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Grossglockner Climber's Log

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fubar7500Top of Austria  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2009


Short sleep in tent next to Studlhutte. Clear blue sky, sunny and windy in the morning. Amazing summit!
Posted Mar 1, 2010 4:18 pm

project360Highest point in Austria  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2009


Beautiful climb to start the European adventure... Highest point in Austria
Posted Oct 14, 2009 11:23 pm

Martina MarmoškaNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009
We went by Normal route, during the way on the glacier was storm and hailing but on the summit part from Erz.Johann Hütte we were luxury weather. Very nice.
Posted Aug 4, 2009 5:24 am

Ivona2 times-normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009


First time 1st of May 2007- unsuccesfull attempt

Second time a few days ago;)) 26th of May 2009 with great company of my climbing friend Natalia and Radek(Brade).Beautiful mountain worth of coming back...
Posted Jun 2, 2009 6:36 pm

WouterBRe: Grossglockner Normal route


All my pictures can be found here:
Posted Jun 2, 2009 4:13 am

Luciano136Re: Grossglockner Normal route


So where are the pics?? :)
Posted Jun 1, 2009 2:50 pm

WouterBGrossglockner Normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 23, 2009


21st of may up to Stuedlhutte
22nd of may with snowshoes to Stuedlgrat (climbed it without the intention to go high, and without rope up untill the yellow bench).
23rd of may from Stuedlhutte in about 3 hours to the summit. We didn't pass Erzhog Johan, but chose to climb the gletsjer up intill it's highest point.
Posted May 25, 2009 6:34 am

flowGroßglockner, 3.798m  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 17, 2009


16th May from Lucknerhaus 1.918m to Stüdelhütte 2.802m
17th May Stüdelhütte - Großglockner 3.798m - Hoffmannskees - Franz-Josefs-Hoehe 2.369m.

1st try last year at about the same time. Made the trip "once around Glockner" (Oberwalderhut-Teufelskampkees-Luisenscharte-Adlersruhe), but had to go down from Adlersruhe at 12.15h because of very bad weather (fog).
Posted May 17, 2009 5:50 pm

MackoSNormal route  Sucess!


Posted Feb 24, 2009 12:14 pm

samanthree times, but long ago  Sucess!


This peak was my first "Dreitausender". First I reached its summit on the summer of 1993 in the company of one of my brothers, my father and a friend. We slept in the old Stüdl Hütte (that time the ugly new wasn't there yet:), and ascended from the normal route.

One year later I was there again with another team, but that time we had a storm after Adlersruhe, so we turned back.
I managed to reach the summit twice more (1997, 1999), each time on a one-day trip from Lucknerhaus, with different people. (My father and me became a sort of guides to this mountain for the citizens of our little town:)

Once we made it in heavy snowfall, but this was the only time when the summit ridge wasn't crowded and noone tried to step on our rope with crampoons. And just at the moment we reaced the top, the clouds opened for a while and we had a wanderful view to the Ködnitz valley.
Posted Nov 24, 2008 7:51 am

bergnasenbaerin the beginning  Sucess!


via normal route
Posted Sep 20, 2008 12:30 pm

HerbFrom Glocknerhaus via Salm hut to Erzherzog-Johann hut and summit (normal route, PD)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2008


After climbing already many mountains in the Alps and also a few in the Andes and in the Caucasus, I finally managed to climb Grossglockner (3.798 m), the highest mountain in my home country, Austria. This is the mountain you can see in the background of my user profile picture since I am an SP-member... ;o)

