I suggest for anyone wishing to avoid the loose stuff in the couloir, from the basin on the west side of the peak, go due south over the step, aiming for the "7200" mark on the USGS map, that cliff is easily ascended with a bit of route judgment. Then just walk up the SW slope to the false summit, then go through the notch. Exposure at the famous notch pretty much requires a rope, but an obvious catwalk/ledge around the notch wall makes it a cakewalk, plus there are great spots to easily sling the rope to the wall.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."