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Greenwood Locke
Route

Greenwood Locke

 
Greenwood Locke

Page Type: Route

Location: Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Object Title: Greenwood Locke

Route Type: Mixed

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: One to two days

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: poorboy44, travelin_light

Created/Edited: Sep 6, 2006 / Mar 22, 2007

Object ID: 223407

Hits: 4979 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies says that the Greenwood-Locke is a "must-do route" offering the safest way up the North Face.

We found it to be a loose and serious climb up a big mountain face.

Greenwood/Locke,  North Face of Mount Temple
 


Getting There

From the Paradise Valley parking lot, follow the trail to Lake Annette (1.5 hours).

Route Description

Start up the right hand Dolphin Couloir. Up 40 degree snow for several hundred feet. At this point we found 2 pitches of ice, and then rock scrambling for another couple hundred feet until the intersection with the left hand dolphin couloir.

At this point move right and climb up the rock rib via a chimney. Step right at the top (5.7?). Move up and right over loose terrain for several hundred feet. This section is loose and has no gear to speak of, so we didn't bother roping up. From here, gain the second ice field for 2 pitches of 50 degree ice to the base of the rock climbing.

Climbing the second icefield
 


From the cave at the top of the second icefield, climb up a chimney, then work right. Gain the notorious Black Band traverse. Traverse left across the Black Band for 2 pitches (SCARY! LOOSE! NO GEAR!) and gain the rib. The rock will start to improve from this point on.

Black Band traverse
 


Up the rib for several pitches (see topo) until below a headwall. Traverse across a small ridge to the left facing corner. Up this, and then step right into another 5.9 crack. A poor bivy can be found here.

Continue up and gain a ledge system. Traverse right, across a gully to the top.

Good views of the North Face now
 


The decent is pretty straight forward. Traverse endless scree keeping your elevation over to the SW Ridge. Follow the ridge down to col and head toward Lake Annette and ultimately the parking lot.

Essential Gear

Boots, ice tools, crampons
4 screws useful
1 set nuts
2x TCUs
1x 0.5 - #2 camalot
Knifeblades and Bugaboos would be very useful
10 runners
bivy sack

External Links

Mt Temple Accidents Report -- Alpine Club of Canada

Images

Climbing the second icefieldGood views of the North Face nowCharles at the top of the second icefieldGreenwood/Locke,  North Face of Mount TempleGreenwood/Locke, North Face of Mount TempleNorth Face of Mount TempleBlack Band traverse
Leading across moderate ground near the top.Final traverse pitch Greenwodd/Locke, North Face of Mount TempleHigh on the North Face of Mount Temple