Teton Range > Grand Teton > Climber's LogGrand Teton Climber's Log
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| SKI | Hit and miss  Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010 | |
| Tried the Lower Exum after pitching some crap rock down in the moraines, buddy of mine fell and had a boulder land on his chest prompting an immediate descent. After shortroping him to the lower saddle, he toppled over from exhaustion prompting oxygen and first aid treatment by the rangers with assistance from Exum Guides. After escorting him back to the tent, I ended up just soloing the (very wet) OS and helped a group of people descend (no helmets, rappel devices... what gives?). Broke camp, trekked out and drove back to Reno all in that same 24 hours. Long ass day. | |
| Posted Jul 20, 2010 8:17 am | ||
| seano | Upper Exum Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2010 | |
| Soloed in about 9h car-to-car, 5h15 up on a windy day with no views from the summit. The step-around at the end of Wall Street was truly terrifying, especially with the wind, and I'm not sure I'd repeat it. Other than that, fun climb. Since then, I've climbed the Owen-Spalding and Direct Exum. Trip reports here, here, and here. | |
| Posted Jul 12, 2010 6:36 pm | ||
| montyq2 | Upper Exum Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2010 | |
| Car to car in 11h54m. Started hiking from the parking lot at 2:45AM.Beautiful weather, but a lot of late season snow and ice all over the upper mountain which slowed us down. We saw one other solo climber above the lower saddle the entire time which was astounding.Managed the rappels with one 60m rope.Not a cloud in the sky from the summit. Perfect climb! | ||
| Posted Jul 10, 2010 4:01 pm | ||
| jamesmc2 | Finally Made It | |
| First trip resulted in us taking a wrong turn and getting lost. Second trip we tried the Upper Exum in early October and got snowed out only 200' from the summit. Third attempt we climbed the Full Exum ridge to the summit (2003)! I have since returned and summited the Upper Exum again (2006). Anything can happen in the Tetons. | |
| Posted Jul 5, 2010 12:57 am | ||
| mongoose762 | Owen Spaulding Route | |
| Like many here, went with Exum guides. Lynne wolf did a great job keeping me on track and showing me the route. Rod Newcomb also did a good job with the prep during the days before. Highly recommended. | |
| Posted Jul 4, 2010 7:06 pm | ||
| jdw10 | Grand Teton Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008 | |
| Successful Summit with Exum Guides 07/05/08 | |
| Posted Jun 29, 2010 2:08 pm | ||
| Vertigo soul | Stettner/Chevy/Ford Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010 | |
| Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit! | |
| Posted Jun 24, 2010 12:14 pm | ||
| gcap | Stettner Couloir Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010 | |
| Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy. | |
| Posted Jun 23, 2010 2:30 pm | ||
| merrill | Upper Exum Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004 | |
| First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again. | |
| Posted May 31, 2010 10:23 pm | ||
| merrill | Owen-Spaulding Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009 | |
| Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top. | |
| Posted May 31, 2010 10:20 pm | ||
| moneal | Full Exum Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010 | |
| Lower Exum is all that. | |
| Posted Apr 27, 2010 8:28 pm | ||
| reboyles | Smith-Otter Body Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973 | |
| Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle. | |
| Posted Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm | ||
| builttospill | Two Climbs, One Month Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008 | |
| August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent. August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent. | |
| Posted Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am | ||
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| merrill | Re: Two Climbs, One Month | |
| Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face. | |
| Posted May 31, 2010 10:36 pm | ||
| biz | Upper Exum Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010 | |
| Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route. | |
| Posted Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm | ||
| bryangast | Close call Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993 | |
| Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold. | |
| Posted Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm | ||
| bird | Super fun on Upper Exum Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009 | |
| Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times! | |
| Posted Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am | ||
| splattski | Upper Exum, more or less Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2009 | |
| T-shirts on the summit. Snow and ice on the OS descent. We followed two guys who had climbed it several times, but couldn't remember the exact route. Ended up on the summit anyway. Trip report | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2009 7:35 am | ||
| Yankeeriver | Direct Exum Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009 | |
| Fantastic time. Rain, hail, and all... | ||
| Posted Sep 18, 2009 7:22 pm | ||
| Brian Kalet | OS Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009 | |
| 12.5h CTC | |
| Posted Sep 14, 2009 2:48 am | ||
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