Grossglockner Climber's Log
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|saman||three times, but long ago|
|This peak was my first "Dreitausender". First I reached its summit on the summer of 1993 in the company of one of my brothers, my father and a friend. We slept in the old Stüdl Hütte (that time the ugly new wasn't there yet:), and ascended from the normal route.|
One year later I was there again with another team, but that time we had a storm after Adlersruhe, so we turned back.
I managed to reach the summit twice more (1997, 1999), each time on a one-day trip from Lucknerhaus, with different people. (My father and me became a sort of guides to this mountain for the citizens of our little town:)
Once we made it in heavy snowfall, but this was the only time when the summit ridge wasn't crowded and noone tried to step on our rope with crampoons. And just at the moment we reaced the top, the clouds opened for a while and we had a wanderful view to the Ködnitz valley.
|Posted Nov 24, 2008 7:51 am|
|bergnasenbaer||in the beginning|
|via normal route|
|Posted Sep 20, 2008 12:30 pm|
|Herb||From Glocknerhaus via Salm hut to Erzherzog-Johann hut and summit (normal route, PD) |
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2008
|After climbing already many mountains in the Alps and also a few in the Andes and in the Caucasus, I finally managed to climb Grossglockner (3.798 m), the highest mountain in my home country, Austria. This is the mountain you can see in the background of my user profile picture since I am an SP-member... ;o)|
I feel lucky, because it worked out in the first attempt! If you read this summit log or several trip reports, you will find out, that Grossglockner very often needs at least 2 to 3 attempts... (I know a lot of people where this applies, too. And as well for my girlfriend it was the 2nd attempt - she tried already once 14 years ago).
We had great conditions and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise during our summit ascent via Glocknerleitl (the steep glacier part before the rocky summit begins at the shoulder) and Kleinglockner after sleeping in the Erzherzog Johann hut. Less crowded than expected (because weather forecast was good and stable for the whole week).
|Posted Sep 1, 2008 7:42 am|
|martin184||Foggy climb |
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008
|Climbed via the normal route from Lucknerhutte and Johann Hutte. A great ascent, even though we were a little unlucky with the weather. The forecast was great (sun, no clouds), but actually the day was very foggy with visibility about 30 meters. The mountain was very crowded which is a pity. We planned the trip so we climb the mountain on Monday to avoid the crowds, but we did not realize that there was a national holiday in Austria.|
|Posted Aug 20, 2008 7:34 am|
|Dziku||Rute climbed: via Studlhutte, Erzherzog Johann Hutte |
Date Climbed: Nov 2, 2007
|Great conditions, beautiful views! Only me and my friends on the top. Unique trip for me.|
|Posted May 26, 2008 2:08 am|
|morceaux||Großglockner - me 2:0|
Date Climbed: Feb 16, 2008
|Another failure due to frostbite on my friend's toes. Turned around just below summit ridge, on the normal route through Adlersruhe.|
Quite sad, because we had perfect weather, just very cold and a little windy. My friend's toes had been recovered, though he lost his nails.
|Posted May 15, 2008 1:53 am|
|Troll||Skitouring - normal route |
Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2008
|Climbed via Studl Hutte in 2 beautiful days. On summit day there was clear sky, no wind. We were on the top just in shirt.|
|Posted Apr 30, 2008 4:45 am|
|Modi||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1993
|With Cesare from Erzherzog Johan Hutte with a lot of snow and with the company of a group of american soldiers.|
|Posted Mar 2, 2008 7:27 am|
|morceaux||Großglockner - me 1:0|
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007
|We decided to climb Großglockner on a beautiful clear February weekend. When arrived to Kals, and began the tour up to Stüdlhütte, the weather was so fine that we could walk in just T-shirts (!).|
We met with only a few skiers, nobody in the hut. We made fire and brew water all afternoon and evening. By the night temperature fell quickly, and soon there was -18 - -20°C outside.
We started to climb the normal route in the early morning. Everything was fine, except for the freezing cold. On Ködnitzkees only a small breeze went through. After sunrise we reached the ridge leading to the Erzherzog-Johann hütte. Here two of my friends turned around due to cold. We continued. As we got higher, wind was started to blow, and getting stronger. When we reached Erzherzog-Johann hütte, wind was fierce and the summit was totally covered by quickly roaring clouds. At this point we decided not to risk and turned around.
