Guppy (5.8+)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Additional Information Route Type: Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 1
Additional Information Grade: I
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Cleaning Guppy
crowded
Located in Clear Creek Canyon, this route can be found on the buttress section of the ‘Creekside’ wall. This area is only accessible via a tyrolean traverse dubbed ‘High Tryol’. Placed between a cottonwood tree and a very cozy little belay nook. Part of the fun of this climb is getting to the wall. This area includes a mixed trad/sport route (a possible 2 pitches); two, one pitch sport routes; and one, two pitch sport route. During summer afternoons this wall (except for the Rhett Wretch belay area) is in the shade.

Getting There

Take U.S. 6 (west at the light) from Golden for around 12.5 miles, in between tunnel 5 and tunnel 6. There is a parking area on the west bound side of the road just before you reach the buttress. Don’t get confused here because tunnel 4 is no longer used.

FA

Guppy (5.8+)
Darren Mabe was the first to put up sport routes in this area and is credited with creating this route in 2005.

Route Description

Fun on High Tyrol
This is one of the best sport routes in the canyon and maybe in the Front Range and the getting there only adds to the fun. But be aware that you will climb slower here than just about anywhere else due to the ‘coziness’ of the area. Guppy starts left of the belay pod and cruises all the way up to the large overhanging roof. While the first bolt isn’t hard make sure you don’t fall because you’ll end up rolling down the river! Climb up to the first of several very small ‘overhangs’ (they are more like large bumps) this is probably the crux, but has a nice little finger crack. Continue climbing over a plethora of jugs (the most I have seen on a route) and finish on a two bolt anchor. This is a 115ft foot pitch YOU HAVE TO HAVE A 70 METER.

Essential Gear

Rappin
A 70 meter rope…no less!
13 draws plus 2 for Anchors
A lot of other gear so you can hang out and place protection for those not climbing
Some toy ‘not for climbing’ carabineers that you don’t mind leaving behind (see if you can figure out why:) )

External Links

Check it out on mountain project too see what people are saying

Darren Mabe has a new CCC book out good info and pics to take with you! LINK TEXT HERE


Geography