OverviewSelected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies says that the Greenwood-Locke is a "must-do route" offering the safest way up the North Face.
We found it to be a loose and serious climb up a big mountain face.
Getting ThereFrom the Paradise Valley parking lot, follow the trail to Lake Annette (1.5 hours).
Route DescriptionStart up the right hand Dolphin Couloir. Up 40 degree snow for several hundred feet. At this point we found 2 pitches of ice, and then rock scrambling for another couple hundred feet until the intersection with the left hand dolphin couloir.
At this point move right and climb up the rock rib via a chimney. Step right at the top (5.7?). Move up and right over loose terrain for several hundred feet. This section is loose and has no gear to speak of, so we didn't bother roping up. From here, gain the second ice field for 2 pitches of 50 degree ice to the base of the rock climbing.
From the cave at the top of the second icefield, climb up a chimney, then work right. Gain the notorious Black Band traverse. Traverse left across the Black Band for 2 pitches (SCARY! LOOSE! NO GEAR!) and gain the rib. The rock will start to improve from this point on.
Up the rib for several pitches (see topo) until below a headwall. Traverse across a small ridge to the left facing corner. Up this, and then step right into another 5.9 crack. A poor bivy can be found here.
Continue up and gain a ledge system. Traverse right, across a gully to the top.
The decent is pretty straight forward. Traverse endless scree keeping your elevation over to the SW Ridge. Follow the ridge down to col and head toward Lake Annette and ultimately the parking lot.
Essential GearBoots, ice tools, crampons
4 screws useful
1 set nuts
1x 0.5 - #2 camalot
Knifeblades and Bugaboos would be very useful