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Granite Peak Climber's Log

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b.Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 14, 2002  Sucess!


We took our ice climbing gear for a hike up to Avalanche Lake, two days after I competed in a 20 mile ridge run in the Bridger Mountains of Montana. The glacier was severely melted out and dirty, with an ugly approach, so we backed out of the North Face plan and climbed the East Ridge. The route was fun, we stayed on the crest of the ridge the whole time, making for more interesting climbing and great views of the North side. The 5.6 chimney variation was a great treat just before the summit. From the top I spotted my next big Beartooth route, the Beckey Couloir on Glacier Peak. The goats ate the straps on my helmet while it was covering the food bag to keep the rodents away!
Posted Aug 21, 2003 1:57 pm

grandwazooRoute Climbed: Avalanche Lake Date Climbed: August 01 2002  Sucess!


Camped at the South end of Avalanche Lake first night

with the urine licking goats. Had perfect weather for all three days.

I would advise trying the Froze-To -Death-Plateau route first, the boulders are a bear. Stay near the water as much as possible until you hit 7/8 of the way around the lake.

Posted Jun 30, 2003 11:34 am

jurvmanRoute Climbed: Avalanche Lake Date Climbed: august 20, 2002  Sucess!
Boulders, Boulders, Boulders...Did I say Boulders.

The approach is the brutal part of this climb. Great campsite at Cold Lake. Plenty of company. (i.e. mountain goats.)

If anyone found a pair of Smith Mainline sunglasses at the summit or at the saddle of Mt.Tempest they're mine and I'll pay for shipping...

Thanks, Jeff


Posted Sep 17, 2002 1:42 pm

Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: September 1, 2002  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

My friend Duane and I finally returned to Granite Peak after failing to summit in 1995. It was Joel's first attempt. We approached via West Rosebud Creek and Mystic Lake this time, and were pleased with the improved scenery on this approach. We camped low on Froze-to-Death Plateau on August 30, not intending to climb on the 31st because the weather forecast sounded pretty nasty - and proved to be right. But we did move camp somewhat closer to the peak, and found much better water there. The camp is at the junction of the north and east-west spurs of the plateau. A large snowfield provides terrific water, and with a good early start the mountain is not too far away if the weather holds until after noon. That is what happened for us, except that the weather never did get "bad", although it was very windy all day, growing worse during our hike back to camp. We were behind several other parties, so route-finding was easy. Two rappels made the summit area easy to descend. All in all a terrific trip!
Posted Sep 16, 2002 7:06 pm

olsennRoute Climbed: Froze-to-death Date Climbed: 1 Aug 01  Sucess!


My wife and I left the West Rosebud/ power plant trailhead at 7:30 pm, and made camp in the dark at the top of the switchbacks at 10,000' at midnight. The next day we made it to the edge of the plateau next to Tempest at 12,080'. We contemplated an afternoon ascent if no thunderstorms developed, but opted to rest instead. Weather radio now began predicting an incoming storm, and sure enough, after a night of high winds 1-2 inches of snow covered the tent and everything above 10,000'. We waited out the next day, and that evening the skies began to clear. Most of the snow was gone by mid morning the next day. We carried one ice axe, and belayed each other across the snow bridge. Route finding was interesting even with good beta. Exposure wasn't as terrible as I expected, but we belayed across a couple sections. We summitted at noon, rappelled a few short pitches, and made a long hike out.
Posted Aug 5, 2001 7:02 pm

pictioneerRoute Climbed: Mystic Lake route Date Climbed: august 1975  Sucess!


Was a great climb. Was young and inexperienced and took no rope, so got a little dicey at top, but highly recommend this climb. The view is great. Was lucky in that we didn't have any thunderstorms roll in.
Posted Mar 25, 2001 6:14 pm

JezikahRoute Climbed: Phantom Lake Trail Date Climbed: Aug 1999  Sucess!
It was a great climb! We had wonderful weather, except for a few afternoon showers. Weather is usually the deciding factor of whether you're going to make it or not and this area is notorious for storms brewing up quickly. I know people that have made it to base camp or even part way up the mountain (several times) only for a big snowstorm or thunderstorm to move in during a matter of minutes. Most people rope up when climbing Granite, especially going across the snow bridge and the last couple hundred feet or so. But, it isn't needed and we actually didn't rope up. I just thought it was a great time and an awesome experience. And I have one down on the quest for the 50 highest points of each state. I totally recommend climbing Granite, intermediate or even fit beginners can make it, but it's fun for more experienced climbers, too.
Posted Mar 23, 2001 5:39 pm

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