ApproachesSee mainpage for trailheads and trails to Dinwoody moraine.
From Dinwoody moraine, contour south up east edge of the glacier to reach Elsie Col. The route goes through a crevassed section of the glacier.
L to R: Sunbeam Peak, Backpackers Col, Turret, Elsie Col, Warren.
(Wentworth, C.K.; 1930. American Geographical Society. Boulder, CO: National Snow and Ice Data Center. Digital Media).
Route DescriptionThe east face would be Class 3 if it weren't for a vertical section at 13,200'. Likely the safest and most expedient way to gain the face is to take the ramp/couloir system that parallels the east face, along the edge of the north face, starting just below and north of Elsie Col. This ramp was first led by Henry Hall (see main page).
There is a step that must be gained at easy 5 that may have some ice early in the season. Above, the terrain is easier. If the snow is crossed, you can reach a sunnier rib on the right and climb it to the summit at Class 3/4. Depending on conditions, you can stay on the snow.
Picture looking down the ramp from the top: