Could you tell me a little bit about route? I've heard it's pretty exposed where Green Butte joins Sargent's. Is it true? Did you use any protection? I want to climb this route in a few weeks and would appreciate your input.
We had a fabulous time on Green Butte Ridge, lots of fun. I've not done Casaval yet so I can't really compare the two, but I think Casaval is longer but less direct/steep. The snow conditions were perfect for cramponing in the morning but about 1pm or so it got really sticky and I started balling up pretty bad. The last part of Green Butte ridge, just before it joins Sargents was definitely the steepest part of the climb but it still was only about 35 degrees or so. We did not use protection. If you climb the ridge proper, you might want to use some protection. Two in our group did try the actual ridge, and gave each other a belay or two. I think there were some 5th class moves on sketchy rock. Hope this helps! Email me if you'd like more beta.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."