Grossglockner Climber's Log
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|brade||Three times: Normal (2009), Normal-Solo (2008), Stuedlgrat (2007) |
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009
|Pallavicinirinne- 11-13 June 2009 (unsuccesfull attempt)|
Jck (Jacek) and me descended from Glockner Bivak after spending 2 stormy nights. ...no success this time.
Normal- 26 May 2009,
climbed with Natalia and Ivona after a night in EJH winterroom. Snow conditions good only before sunrise. Descent by rappels along the same route.
Normal- 26 August 2008, Solo
- climbed solo from Luckner Parking in 5hours to the summit.
Groggerrinne- 4 May 2008 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Jck (Jacek) and me tried the route, but had to get back because of really nasty snow conditions. We reached about 3300 m.
Stuedlgrat- 15 August 2007
Climbed with Jck (Jacek) who was leading all the way up. Snow conditions on rout were almost perfect. Stuedl Ridge was on my wish list for a long time. This classic route is beautiful but overcrowded. We had company of 50(!!!) other people and guides during our climb. Recomend this route as one of my best ever - it was pleasure.
Jck - Dziekuje za uratowanie zycia.
Jck - Thank you for saving my ass.
|Posted Aug 18, 2007 2:42 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
|Climb the stuedleridge, great climb!!|
|Posted Aug 4, 2007 3:04 pm|
|Dries Desmet||Grossglockner Normal route |
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2007
|Very nice and impressive route. The Grossglockner is a beautiful mountain, everyone has to climb the Glockner once in his lifetime!!! It was also very nice weather and the conditions were very good.|
|Posted Jul 24, 2007 1:32 pm|
|mvs||Route climbed: Stuedlgrat |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007
|We left the car at 6:30 am, and were at the Steudlhuette at 8 am for a nice breakfast. On the summit at 2:00, and back at the car at 8:30 pm. Really fun climb and beautiful weather. The only gripe was that I had an altitude headache and a bit of nausea until we got down a ways.|
|Posted Jul 16, 2007 4:03 am|
|marlenka||Almost Erzherzog-Johann Hütte|
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007
|I want to try it again soon when the wind and cold won't get me turned back.|
|Posted Feb 21, 2007 4:26 pm|
|julesblaidd||Grossglockner vs me: 2:0|
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007
|Because of heavy wind we have to turn back from Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. I hope I can climb this mountain in this life. :-)|
|Posted Feb 12, 2007 7:47 pm|
|Mile Bosnjakovski||Klein-Glockner 3770m|
Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2006
|CLimbing on a beutifull day until some time than conditions becomes prety bad near the main peak, so it is going to stay for a better times. However me and my friend Zoran (guide) climb Klein-Glockner.|
|Posted Oct 27, 2006 7:48 am|
|Lubos||Erzherzog Johann Hutte |
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1986
|I climbed this route via Erzherzög Johann Hütte in 1986. It is a great glacier travel route but must be very crowded these days. Accessible for almost everybody with some mountaineering experience. Solo climb.|
|Posted Aug 16, 2006 2:30 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006
|Climbed via the normal route on a guided trip. We moved FAST past the roped parties. "Don´t sleep on the mountain" our guide told other climbers as they struggled up. Being short roped our party moved faster, although it didn´t feel 100% safe. But it was cool. After this I would not have a problem going up solo on a good weather day.|
|Posted Jul 21, 2006 5:24 pm|
|Dan Bailey||route: normal|
|Beautiful easy route on a beautiful mountain. Shame about the crowds, but with a route this good on such a major peak what would you expect? Get up early - we had the summit to ourselves for ages before the next groups arrived.|
|Posted Jul 19, 2006 2:38 pm|
|Joerg Marretsch||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2006
|Good climb, good snow conditions. Unfortunately no view to the surrounding (summit in clouds and sometimes strong wind). Only a few persons at Normal Route.|
|Posted Jun 26, 2006 10:07 pm|
|Climbed Mayerlrampe from Franz-Josefs-Höhe, had to descend via Bergler-Rinne.|
|Posted May 30, 2006 3:42 pm|
|tuan walter||Grossglockner In One Day |
Date Climbed: May 1, 2006
|Route climbed: standard ski route, i.e. from the car park near Lucknerhaus (1,918 m) via Lucknerhuette (2,241 m) and Koednitzkees to the Glocknerleitl (6 hours) + standard route to the summit, i.e. via Glocknerleitl, Kleinglockner, and Obere Glocknerscharte |
Great ski tour and climb with Wolfgang! We did it all in one day: 3 hours drive from Schwaz - 6 hours ascent to the Glocknerleitl, where we left the skis - half an hour's rest - 2,5 hours climb to the top.
