Grossglockner Climber's Log
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Date Climbed: Oct 27, 2006
|Climbed Glockner via the Stuedlgrat after arriving at the Lucknerhaus around 8am, packing up and making it to the base of the climb at 12:30pm. Since we were slow due to no acclimatizatin we made the summit at 7pm using headlamps, and rappeled off the mountain for safety reasons. Dead tired made it to the Johann hutte around 11:30pm and stayed there for the night on a bench. Great climb!! Would have been better if we had done some acclimatization.|
|Posted Oct 29, 2006 12:40 pm|
|Mile Bosnjakovski||Klein-Glockner 3770m|
Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2006
|CLimbing on a beutifull day until some time than conditions becomes prety bad near the main peak, so it is going to stay for a better times. However me and my friend Zoran (guide) climb Klein-Glockner.|
|Posted Oct 27, 2006 7:48 am|
|Damir Mesec||Rute climbed: via Studlhutte, Erzherzog Johann Hutte than summit.. |
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2006
I summitted this peak with my good friend Boris. The climb was a little bit difficult because of fresh snow. rock UIAA II, ice and snow 45 degree. On some part very exposed and dangerous. The final climb from Erzherzog Johann Hutte to the summit takes 3 and half hours of climbing. Beautiful view at the summit.
|Posted Oct 2, 2006 7:58 am|
|Lubos||Erzherzog Johann Hutte |
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1986
|I climbed this route via Erzherzög Johann Hütte in 1986. It is a great glacier travel route but must be very crowded these days. Accessible for almost everybody with some mountaineering experience. Solo climb.|
|Posted Aug 16, 2006 2:30 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006
|Climbed via the normal route on a guided trip. We moved FAST past the roped parties. "Don´t sleep on the mountain" our guide told other climbers as they struggled up. Being short roped our party moved faster, although it didn´t feel 100% safe. But it was cool. After this I would not have a problem going up solo on a good weather day.|
|Posted Jul 21, 2006 5:24 pm|
|Dan Bailey||route: normal|
|Beautiful easy route on a beautiful mountain. Shame about the crowds, but with a route this good on such a major peak what would you expect? Get up early - we had the summit to ourselves for ages before the next groups arrived.|
|Posted Jul 19, 2006 2:38 pm|
|Joerg Marretsch||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2006
|Good climb, good snow conditions. Unfortunately no view to the surrounding (summit in clouds and sometimes strong wind). Only a few persons at Normal Route.|
|Posted Jun 26, 2006 10:07 pm|
|Climbed Mayerlrampe from Franz-Josefs-Höhe, had to descend via Bergler-Rinne.|
|Posted May 30, 2006 3:42 pm|
|tuan walter||Grossglockner In One Day |
Date Climbed: May 1, 2006
|Route climbed: standard ski route, i.e. from the car park near Lucknerhaus (1,918 m) via Lucknerhuette (2,241 m) and Koednitzkees to the Glocknerleitl (6 hours) + standard route to the summit, i.e. via Glocknerleitl, Kleinglockner, and Obere Glocknerscharte |
Great ski tour and climb with Wolfgang! We did it all in one day: 3 hours drive from Schwaz - 6 hours ascent to the Glocknerleitl, where we left the skis - half an hour's rest - 2,5 hours climb to the top.
If you do the final ascent to the top in the afternoon, the crowd has already left and there is no jam at Obere Glocknerscharte.
|Posted May 1, 2006 10:23 pm|
|landroval||skiing hard |
Date Climbed: Apr 9, 2006
|This peak has a frightening "presence": tough, shaped, massive... it crawls in your mind and behind your eyes and its image is fixed in your memories forever.|
Amazing, wonderful day.
