Great Beyond, 5.10

6th Pitch- 35m- 5.10/ This is the classic and most sustained pitch of the route. Follow the bolt line on a traverse up and left into the steep hand crack. The face traverse moves are via delicate varnish on sugary sandstone at the grade. Once in the crack place your .75”-2” at will if you have them. I had doubles and would rather have had triples .75”-1”. The red sandstone (not varnished) walls of the crack did not make me feel warm and fuzzy about my pro. I also had a hard time trusting any of the holds on either side (think Moab Tower climbing). Jam and maneuver your way up the crack which widens as the angle eases towards the top and onto a large ledge. Make a gear belay with a 3”, 4” and/or .5” on the right at the base of the next obvious pitch. Great Beyond, 5.10, 8 Pitches, Cerberus Gendarme, Zion National Park, September, 2010