When we arrived back to Stüdlhütte, it began to snow.
Next time... This winter, via Pallavicinirinne.
|Posted Oct 10, 2007 3:22 am|
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2007
|Start from Salmhutte at 7:30.|
Reached 3770 m (Kleinglockner) with my friend. Turned back because we dont have rope :)
|Posted Sep 26, 2007 10:26 am|
|brade||Three times: Normal (2009), Normal-Solo (2008), Stuedlgrat (2007) |
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009
|Pallavicinirinne- 11-13 June 2009 (unsuccesfull attempt)|
Jck (Jacek) and me descended from Glockner Bivak after spending 2 stormy nights. ...no success this time.
Normal- 26 May 2009,
climbed with Natalia and Ivona after a night in EJH winterroom. Snow conditions good only before sunrise. Descent by rappels along the same route.
Normal- 26 August 2008, Solo
- climbed solo from Luckner Parking in 5hours to the summit.
Groggerrinne- 4 May 2008 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Jck (Jacek) and me tried the route, but had to get back because of really nasty snow conditions. We reached about 3300 m.
Stuedlgrat- 15 August 2007
Climbed with Jck (Jacek) who was leading all the way up. Snow conditions on rout were almost perfect. Stuedl Ridge was on my wish list for a long time. This classic route is beautiful but overcrowded. We had company of 50(!!!) other people and guides during our climb. Recomend this route as one of my best ever - it was pleasure.
Jck - Dziekuje za uratowanie zycia.
Jck - Thank you for saving my ass.
|Posted Aug 18, 2007 2:42 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
|Climb the stuedleridge, great climb!!|
|Posted Aug 4, 2007 3:04 pm|
|Dries Desmet||Grossglockner Normal route |
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2007
|Very nice and impressive route. The Grossglockner is a beautiful mountain, everyone has to climb the Glockner once in his lifetime!!! It was also very nice weather and the conditions were very good.|
|Posted Jul 24, 2007 1:32 pm|
|mvs||Route climbed: Stuedlgrat |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007
|We left the car at 6:30 am, and were at the Steudlhuette at 8 am for a nice breakfast. On the summit at 2:00, and back at the car at 8:30 pm. Really fun climb and beautiful weather. The only gripe was that I had an altitude headache and a bit of nausea until we got down a ways.|
|Posted Jul 16, 2007 4:03 am|
|marlenka||Almost Erzherzog-Johann Hütte|
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007
|I want to try it again soon when the wind and cold won't get me turned back.|
|Posted Feb 21, 2007 4:26 pm|
|julesblaidd||Grossglockner vs me: 2:0|
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007
|Because of heavy wind we have to turn back from Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. I hope I can climb this mountain in this life. :-)|
|Posted Feb 12, 2007 7:47 pm|
Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2005
|Very big snow was fallen we had to turn back from Stüdlhütte. Next time...|
|Posted Jan 3, 2007 8:26 am|
Date Climbed: Oct 27, 2006
|Climbed Glockner via the Stuedlgrat after arriving at the Lucknerhaus around 8am, packing up and making it to the base of the climb at 12:30pm. Since we were slow due to no acclimatizatin we made the summit at 7pm using headlamps, and rappeled off the mountain for safety reasons. Dead tired made it to the Johann hutte around 11:30pm and stayed there for the night on a bench. Great climb!! Would have been better if we had done some acclimatization.|
|Posted Oct 29, 2006 12:40 pm|
|Mile Bosnjakovski||Klein-Glockner 3770m|
Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2006
|CLimbing on a beutifull day until some time than conditions becomes prety bad near the main peak, so it is going to stay for a better times. However me and my friend Zoran (guide) climb Klein-Glockner.|
|Posted Oct 27, 2006 7:48 am|
|Damir Mesec||Rute climbed: via Studlhutte, Erzherzog Johann Hutte than summit.. |
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2006
I summitted this peak with my good friend Boris. The climb was a little bit difficult because of fresh snow. rock UIAA II, ice and snow 45 degree. On some part very exposed and dangerous. The final climb from Erzherzog Johann Hutte to the summit takes 3 and half hours of climbing. Beautiful view at the summit.
|Posted Oct 2, 2006 7:58 am|