I feel lucky, because it worked out in the first attempt! If you read this summit log or several trip reports, you will find out, that Grossglockner very often needs at least 2 to 3 attempts... (I know a lot of people where this applies, too. And as well for my girlfriend it was the 2nd attempt - she tried already once 14 years ago).
We had great conditions and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise during our summit ascent via Glocknerleitl (the steep glacier part before the rocky summit begins at the shoulder) and Kleinglockner after sleeping in the Erzherzog Johann hut. Less crowded than expected (because weather forecast was good and stable for the whole week).
Posted Sep 1, 2008 7:42 am

martin184Foggy climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008


Climbed via the normal route from Lucknerhutte and Johann Hutte. A great ascent, even though we were a little unlucky with the weather. The forecast was great (sun, no clouds), but actually the day was very foggy with visibility about 30 meters. The mountain was very crowded which is a pity. We planned the trip so we climb the mountain on Monday to avoid the crowds, but we did not realize that there was a national holiday in Austria.
Posted Aug 20, 2008 7:34 am

DzikuRute climbed: via Studlhutte, Erzherzog Johann Hutte  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 2, 2007


Great conditions, beautiful views! Only me and my friends on the top. Unique trip for me.
Posted May 26, 2008 2:08 am

morceauxGroßglockner - me 2:0
Date Climbed: Feb 16, 2008


Another failure due to frostbite on my friend's toes. Turned around just below summit ridge, on the normal route through Adlersruhe.
Quite sad, because we had perfect weather, just very cold and a little windy. My friend's toes had been recovered, though he lost his nails.
Posted May 15, 2008 1:53 am

TrollSkitouring - normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2008


Climbed via Studl Hutte in 2 beautiful days. On summit day there was clear sky, no wind. We were on the top just in shirt.
Posted Apr 30, 2008 4:45 am

ModiNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1993


With Cesare from Erzherzog Johan Hutte with a lot of snow and with the company of a group of american soldiers.
Posted Mar 2, 2008 7:27 am

morceauxGroßglockner - me 1:0
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007


We decided to climb Großglockner on a beautiful clear February weekend. When arrived to Kals, and began the tour up to Stüdlhütte, the weather was so fine that we could walk in just T-shirts (!).
We met with only a few skiers, nobody in the hut. We made fire and brew water all afternoon and evening. By the night temperature fell quickly, and soon there was -18 - -20°C outside.
We started to climb the normal route in the early morning. Everything was fine, except for the freezing cold. On Ködnitzkees only a small breeze went through. After sunrise we reached the ridge leading to the Erzherzog-Johann hütte. Here two of my friends turned around due to cold. We continued. As we got higher, wind was started to blow, and getting stronger. When we reached Erzherzog-Johann hütte, wind was fierce and the summit was totally covered by quickly roaring clouds. At this point we decided not to risk and turned around.
When we arrived back to Stüdlhütte, it began to snow.
Next time... This winter, via Pallavicinirinne.
Posted Oct 10, 2007 3:22 am

codelancerfrom Salmhutte
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2007


Start from Salmhutte at 7:30.
Reached 3770 m (Kleinglockner) with my friend. Turned back because we dont have rope :)
Posted Sep 26, 2007 10:26 am

bradeThree times: Normal (2009), Normal-Solo (2008), Stuedlgrat (2007)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009


Pallavicinirinne- 11-13 June 2009 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Jck (Jacek) and me descended from Glockner Bivak after spending 2 stormy nights. ...no success this time.

Normal- 26 May 2009,
climbed with Natalia and Ivona after a night in EJH winterroom. Snow conditions good only before sunrise. Descent by rappels along the same route.

Normal- 26 August 2008, Solo
- climbed solo from Luckner Parking in 5hours to the summit.

Groggerrinne- 4 May 2008 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Jck (Jacek) and me tried the route, but had to get back because of really nasty snow conditions. We reached about 3300 m.

Stuedlgrat- 15 August 2007
Climbed with Jck (Jacek) who was leading all the way up. Snow conditions on rout were almost perfect. Stuedl Ridge was on my wish list for a long time. This classic route is beautiful but overcrowded. We had company of 50(!!!) other people and guides during our climb. Recomend this route as one of my best ever - it was pleasure.

Jck - Dziekuje za uratowanie zycia.
Jck - Thank you for saving my ass.
Posted Aug 18, 2007 2:42 pm

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