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AlpinistRoute Climbed: Pownall-Gilkey  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2003


This was my first rock climbing experience other than training. The Pownall-Gilkey route is challenging for a beginner, but attainable and quite exhilerating. It branches off from the Owens-Spaulding route and it is an enjoyable climb with several 5.4 - 5.6 pitches, and one 5.8 aided pitch. We left the JHMG base camp at 4am and were on the summit from ~10:30-11am. Clouds were already blowing in. We were socked in about 25% of the time, but fortunately were able to enjoy partial views in between clouds. My thanks to guide Evan for getting us up and back safely. It started to rain as we reached the saddle on the way down.

Sadly, some other climbers weren't so lucky. Lightening struck a climber near the summit later in the day, killing one person and injuring 5 others. We heard several helicopters coming and going high on the mountain about the time we reached the Petzold Caves and we knew something terrible had happened. My thoughts and prayers are with the deceased and her family.
Posted Jul 29, 2003 6:36 pm

SharonRoute Climbed: Upper Exum II, 5.6 Date Climbed: September 5, 1997  Sucess!


Partner: Steve Reynolds

Left Lower Saddle at 5:30 am. Reached Wall Street just after dawn. Summitted 12:15 am; crowded but very fun. Yellow ribbon for climbing friend Don Hutchings (being held hostage in Kashmir) left in summit cracks. Very lengthy wait for raps down. Back at tent /Lower Saddle at 5:00 pm. Wild thunderstorm that night.

A 74 year old mother was in the party ahead of us (Hutchison). Golden Staircase warm & beautiful & joyous to climb. Missed V-Pitch -- did a more strenuous variation.
Posted Jul 23, 2003 9:17 pm

JesseJosephRoute Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 11th, 2003  Sucess!
Awesome climb, great views and exposure, routefinding pretty straightforward. Next time I'll try it in a day!
Posted Jul 18, 2003 11:47 am

rschwi1Route Climbed: O.S. to upper exum Date Climbed: August 9, 2002  Sucess!
Great Climb. Next time wanna get a longer permit for the lower saddle and do other routes.
Posted Jun 2, 2003 12:57 pm

tonybell1Route Climbed: Direct Exum Date Climbed: July 23, 1992


Wonderful route, especially Black Face, weathered off, descended in a thunderstorm from Wall Street (not fun)
Posted Feb 26, 2003 6:17 pm

tonybell1Route Climbed: North Ridge, Italian Cracks Variation Date Climbed: August 15, 1990  Sucess!


Nice route from Grandstand, route finding below (Valhalla traverse) was not trivial
Posted Feb 26, 2003 6:14 pm

tonybell1Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: July 30, 1986  Sucess!


First time to the summit
Posted Feb 26, 2003 6:11 pm

bighurtbobRoute Climbed: Direct Exum Date Climbed: Augst 1997  Sucess!


Nice route
Posted Feb 7, 2003 1:17 pm

OregonNativeRoute Climbed: Petzoldt Ridge Date Climbed: Summer 2002  Sucess!
Climbed car to car with JZ. Finished on the Ford Couloir rather than traverse to the the Exum. The Ford was 4th class mud. I always imagined this mountain bigger than it turned out to be. We met some nice people from the Mid-West who shared the walk back to the lower saddle.
Posted Dec 1, 2002 12:00 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: The complete Exum Ridge III, 5.7 Date Climbed: July 1989  Sucess!


Bill Krause and I climbed the lower and upper Exum in 1989 from our camp at the Meadows. Great route.
Posted Nov 16, 2002 9:34 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: The North Ridge variation IV,5.9 Date Climbed: August 1991  Sucess!