|Posted Apr 10, 2006 1:42 pm|
|taikavuorimies||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 12 August 2005|
|The route was crowded, especially on the final ridge. Ropes got tangled quite often. It was cloudy most of the time but the wind was not particularly strong. We had to take the route through Salmhuette because the upper glacier was in pretty bad condition, with lots of open crevasses.|
|Posted Dec 23, 2005 4:19 am|
|Sebastian Hamm||Route Climbed: Normal Route via Erzherzog Johann Hut and Stuedl-Hut Date Climbed: 24th August 2005|
|Great climbing, we reach the summit on sunset and avert so the big wave of mountaineers in the morning. Great snow-conditions despite the heavy rainfall in austria these days with the big flood in Aug05.|
|Posted Dec 19, 2005 3:25 pm|
|albertofanga||Route Climbed: from Stuedelhuette Date Climbed: August 16, 2004|
|Very good climbing, we reach the peak from the hut in three hours, not bad. Stuedelhutte is graet and the food excellent!|
|Posted Nov 6, 2005 1:03 pm|
|Tomasz Jazwinski||Route Climbed: Kals - Stuedlhuette - Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte - summit Date Climbed: May 20th, 2004|
|Start at 7 a.m. after the night in Stuedlhuette. Over Koednitz Kees to Erzherzog-Johann-Huette. Then a little break and walk up to the summit. On the suumit at about 5 p.m., later overgnight in Erzherzog-Johann-Huette. On the day of ascent a really lovely waether up to sunset. During the descent on May 21st fog, clouds, later snow and rain.|
|Posted Nov 4, 2005 10:14 am|
|roadmountain||Route Climbed: Berglerrinne Date Climbed: 20 october 2005|
|With good conditions I climbed with Carly and Bart the Berglerinne. On the ridge the conditions were hard! Much snow, so that took us a lot of time. A great climb!|
|Posted Oct 29, 2005 5:52 am|
|jck||Five times:Normal (2008), Gröger-Rinne (2010), Normal (2008), Stuedlgrat (2007), Hoffmansweg (2005)|
|Been on the top four times. Had also two unsuccesfull attempts.|
Normal- 24 September 2012
T-storm around EJH. Bad weather made the summit ridge not really crowded. Glocknerleitl filled with mud... No views from the top.
Gröger-Rinne- 14 October 2010
Radek (brade) and me finally climbed the route in perfect weather. Some icy and rocky passages in the couloir itself, good snow conditions on the traverse. Topped out following the North-West ridge: snow cover made some passages a little bit more exciting. Generally: more difficult than Stuedlgrat, worth recommendation.
Pallavicinirinne- 11-13 June 2009 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Radek (brade) and me reached to Glockner Bivak after 7 hours of climbing. Deep snow, no traces, crevasses. Spent two nights in the bivak with some tries to reach to base of the couloir. Descended to FJH in snowstorm on saturday morning.
Normal from Stuedl Hut (ski route)- 4 May 2008
Climbed the route solo, following the skiers. Tiring because of melted snow /much easier with skies/. Suprisingly good conditions on the summit ridge: didn't use the rope I had in my backpack, only crampones and two ice axes.
Gröger-Rinne- 4 May 2008 (unsuccesfull attempt)
Radek (brade) and me tried the route, but had to get back because of really nasty snow conditions. We reached about 3300 m. Later that day I got down and climbed the normal route.
Stuedlgrat- 15 August 2007
Climbed with Radek (brade). Fantastic route, solid rock, good snow conditions. Very overcrowded- about 50 people climbing the ridge, many parties shouldn't be there. Guides take people who even don't know how to use a rope- horrible (if they are above you try to overcome them as fast as possible!). Spent much time waiting. Very bad snow conditions in Glocknerteil (muddy- never been so filthy), to many people- very dangerous!
Overall- superb but the crowds kill the fun of climbing.
Hoffmansweg- 12 August 2005
We left Hoffmanhutte about midday and in the afternoon reached Erzherzog Johann Hutte and there spent a night in tent-it's forbidden but we climbed a little above the hut and there it was no problem. After snowy and cold night we reached the summit about 9 am in great weather. Summit ridge was very crowded- spent much time waiting. Descending the same route.
|Posted Sep 21, 2005 12:09 pm|
|aquariusz||Route Climbed: Normal route from Kals Date Climbed: 2005 june|
|I climbed the peak with one of my friend from Kals in two days. Due to bad weather and my aching knee we tented on the glacier below the Erherzog Johannes Hütte and on the next day we reached the peak. It is a beautiful route and mountain so I can recommend it to everyone :)|
|Posted Sep 15, 2005 3:29 am|
|pino||Route Climbed: Glocknerkamp Date Climbed: 3 September 2005|
|One of the most interesting climbs I ever made - valley glacier, steep ascending on morrain, glacier again, some snow, few beers in at Erzherzog-Johann hutte, some nice and easy climbing and there we were :-))|
Beautiful weather, picturesque views from the top.
Descending via Leitertal - long, tiring but beautiful.
The only negative experience - austrian guides rushing unexperienced and tired hikers near the summit along our group with stupid comments (to us), traffic jams near the summit.
|Posted Sep 14, 2005 6:07 am|
|avidwanderer||Route Climbed: Stuedlgrat Date Climbed: 29 JULy 05|
|Good climb, soft snow on the decent.|
|Posted Aug 1, 2005 9:15 am|
|Farmer||Route Climbed: Studlgrat Date Climbed: june 2005|
|Very nice route, when there are not to many people in it. Descending the normal route is terrible, its busier then the traffic around Munich at 8.00 o'clock!!!!! |
|Posted Jun 28, 2005 2:28 pm|