missed the entrance ramp to the Exum ridge and traversed from Petzold ridge to Lower Exum.
Posted Nov 12, 2004 5:28 pm

poorboy44Route Climbed: Direct Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!


Fun route, great view!
Posted Nov 2, 2004 5:51 pm

chiligodRoute Climbed: exum ridge Date Climbed: july 97  Sucess!
my first climb. it occured to me as a good first for anyone entering the sport. needed more lungs at the time.
Posted Sep 29, 2004 8:38 pm

brendonRoute Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: 14 August 1998  Sucess!


Summited near the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the OS. Great day.
Posted Aug 27, 2004 2:55 am

thegoldengriffRoute Climbed: Wittich Crack (5.6) OS variation Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!


Third time's a charm! Horrible weather in 2002-- during the same storm that caused deaths on the mountain. Perfect weather in 2003 though. Couldn't ask for a better trip. Left the parking lot at 2:30 AM, back in Jackson by 8:00 that night for pizza! Incredible.
Posted Aug 25, 2004 8:34 pm

spud-climberRoute Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 27, 2002  Sucess!
Spent the first two days fighting poor weather (snow). We camped on the Lower Saddle, don't know if I'd do that again (windy and a long ways to pack your stuff). Make sure you can find Wall Street and other key features so that you can get on the rock know where your going. Do your homework.
Posted Aug 19, 2004 12:17 pm

Derek FranzenRoute Climbed: Direct Exum Date Climbed: August 12/13 1981  Sucess!

Derek Franzen

With E Sandbo, L Rasmussen & M Woodmansee. Hiked in from Jenny Lake to camp in upper basin. Up before light and hiked to start of climb. Chimney was great fun. Partner Mike provided short, yellow-rain squall at belay stance before crux pitch. Rope drag after the crux pitch was significant. Third classing upper part of route, legs wanted to go faster but lungs kept running out of air. Found 1/2 bottle of whiskey and note at summit. Descent uneventful. Glissaded from col, past Ohio Mountaineers ice climbing, steep snow to basin camp. Hiking out met lovely, friendly, topless girls hiking in.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 9:45 am

b.Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!


What a great route! Good rock, fun snow and lots of climbing. My fourth time on the summit of the Grand, my fourth route to the summit, and they were all spectacular. Now if only the North Ridge would cooperate . . .
Posted Jul 15, 2004 12:35 pm

gatoRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!


What a route! Some seriously exposed climbing on one of the most complex routes of the Grand. Very alpine, with lots of snow and ice everywhere. Bivied at the moraine of the Teton Glacier, had to traverse quite a bit to get back to our gear. Descended the Teepee Glacier, got see some sweet aspects of the Grand.

Another fantastic Tetons trip!
Posted Jul 12, 2004 11:58 am

Robert LutzRoute Climbed: hard one for me Date Climbed: july, 2003  Sucess!
amazing. absolutley amazing.
Posted Jun 2, 2004 11:40 pm

BootboyRoute Climbed: upper exum Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!


Nice day, good weather until second rap. That got a bit tense. Exum is a cakewalk, awsome mountain though. Coming back for north ridge
Posted May 29, 2004 2:41 am

t511aRoute Climbed: Exum Ridge Date Climbed: 1Sep2001  Sucess!


storm had just moved thru the night before, left heavy winds for us to climb in. made it a little dodgy. nevertheless, had a great climb. one of the most stunning ranges i've seen.
Posted Apr 28, 2004 10:49 pm

bteddyRoute Climbed: upper exum Date Climbed: july '01  Sucess!
nice day good climb. definitly want something more technical like Petzoldt though
Posted Apr 19, 2004 11:50 pm

jstanleyRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: 7 Aug 1970  Sucess!


Khalden Sherpa and I climbed this route in perfect weather. We got off route, as many do, and didn't reach the summit til 6 PM. We descended the Owen Spaulding route and walked down the mountain until it became too dark to go any farther. We bivied and hiked back over the ridge to our campsite the next morning.
Posted Apr 19, 2004 9:46 am

gunnersmithRoute Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: August 14, 2002  Sucess!


I live this mountain. I love Jackson. I want to go back for the traverse.
Posted Apr 18, 2004 8:57 pm

ChrisRoute Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: August 1994  Sucess!


This is an awesome climb! Great views, great rock, super scenic approach... it just doesn't get much better.
Posted Mar 23, 2004 10:09 pm

t_dubRoute Climbed: owen-spalding w/ wittich crack variation Date Climbed: aug '97  Sucess!
Is this not just a beaut of a rock? The view is amazing. Make sure to check out the Black Tail Butte directly east accross the valley. It is supprisingly some great climbing with no approach at all. Just roll out of your tent at GrosVentre and cruise to the parking lot and climb. Can't wait to go back. See you in Moose.
Posted Nov 6, 2003 9:16 pm

Nyle WaltonRoute Climbed: Owens-Spaulding Date Climbed: July, 1950  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 1950

Nyle Walton

Midway through the 20th Century on a summer trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, I gazed upon the awesome Grand Teton for the first time. At its base near Jenny Lake, I met mountain-guide Glenn Exum and his attractive blond wife. Exum's appearance was a cross between the movie actors, Errol Flynn and Gilbert Roland, the latter whom I had just seen in a class-B movie entitled "High Conquest" where the Cisco Kid played a Swiss guide somewhat reluctant to undertake a death-defying climb of the Matterhorn. The prospect of reliving this movie inspired me to borrow thirty dollars from my father to pay Exum to guide me up the "Matterhorn of the Rockies."
I was disappointed when my guide turned out to be not the handsome Exum but rather a younger member of his staff, Bob Merriam. Bob led his wife, Doris, Ronald Davis, and me up along switchbacks that led through the forest and up a glacial ravine to the 12,000-foot saddle between the Grand and Middle Tetons. There we camped for the night before ascending steeply to a higher saddle where we roped up and traversed horizontally along a narrow exposed ledge called the "Cooning Place" (as I recall). A few more terrifying pitches subsequently put us on the slabby summit of the Grand Teton.
The weather was good and we could see every peak from Mount Moran and Jackson Lake on the north to South Teton and Jackson town to the south. Bob and his wife sat on a ledge below the summit. I was able to catch them from above through my viewfinder with their legs dangling over the abyss and Jenny Lake 7,000 feet below their feet for a very vertiginous photograph. A kodachrome of sixteen-year-old me sitting on the summit appears in my profile.

This was my first experience with technical climbing. Subsequently that same year (1950) I wrote an account of the climb that covered a newspaper-size page in the Salt Lake Tribune Sunday Magazine Section entitled "Feet on the Teton." A photograph of our guide and his wife taken from the summit looks down on their boots suspended above Jenny Lake is one of five pictures that appeared with the full-page article. The yellowed newspaper sheet remains folded among my most precious momentos.
Posted Nov 6, 2003 10:28 am

Scott WesemannHere is your log

Scott Wesemann


Here is a picture of your actual summit signature. I'm not sure if you have seen this, but I thought it was pretty awesome.

Posted Jan 14, 2008 12:02 am

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