In summer of 1991, Bill Krause and I climbed the classic North Ridge from Valhalla Canyon. We climbed the Italian Cracks variation(5.8) and above, added a 5.9 hand crack pitch and two 5.8 face climbing pitches to reach the top. Tom Turiano (local Guide) and the late Leigh Ortenburger called it "The North Ridge without the chimneys", but somehow it never made it into any of the Guide Books after Leigh died. We thought it was a great, clean climb, avoiding the wet chimneys of the regular North Ridge.
Posted Nov 16, 2002 9:26 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: The Complete Black Ice Couloir from Valhalla Canyon V,5.7 Date Climbed: August 1989  Sucess!


In August of 1989, Bill Krause and I climbed the complete Black Ice Couloir in a day from Valhalla Canyon. This was our second attempt on the route, having been lost on the Valhalla Traverse the year before. A great climb and great company. This is another unforgetable trip. I remember meeting Jack Tackle at the Lower Saddle and swapping lies for hours..
Posted Nov 16, 2002 9:11 pm

azalea4460Route Climbed: Owen Spaulding with Variations Date Climbed: September 10, 2002  Sucess!


After a weekend of early fall snow, our team of 5 climbed the Owen Spaulding in true alpine conditions. Reached the summit in the afternoon in gorgeous weather. Climbed the rock, snow, and ice with crampons and axe and threw in a few variations up alternate chimneys. My first experience climbing rock in crampons -- I discovered that it has its advantages on small flakes. This was part of the Exxum late summer alpine mountaineering seminar. Great experience and fun climbing.
Posted Oct 18, 2002 12:21 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: Owen Spaulding Date Climbed: August 15 1998  Sucess!


This was my fifth summit of The Grand. I love this mountain. Climbed both Exxum and Owen Spaulding. this mountain has something for everyone and always affords me the adventure I seek.
Posted Oct 5, 2002 9:39 pm

cruzitRoute Climbed: Owens Spaulding Date Climbed: July 29, 2002  Sucess!


Reached the summit on a beautiful, clear day. Thanks to my husband Alan, who told me I could. And to Dasch, Jeremey, and once again Alan, for pretending I was keeping up most of time. Finally, as alway, thanks to the mountain.
Posted Sep 24, 2002 5:59 pm

kentappenRoute Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: September 14, 2002  Sucess!
Climbed quickly with Exum Guide Brian Prax, summited around 10:00 AM. Spent 45 minutes on the summit, not a cloud in the sky, low wind and pretty warm. Descent via Owen-Spalding was slowed by a considerable amount of snow and ice. Once we put on crampons, it really expedited things. Great climb on a great mountain!
Posted Sep 18, 2002 11:04 am

JoshRoute Climbed: Direct Exum Ridge (5.7, III/IV) Date Climbed: September 15, 2002  Sucess!


Free-soloed the Direct Exum Ridge in under an hour. Down-climbing the Owen Spalding route in rock shoes was quite an adventure due to snow and ice. Trip report here.
Posted Sep 16, 2002 9:12 am

cluckRoute Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: September 4, 2002  Sucess!


Beautiful rock and fantastic views! We climbed in two days with Exum guides. Perfect weather on both days. The Upper Exum Ridge has sensational low 5th class climbing with great exposure.

We summitted at 11:30 after making several variations of the Exum Ridge including climbing to the top of Carman's Pinnacle on the west edge of the ridge and scaling a slightly overhanging 20 wall to re-gain the standard route below the Horse.

The descent down Owen Spaulding was unremarkable except for a couple icy chimneys and a sweet 120 foot rappel.
Posted Sep 11, 2002 12:52 pm

Alan EllisRoute Climbed: Owen-Spalding Date Climbed: July 29, 2002  Sucess!

Alan Ellis

Summited in perfect weather. Thanks to my wife, Jackie and also to Dasch and Jeremy from OR who we met at the Lower Saddle. You guys were great! See our trip report with photos here.
Posted Aug 25, 2002 10:40 am

Fred SpickerRoute Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: 1 Aug 1965 & 18 Aug 1970  Sucess!

Fred Spicker

1965 (age 16) with the Exum guides - took their climbing school and finally learned how to use a rope.

1970 with Bob & Kathy Schultz.
Posted Jul 25, 2002 10:11 am

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