If you do the final ascent to the top in the afternoon, the crowd has already left and there is no jam at Obere Glocknerscharte.
|Posted May 1, 2006 10:23 pm|
|landroval||skiing hard |
Date Climbed: Apr 9, 2006
|This peak has a frightening "presence": tough, shaped, massive... it crawls in your mind and behind your eyes and its image is fixed in your memories forever.|
Amazing, wonderful day.
|Posted Apr 10, 2006 1:42 pm|
|taikavuorimies||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 12 August 2005|
|The route was crowded, especially on the final ridge. Ropes got tangled quite often. It was cloudy most of the time but the wind was not particularly strong. We had to take the route through Salmhuette because the upper glacier was in pretty bad condition, with lots of open crevasses.|
|Posted Dec 23, 2005 4:19 am|
|Sebastian Hamm||Route Climbed: Normal Route via Erzherzog Johann Hut and Stuedl-Hut Date Climbed: 24th August 2005|
|Great climbing, we reach the summit on sunset and avert so the big wave of mountaineers in the morning. Great snow-conditions despite the heavy rainfall in austria these days with the big flood in Aug05.|
|Posted Dec 19, 2005 3:25 pm|
|albertofanga||Route Climbed: from Stuedelhuette Date Climbed: August 16, 2004|
|Very good climbing, we reach the peak from the hut in three hours, not bad. Stuedelhutte is graet and the food excellent!|
|Posted Nov 6, 2005 1:03 pm|
|Tomasz Jazwinski||Route Climbed: Kals - Stuedlhuette - Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte - summit Date Climbed: May 20th, 2004|
|Start at 7 a.m. after the night in Stuedlhuette. Over Koednitz Kees to Erzherzog-Johann-Huette. Then a little break and walk up to the summit. On the suumit at about 5 p.m., later overgnight in Erzherzog-Johann-Huette. On the day of ascent a really lovely waether up to sunset. During the descent on May 21st fog, clouds, later snow and rain.|
|Posted Nov 4, 2005 10:14 am|
|roadmountain||Route Climbed: Berglerrinne Date Climbed: 20 october 2005|
|With good conditions I climbed with Carly and Bart the Berglerinne. On the ridge the conditions were hard! Much snow, so that took us a lot of time. A great climb!|
|Posted Oct 29, 2005 5:52 am|
|jck||Five times:Normal (2008), Gröger-Rinne (2010), Normal (2008), Stuedlgrat (2007), Hoffmansweg (2005)|
|Been on the top four times. Had also two unsuccesfull attempts.|
Normal- 24 September 2012
T-storm around EJH. Bad weather made the summit ridge not really crowded. Glocknerleitl filled with mud... No views from the top.
Gröger-Rinne- 14 October 2010
Radek (brade) and me finally climbed the route in perfect weather. Some icy and rocky passages in the couloir itself, good snow conditions on the traverse. Topped out following the North-West ridge: snow cover made some passages a little bit more exciting. Generally: more difficult than Stuedlgrat, worth recommendation.
Pallavicinirinne- 11-13 June 2009 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Radek (brade) and me reached to Glockner Bivak after 7 hours of climbing. Deep snow, no traces, crevasses. Spent two nights in the bivak with some tries to reach to base of the couloir. Descended to FJH in snowstorm on saturday morning.
Normal from Stuedl Hut (ski route)- 4 May 2008
Climbed the route solo, following the skiers. Tiring because of melted snow /much easier with skies/. Suprisingly good conditions on the summit ridge: didn't use the rope I had in my backpack, only crampones and two ice axes.
Gröger-Rinne- 4 May 2008 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Radek (brade) and me tried the route, but had to get back because of really nasty snow conditions. We reached about 3300 m. Later that day I got down and climbed the normal route.
Stuedlgrat- 15 August 2007
Climbed with Radek (brade). Fantastic route, solid rock, good snow conditions. Very overcrowded- about 50 people climbing the ridge, many parties shouldn't be there. Guides take people who even don't know how to use a rope- horrible (if they are above you try to overcome them as fast as possible!). Spent much time waiting. Very bad snow conditions in Glocknerteil (muddy- never been so filthy), to many people- very dangerous!
Overall- superb but the crowds kill the fun of climbing.
Hoffmansweg- 12 August 2005
We left Hoffmanhutte about midday and in the afternoon reached Erzherzog Johann Hutte and there spent a night in tent-it's forbidden but we climbed a little above the hut and there it was no problem. After snowy and cold night we reached the summit about 9 am in great weather. Summit ridge was very crowded- spent much time waiting. Descending the same route.
|Posted Sep 21, 2005 12:09 pm|