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merrillOwen-Spaulding  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009


Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.
Posted May 31, 2010 10:20 pm

monealFull Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010


Lower Exum is all that.
Posted Apr 27, 2010 8:28 pm

reboylesSmith-Otter Body  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973


Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.
Posted Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm

builttospillTwo Climbs, One Month  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008


August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.

August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.
Posted Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am

merrillRe: Two Climbs, One Month


Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.
Posted May 31, 2010 10:36 pm

bizUpper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010


Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.
Posted Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm

bryangastClose call  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993


Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.
Posted Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm

birdSuper fun on Upper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009


Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!
Posted Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am

splattskiUpper Exum, more or less  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2009


T-shirts on the summit. Snow and ice on the OS descent.
We followed two guys who had climbed it several times, but couldn't remember the exact route. Ended up on the summit anyway.
Trip report
Posted Sep 21, 2009 7:35 am

YankeeriverDirect Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009
Fantastic time. Rain, hail, and all...
Posted Sep 18, 2009 7:22 pm

Brian KaletOS  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009

Brian Kalet

12.5h CTC
Posted Sep 14, 2009 2:48 am

b.Black Ice Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009


Valhalla Traverse was easier than expected. The entry rock was dry and the ice in the couloir was hero sticks the whole way. We simul-climbed the ice in three long pitches, no rock fall all day and great overcast, cool day. Perfect conditions, awesome climb.
Posted Sep 8, 2009 1:03 am

MishaDirect Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2009


Etsuko and I hauled our packs to the Lower Saddle the day before. My watch (and its alarm) broke down on the way up. Woke up way too late but went up the route anyway. Pitched out Lower Exum and solo'd most of the Upper ridge. Topped out with one hour of daylight to spare and decided to spend the night on the summit instead of braving a blind/unknown descent down iced up Owen-Spalding. In retrospect, it was a great idea; cloudless warm night on the summit of this great mountain is hard to beat! This is a beautiful and truly classic route!
Posted Sep 7, 2009 5:24 pm

merrillOS  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009


Took 3 new guys up the OS with a bunch of ice and snow left over from the recent snow but we made it despite waiting 3 hours at the upper saddle for the 16+ climbers ahead of our group. Chalk up a successful #3.
Posted Aug 30, 2009 9:27 pm

jvossOS Summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009


Great climb with Exum. Reached summit at 7:45am and watched "Old Faithful" erupt. PERFECT weather - guide didn't even use his headlamp due to full moon and balmy conditions. Back to the saddle before 11:00am.
Posted Aug 10, 2009 12:00 pm

David MortensenExum Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1996

David Mortensen

I climbed the upper exum route. Incredible.
Posted Aug 6, 2009 1:11 am

CBakwinYo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2009


4 hrs from the saddle to the summit via upper Exum (including a wrong turn up OS that cost us about 600' vert). 6 hours out to TH. Very fantastic climb!
Posted Aug 4, 2009 5:27 pm

davebobk47OS Owen Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009


Started up the Upper Exum but bailed quickly due to ugly looking clouds. Made it up the OS Owen Chimney var. Some ice still in the chimney from a nasty storm that hit 2 days prior. Amazing summit.
Posted Jul 31, 2009 12:09 pm

gobriangoUpper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2009


First multi pitch climb for me .... Absolutely fabulous !!! Unbelievable time with great friends. Will be back to the Grand for more I'm sure.
Posted Jul 29, 2009 10:29 pm

Brad SniderUpper Exum w/ Exum Guides  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2009

Brad Snider

Awesome climb with great guides--Rick and Brian--plus a great group, and superb weather.
Posted Jul 23, 2009 12:10 pm

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